223/556 some won't pass gauge test

[glaizinman]

I have been loading 223 / 556 with lee dies I use my rock chucker for resize & deprime then load on a dillion 550. Most of my rounds pass the gauge test but some don't the one that don't pass I'm wondering why and do they make like a bulge buster for the 223/556 ? Any advise would be appreciated thankyou

 

[rcmodel]

Color the loaded round with a black marker, then force it in the gage as far as you can..

Where the marker ink rubs off is your problem.

More then likely you are crimping untrimmed brass, and the shoulders are getting buckled to slight to see, but enough to fail chambering.

Either that, or you don't have your sizing die adjusted down enough to get press cam over and fully push the shoulder back where it came from.

Very doubtful its base bulge causing it.

rc

 

[Load Master]

The most common issue with .223 Rem is not having the full length die screwed in far enough to fully size the case. Are you trimming the cases? If so, make sure the trimming is done after sizing.

 

[glaizinman]

Thanks for the fast response. I'm trimming my brass I will try turning in the sizing die in a bit more. Is there any way to fix the rounds that didn't pass? Thanks guys

 

[glaizinman]

And yes I'm sizing before triming

 

[Load Master]

Is there any way to fix the rounds that didn't pass?

I would suggest pulling bullet, dump powder and resize the case, and reload. You can, and I always gauge test cases before loading them.

 

[tcoz]

Your barrel is the best case gauge so before you do anything else test those rounds in your barrel. If they still fail, readjust your sizing die. That's probably the cause if your problem.

 

[243winxb]

A burr on the rim may make brass fail the gage test. But will be ok in the rifle chamber.

 

[Walkalong]

No bulge buster for .223. Besides, if it is a shoulder problem it wouldn't help anyway.

Always check your sized brass with the gauge before you load it. If they all pass if you have problems afterwards you know where to look, and not at the sizing.

By "pass the gauge" do you mean they fail to go in all the way or is the "headspace" wrong?

As posted, burrs/nicks on the case head can cause a problem, check that.

If they fit the chamber you can fire them and set up the sizer more carefully next time. If not, you'll need to pull them down.

Try rcmodels magic marker test and let us know where they fail.

 

[JimKirk]

A burr on the rim may make brass fail the gauge test

Turn the case around and stick the base end in first into the gauge ... it should fit somewhat down into the gauge.... if not then there is a burr on the rim somewhere ...

 

[Blue68f100]

You can size a loaded round with Redding FL-S Bushing die. Just remove the bushing and stem. This is a special die that can be used to do FL sizing with the advantage of using a bushing for the neck.

 

[Load Master]

You can size a loaded round with Redding FL-S Bushing die. Just remove the bushing and stem. This is a special die that can be used to do FL sizing with the advantage of using a bushing for the neck.

Is this something you have done? Can you point to Redding's instructions on how to resize a loaded round?

 

[jmorris]

Mike makes dies for the casepro to roll size .223 brass but I doubt that is the ops problem.

To check just put the case in the gauge backwards, like Jim said.

 

[double bogey]

I had the same problem. Loaded ammo that wouldn't chamber. About 1 in 6 wouldn't load. Got a lyman case gauge and found the problem. Used feeler gauges and got the resizing die right. Seemed a little odd that some would size and chamber and others wouldn't. All Lake city once fired.

 

[glaizinman]

They fail to go in all the way. I will look for burrs.
I'm new to loading rifle rounds I will check brass with gage after sizing and trimming before loading thanks guys

 

[au_prospector]

The question was asked earlier kind of, but you didnt answer.....

Are you crimping?

If so, then look for a slight bulge or fold or buckle where the case body meets the shoulder.

You might not be able to see it very well, but you might feel it with your fingertips and it might be measurable with calipers. My first batch of .223 I crimped the bullet before I knew better. Got a slight bulge in the spot described that I did not notice right away. Some would chamber, about a third would not without forcing the bolt closed which is not a safe condition with a Mini 14 according to my Ruger manual.

No need for crimp with this round, plenty of neck tension.

Welcome to THR!

 

[Blue68f100]

Is this something you have done? Can you point to Redding's instructions on how to resize a loaded round?

I've only had to do it on 1 round. It works very easy. All you do is remove all the internals and it works like a Body die.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/401556/redding-body-die-223-remington

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/676249/redding-type-s-bushing-full-length-sizer-die-223-remington

 

[tcoz]

Your Rockchucker is a beast of a press so you shouldn't be dealing with flex in the press like you might with others. Start over with your sizing die adjustment from the beginning. When you have it adjusted as per the instructions it's very easy to see whether you're sizing the entire case. First be sure to lube an unsized case. Run it up all the way into your sizing die as you normally would. I'm not familiar enough with the operation of the Rockchucker so if it calls for setting cam over, be sure to do it. While you have the case fully into the die and the ram up as far as it will go, take a sheet of white paper and slip it behind the base of the case. Look for ANY indication of space between the bottom of the die and the shellholder. You can also shine a flashlight on that area from all angles and again look for any light coming through. If you see any sliver of light coming through, screw the sizing die in 1/16 to 1/8 of a turn at a time until no light gets through. When this occurs your die will be fully sizing the case.
As an aside, when you get more experienced and start measuring for shoulder setback, you might not always want that same complete level of sizing but for now size as far as your die will allow and this will hopefully solve your problem.

 

[Walkalong]

When we size per the instructions we are hoping all specs and tolerances are OK and we do not run into tolerance stacking.

If we use a Wilson gauge to set up the sizer (Assuming again that the gauge is OK and our chamber is in spec) the shoulder should be right.

If we use a Sheridan or JP Rifles gauge we should be OK on the shoulder and body. Again, assuming specs, tolerances, stacking, user error.......

If using a gauge, always gauge the sized and tumbled brass before proceeding.

 

[Dustin0104]

I have some that have a ding in the shoulder, won't drop in my Lyman gauge.

 

[tcoz]

I sometimes have brass with tiny dings in the shoulder but never enough to prevent it from chambering or dropping fully into a gauge. Make sure that you aren't getting any solid case lube on the shoulders of your cases.

 

[ColoradoShooter77]

I found out that my reloads that chambered just fine in the S&W M&P, will not chamber in my new PSA rifle.

I've got an RCBS small base die ordered from Amazon. Some of the reviewers have mentioned they've had this problem with Lee dies.

 

[atblis]

I would suspect the PSA rifle before the dies. How much are you bumping the shoulder? You'd be better served investing in some measurement tools.

 

[ColoradoShooter77]

I've got the Lee die set up to where the shell-holder bumps the bottom of the die. The S&W will chamber the rounds without issue.

I had the same problem with a Lee 308 die on my Remington 700 Tactical 308. The Lee die was a no go. I bought a small base die and every round chambers like butter now.

 

[atblis]

Turn it in another 1/4 turn and see what happens. Maybe even 1/2. I've yet to see a die and die shell holder combo that can't get to SAAMI specs. Usually a few thousandths under min if you crank the die all the way down.