Those neighbors can also be very much anti-gun and create issues.
1851 Navy & beginner
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Those neighbors can also be very much anti-gun and create issues.
OP
OP
1861
Member
God, hope not! I didn't even think of that!
When he phoned me a couple of days ago, to inform me what he needs to do, the officer said that he'll be needing some papers about my revolver (I suppose he meant the receipt). I replied that all the papers are already in my file at his station. Then he said he'll need to check my gun. I replied that the boss of that department said that it won't be necessary, since I already brought the revolver to the station for them to check. Then he said it's the airsoft rifle in question, right? I replied no, that it's a reproduction for black powder. At that moment it was clear to me that the police officer who will check my "background" and decide about me has no clue about anything regarding my case.
OP
OP
1861
Member
Here's the latest news.
Until today, I could order only this German powder:
But now this Czech powder became available too:
German powder costs almost TWICE as much as a Czech one. I've found a discussion on a Polish black powder forum (I used Bing Translator) where they concluded that the German powder is a) WEAKER, b) CLEANER and C) gives more PRECISE results than the Czech powder. Which one would you choose? I ordered both a moment ago. Powders and caps will arrive to a shop in my town in 4 days.
Until today, I could order only this German powder:
But now this Czech powder became available too:
German powder costs almost TWICE as much as a Czech one. I've found a discussion on a Polish black powder forum (I used Bing Translator) where they concluded that the German powder is a) WEAKER, b) CLEANER and C) gives more PRECISE results than the Czech powder. Which one would you choose? I ordered both a moment ago. Powders and caps will arrive to a shop in my town in 4 days.
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The power level is only an issue if you are to hunt or otherwise defend yourself with them. I'm guessing accuracy and consistency would be more important to you, though I'd also assume you'd have a desire to try full loads just to see what's it's like as those who used them over a century ago certainly didn't use a weak load.
Ephraim Kibbey
Member
Another problem with the police talking to your neighbors is that now a bunch of people will know that you have a gun in your home. While that would be a deterrent to many thieves, it may be an attraction to others. Are you required to store firearms in a safe or lock box where you live?
Mizar
Member
I would not expect bullseye accuracy from a stock Pietta revolver anyway, so the Czech gunpowder seems like a better alternative - cheaper and more potent.
Guys, good or bad, those are the laws in OP's country - there is a little point to discuss it here, because we/he could not do much to change them via an US based gun forum...
Why is that conversation sounds so bizarrely familiar to me?...
In my country every police station has a special unit for dealing with explosives & firearms registration, permits, and etc. Those are some of the most ignorant and anti-gun people I have ever met. For example - local PD had once registered a semi-auto shotgun like: make "Remington", model "Warning"...
I'd buy both both powders though probably more of the cheaper priced one. Most of my shooting is done at a steel gong so precision accuracy is not needed. I do occasionally like to see what is happening on paper.
I wouldn't be too concerned with the interviewer. Knowing your area's history, I'd bet lots of your neighbors also have firearms. I work with lots of Bosnians and Kosovo-ians. Most of them have legally registered guns or otherwise.
I wouldn't be too concerned with the interviewer. Knowing your area's history, I'd bet lots of your neighbors also have firearms. I work with lots of Bosnians and Kosovo-ians. Most of them have legally registered guns or otherwise.
OP
OP
1861
Member
Modern firearms (for cartridge bullets) have to be locked in a safe. Muzzleloaders don't have to be, I think. But yesterday my beautiful case came (you can see it on previous page) which can be locked, and it will be locked. In future I'll have my revolvers displayed, but not yet. I also bought another case which can be locked for keeping all the accessories, like balls and caps, and I'll buy a third case just for powder. Everything will be locked. I'll post some photos here when everything arrives, you'll like them.
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OP
OP
1861
Member
What makes me think that I'll settle for German powder in the end is the b) CLEANER, for me that seems like the most important of the 3 factors:
"German powder is a) WEAKER, b) CLEANER and C) gives more PRECISE results than the Czech powder".
OP
OP
1861
Member
Not my neighbors. We could talk that way about this region in general, but as for the micro-location where I live, my building, my street, my neighborhood... not really.
Kosovars, not Kosovo-ians. Is it ok to ask what kind of work?
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OP
OP
1861
Member
As mentioned before, the official Pietta manual recommends 9 - 12 grains load of black powder, while everyone else recommends much more. Ok - but no-one said WHAT would happen IF I would put LESS powder. I'm just curious, I need to know. If I put for example 5 grains, then press it, then press wad and ball inside and shoot it - what would happen? Powder would burn out and the ball would not move, or...?
Typically when the projectile isn't seated against the powder it can bulge the barrel or even blow it open. But that's with a larger charge. I'm not sure what would happen with a tiny charge like 5 grns, though I'd venture to guess the pressures would be erratic giving poor accuracy.
