13.7" vs 12.5" vs 11.5"

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I’ve described here thoroughly why I find P&W wanting.

In this case, we’re still looking for vaporware to make a shorter, lighter, more rearward balanced rifle.
Who's "we" here? If I can make a rifle balance without tipping over on it's magazine using a pmag and a mag pod, it's balanced perfectly and those are the rifles that handles the best in my experience. Two gun matches, classes, splits on drills, shot recovery, etc.
 
In this case, we’re still looking for vaporware to make a shorter, lighter, more rearward balanced rifle.
Is your ego really that fragile to deny my gun exists lol.
Griffin has at least 3 cans that swallow their long mounts that add 4" or less to the length of their long mounts.
My suppressor PICTURED on the first page is a Torrent T9k and would only add 3.5" to the oal
 
Is your ego really that fragile to deny my gun exists lol.
Griffin has at least 3 cans that swallow their long mounts that add 4" or less to the length of their long mounts.
My suppressor PICTURED on the first page is a Torrent T9k and would only add 3.5" to the oal

I haven’t bought the Griffin Armament cans - and you’re doing it on a longer barrel than the OP asked for… where’s the 13.7” compatible version? Vaporware.

But as I’ve said many times in this thread, you’ve painted yourself into a corner then with that ONE maker. Hopefully they’re everything you dream them to be.

By the time you monkey around with whatever brake makes length and the specific suppressors which would be compatible with it, you’ve painted yourself into a corner

That T9k is a 9mm can - what’s the measured reduction for 5.56 from a 13.7” barrel? Are we moving the goalpost to pistol cans now instead of the 5.56 the OP asked about?
 
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I haven’t bought the Griffin Armament cans - and you’re doing it on a longer barrel than the OP asked for… where’s the 13.7” compatible version?
And as I pointed out he's probably better off with a 14.5" if he truly wants a shorter OAL
A 13.7" with Keymo mount and muzzle device would be about the same if not longer OAL as a 14.5" with a Griffin Plan A and a Griffin flash comp.
But as I’ve said many times in this thread, you’ve painted yourself into a corner then with that ONE maker. Hopefully they’re everything you dream them to be.
Again not really the plan A is available in the industry standard thread that most use on the back end now days and most cans have a blast chamber long enough for the hammer comp.
And yes I'm very please with the Griffin mounts they have muzzle devices for a wide array of uses.
That T9k is a 9mm can - what’s the measured reduction for 5.56 from a 13.7” barrel? Are we moving the goalpost to pistol cans now instead of the 5.56 the OP asked about?
Which leads to the ability to use a 9mm can which BTW is rated for 300 Win Mag on a 12.5" SBR 5.56 or a 7.5" 300 Blackout pistol
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Or 350 Legend
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Some folks don't feel the need to direct thread cans on each and every gun.
 
What about P&W'in a can on a 10-13" barrel?

It'd certainly be a good "one stamp" solution assuming you've got a suitable can or don't mind waiting for one.
 
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Until you either get around to filling your SBR paperwork or deciding you don't like that set up and undoing the P&W either way.
Already have an SBR.

I've undone a P&W. I sold it to a friend who enjoys it more than I could. Wasn't can supportive so it had to go.
 
Up until this thing came up with the ATF changing the rules on braces, all of my ARs were pistols. I have a 10.3, 11.3, 12.5 and a 13.9.

My 2 cents....

10.3ish is the way to go for handiest, but you pay for that in terms of velocity.

11.3ish, really smooths things out with the longer dwell time with a bit of a bump in velocity. If I had to choose between the 10.3 and 11.3 now, I'd go with the 10.3 just for sheer compactness.

The 12.5 seems to be in a sweet spot. Appreciably longer than the 10.3, but very nice bump in velocity. Comparing the 11.3 to the 12.5, I'd take the 12.5 all day long. The velocity bump makes the extra inch worth it and increases the practical range of the weapon. It must have something to do with the burn rate of the powder or something.

The 12.5 is a criterion hybrid barrel and shoots VERY well. I use it as my workhorse so I pinned and welded a muzzle device to it to bring it to 16. I know, sounds like a stupid thing to do, but I didn't want to give the barrel up and I always have the 10.3 for when I want something compact.

My 13.9 setup is a BA Hansen with an FCD keymo mount pinned and welded. I actually like this rig more than I thought I would. Pinning and welding to 16 makes sense, I'm legal and it handles very well for a rifle. Comparing this to a 14.5 with a similar mount, the 14.5 is noticeably longer. I mean, it feels longer and the difference in velocity is negligible.

So... the way I'm going is this ...

If I want a dedicated suppressor host, want it as compact as possible and don't mind getting the one or two stamps, the 10.3ish is the way to go. If you don't mind it being a bit longer and can use the velocity, skip the 11.3ish and go to the 12.5. Honestly, for my purposes and the distances that I usually shoot and we if didn't have all of this ATF crap going on, I'd take the 12.5 if I could only have one. It's about as close to do it all as you can get for me.

If you don't want to mess with the sbr stuff, 13.9ish is the way to go. You just have to work with what you have when you run suppressed.

On a side note, for me, once I got to 12.5, I found that the shorter barrels start acting more like a rifle, in terms of recoil impulse and control ability. The 12.5 and up are very pleasant to shoot.
 
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