What is the correct torque specifications for the screws for Ruger 10/22 V-block screws?
Acquired a spare barrel from a friend and want to know what torque spec to use as recommended by the factory.
I prefer not to use German torque....a.k.a. "Good-n-tight".
Thx
How about a small dab of model airplane glue on the threads?
Cheaper than Loc-Tite, will hold the screw in place and the seal can be easily broken with a moderate turn of the wrist with the screw driver.
Thoughts?
I bought a case of 1965 vintage Chinese steel core ammo (the type we used to be able to get real cheap back in the early 90's) second hand about a year ago. All of the ammo in the 550 round sealed metal can is on 10 round stripper clips....got more stripper clips than I know what to do with...
Bring a bottle of Windex to the range with you and spray it down the barrel thru the receiver when you are thru for the day after removing the bolt and let it flow out the end of the barrel. I rotate the gun to ensure all of the barrel gets washed/rinsed clean. Do it when the barrel is still...
Maybe I'm missing something as a newbie but who cares if there is a lite coat of lead oxide on the balls? What's the down side if you leave it on from a performance perspective?
Are there any potential health issues with handling balls with powdered lead oxide on them from an exposure...
I loaded and fired 6 cylinders worth from my 1851 Pietta Navy and with 30 grains of powder, wad and ball there was still enough room/gap to cover the cylinder chambers with Crisco. Not even close to maxing out the available space.
My 12 year old shot it w/o a problem and was dropping steel...
Mr. Trooper:
As noted in my original post, I have fired many 10/22 albeit not this one. The functionality of the gun was not the intent behind my post but the fit and finish specifically my observation regarding a perceived inordinate use of plastic as compared to previous models I have...
Well looks like my initial concern was unfounded after reading the Brimstone article posted above by SilicoSys4.
Will provide a range report after we take her out. As always, this forum provided a wealth of info and is appreciated.
BT
NNNN
Thanks SleazyRider. That's exactly the type of feedback and insight I was hoping to gain from the forum. Your reply was most helpful.
Seems like these rifles have quite a following and I am looking fwd to joining the ranks.
I purchased a new Ruger 10/22 for my son tonight for Christmas. I never owned one but have shot plenty and have known many who have and was pretty sure I was gong to get a high quality fire arm.
When I got home I realized the butt plate was - plastic....the barrel ring on the fore end was -...
Found this post a while back on a different thread:
"I read somewhere about using alcohol swabs (available in your local drug store) to swab the bore after two or three shots to keep the fouling down. The swabs remove a lot of the fouling making it easier to load the rifle. I also found that...
Fiberglass is abrasive to steel...I had no idea...thought I was pretty smart but looks like I should go back to the oak dowel I had been using...too bad... the fiberglass rod came out pretty sweet.
So my oak 5/16" diameter ram rod for my KY long rifle broke and I wanted to make a new one.
Went to Lowes and tried to find a 5/16" aluminum rod as a replacement for the oak shaft...no joy...they had 1/4" and 3/8" diameter only :banghead:
As I was walking down the aisle, I saw some...
"The “new” .38 Bodyguard is part of the current Military & Police series, and assigned the model number BG38. It has an enclosed hammer and is DAO. Also a built in laser sight and the cylinder latch is on the top, not the frame’s left side."
Yup...this is the one I am talking about...
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