From what many claim BP likes compression.
If you are considering very small charges maybe figuring out the approximate volume of the chamber once a projectile has been seated is in order. Run the ram down fully and mark it. Measure what entered the chamber and add the length of a ball, and then measure the depth of the chamber minus what you got and estimate what you have left. Of course that's much easier when your powder measure is close to the same diameter as your chamber such as mine...
If you are considering very small charges maybe figuring out the approximate volume of the chamber once a projectile has been seated is in order. Run the ram down fully and mark it. Measure what entered the chamber and add the length of a ball, and then measure the depth of the chamber minus what you got and estimate what you have left. Of course that's much easier when your powder measure is close to the same diameter as your chamber such as mine...
OP
OP
1861
Member
Of course I'm not considering that. I'm just trying to understand black powder. Hypothetically speaking - what result would give 3, 4, 5, 6 or 7 grains? I'll try out everything between 12 and 22 grains.
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whughett
Member
Would you expand on your ," the smaller the number the faster the burn", statement. I thought "F" applied to the granulation of the powder, but with in any given brand the burning rate would be the same. I had always though that black was an uncontrolled burn, or explosion, as smokeless is a controlled burn determined by kernel shape size and coatings. Black, in the open air burns hot, fast and bright, smokeless under the same conditions fizzles and smokes.
I've never used anything but 3F. The Walker,( I shoot a 40 grain/round ball load) at least once a week, is my favorite so next order for powder will include several pounds of 2F.
4F burns quicker than 3 or 2F. And it generates pressure faster as well.
I've seen Brushhippie compare his homemade powder to Swiss and some other powder. His powder burns quickly like Swiss but faster than the other (standard Goex maybe?). So even powders of the same granulation but different make can burn at different rates.
Black does ignite fast like an explosion but still isn't precisely like that.
I've seen Brushhippie compare his homemade powder to Swiss and some other powder. His powder burns quickly like Swiss but faster than the other (standard Goex maybe?). So even powders of the same granulation but different make can burn at different rates.
Black does ignite fast like an explosion but still isn't precisely like that.
Looking for info on this I find conflicting info. In one, on a forum, it's said black powder burns at the same rate but that smaller granules get consumed faster thereby "burning faster."
In others it states just that smaller granules burn faster.
My understanding is that the same volume of powder but comparing 4F to 2F the smaller granule charge will have been completely consumed before the other.
My understanding has mostly come from word of mouth on forums though.
In others it states just that smaller granules burn faster.
My understanding is that the same volume of powder but comparing 4F to 2F the smaller granule charge will have been completely consumed before the other.
My understanding has mostly come from word of mouth on forums though.
Ephraim Kibbey
Member
Reaction rate will depend on surface area (all other factors held constant.) The smaller the granulation, the more surface area so the faster and more complete the reaction. Ask any grain elevator operator about dust explosions!
I work for k b r in logistics.
I think too small of a powder charge and the ball might not make down the barrel. I haven't experimented though.
Seems adding just a couple of grains into the drum of a dry balled rifle often pushes the patched ball out.
Good Point. How far does the ball go - easily recovered?
My day hasn't come yet. No doubt it will as I'm a talkative fellow and can easily be drawn into a conversation while doing something important like paying attention while loading.
I wouldn't think a dribble could produce much more than enough to expel a projectile though, especially as it doesn't always seem to work anyway, though that seems uncommon.
OP
OP
1861
Member
I really don't understand what you wrote.
3 boxes of Remington No.10 caps just arrived from France!! We still don't have powder and balls, but we (Colt Navy and I) are not virgins any more, in a way
I was very surprised to see how tiny the box is and how tiny the caps are - I expected something twice the size. How anyone with large fingers can operate cap & ball? Anyway, cap fitted perfectly; even though I've seen it live today for the first time in my life, it seemd to me right away that no pushing and pinching is needed. Still, I took a small screwdriver to push a cap, but it was already completely seated on a nipple, it didn't go any further. It was seated very firmly, I don't think I could easily pull it off nipple. Next week I'll get Czech caps which are much cheaper to me (no shipping costs from another country), so I'll compare them to Remington 10 which seem to fit perfectly to my 1851 Navy.
I fired only two. After firing the first cap, it stayed on the nipple, but fell off when I moved my arm. After firing the second cap, it stayed on the hammer and I had to pull it off the hammer with my fingers.
I was surprised how loud it was!! I didn't expect it, I thought it'll make much smaller BANG. It was loud, all right, so no cap shooting indoors. Can't imagine what kind of BANG will powder produce when a tiny cap makes this much.
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Mizar
Member
OP
OP
1861
Member
Oh yeah, I forgot about that, that's the only accessory which I haven't ordered yet. I will, eventually, I'll have to decide which model, lots of them on the market.
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