3" 38/357 Realistic as a Starter?

[mavracer]

3" medium frame .357 is a great choice as is a compact 9mm. Whichever you enjoy more will likely lead to more practice and is a better choice.
Of course there are parts of St Louis I'd want a lot more gun.

 

[Lovesbeer99]

Just throwing this out there. You might also look for a Ruger Speed 6. A snub nose in 357 with fixed sights. They have sweek actions also.

If you love spending money you can find a Colt compact Mangnum. This is basically a D frame gun (just like the 2nd gen Det Spl) but in 357. They are really sweet, hold 6 rounds but cost about 1500.00.

 

[FHBrumb]

My kids are 9, 12, and 14. They are seriously petite, and all are learning to shoot on a S&W Model 65 with a 3 inch barrel. From time to time, it finds its way underneath my jacket. Nothing wrong with 3 inchers and fiixed sights...

 

[griz1]

I have Glocks, Ruger, S&w, Colt, but the guns I reach for going out the door or my Sp-101 and S&W Mod. 65. both 3 inch. A pleasure to shoot and carry.

 

[medic_guns]

I carry a k frame (model 13-2) with 3 inch barrel and a j frame BUG. I recently switched back to revolvers after having a failure in a semi auto. Become very proficient with the gun and a back up. .357 and .38 is a great combination. Model 13 3" and a 342ti. Plenty of firepower.

 

[pearsonm]

I’m definitely checking out combat events. The IDPA is headquartered about an hour south of me. I also bought Magpul’s Art of Dynamic Handgun series. I’m not the competitive type but I enjoy learning and becoming proficient in whatever I do.

The suggestions are really helping me narrow things down (see below). I’d like to keep things around $500 which I believe will get me a new Ruger or used S&W. I appreciate Colt’s but I assume those are going to be more than I‘m willing to spend.

S&W
Model 13 (K, blue, similar to M19 ('57-'99), ‘74-present)
Model 60 (J, 5-shot, ‘65-present)
Model 64 (K, 38, stainless version of M10 (1899-present))
Model 65 (K, stainless version of M13, ‘72-‘05)
Model 66 (K, stainless variant of the M19, ‘70-‘05)
Model 681 (L, 686 variant)
Model 686 (L, 6-7 shot, ‘80-present)
(whew!)

RUGER
SP101 (small, 5-shot, ‘89-present)
GP100 (medium, ‘85-present)
Six Series (medium, ‘72-’88)

 

[mavracer]

You should also take a look at a Ruger Security Six, it's basically a speed six with adjustable sights.

 

[Waywatcher]

I would scratch off the list any revolver that is chambered in .38 special. (There's some Rugers like this, and S&Ws) If you want to be even remotely competitive, you can also scratch off the 5 and 7 shooters.

It would be far too limiting, and weak, for a first gun to be .38 special only. If you're going to carry a revolver with 5 to 6 shots, those shots gotta be good! .357 or better! Even with 125 magnums, my split times are only ~0.50 seconds out to 7 yards, keeping them in the A zone, or -0 zone of an IDPA target. (All six shots emptied in less than 3 seconds, on a pact timer, -0 points.) (Plus with .357, you get to have the reputation of carrying a handheld flashbang.)

 

[ArchAngelCD]

I don't understand why everyone does this to people on this forum. The OP asks about revolvers and half the posts tell him he's wrong and should buy a 9mm semi-auto. Why can't everyone just answer the OP's question and not tell him what you think he should carry instead of what he wants to carry?

Flame me all you want, I don't really care!

 

[Waywatcher]

I don't understand why everyone does this to people on this forum. The OP asks about revolvers and half the posts tell him he's wrong and should buy a 9mm semi-auto. Why can't everyone just answer the OP's question and not tell him what you think he should carry instead of what he wants to carry?

I guess I'm not seeing that, unless I'm part of the problem? He did say in his OP:

Right now my brain says plastic 9mm semi but my heart says stainless 38/357.

I was relating and sharing a similar dilemma.

 

[goon]

I disagree on the .38 Special. Although I prefer the .357 because I feel you don't really give anything up by going with it and needlessly limit yourself with a .38, I also wouldn't shed tears about a good .38 if it showed up at the right price (meaning far cheaper than a .357). There are some promising .38 Special defense loads around and if that's that the shooter likes, more power to him.

 

[BCRider]

....I’m not the competitive type but I enjoy learning and becoming proficient in whatever I do.

You don't need to go out to win. Instead just concentrate on using the game to become a better and more skillful shooter.... Oh, and it's OK to have fun along the way...

Seriously from a sporting standpoint shooting of this sort is the most fun you can have with a handgun. You may or may not rise to the top of your classification level. If you do fine, but mostly if you do it shows you that you're a better and more skillful shooter that can put rounds on target more quickly and with more accuracy then you did when you started out. A lot of the stuff you learn will also become more instinctual which can ONLY help you if it should ever come down to a real situation.

And like with any such sporting situation it's highly likely you'll meet a great bunch of folks and end up with new friends.

 

[pearsonm]

I’m going to be embarrassed if we wind up with a 9mm instead of a revolver.

9’s are what I looked at first so I’ve got an idea where to start there. I’m not comfortable with Glock’s SAP design and I have disproportional small thumbs so any safety/decock needs to be mounted on the frame rather than slide. That narrows it down to the XD, FNP, M&P and Sig.

At this point I need to stay away from the keyboard so I can get some sleep and be ready for Saturday. Although we’re only shooting .22’s I’m hoping we’ll both gravitate the same direction. Then, I’m hoping to rent 38’s and/or 9’s next week, narrow it down to a few models and start shopping!

 

[sixgunner455]

There is nothing wrong with the .38 Special!!! The .38 works - it's not some weak-sister round, just because some of the loads are really mild.

Most of the rounds fired through most .357 revolvers are .38 rounds anyway. If you don't NEED a .357, a good .38 can save you some money - in some cases, a lot of money.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

This is my current carry, a S&W M442:



I'm a revolver guy and I like pocket carry. This revolver is a go everywhere all the time revolver.

 

[Waywatcher]

I’m not comfortable with Glock’s SAP design and I have disproportional small thumbs so any safety/decock needs to be mounted on the frame rather than slide. That narrows it down to the XD, FNP, M&P and Sig.

If you're uncomfortable with a Glock trigger, you'll definitely be uncomfortable with an XD. They're nearly identical, except that the XD is 100% pre cocked, but the Glock is not.

By the way, did you know that for a $2 part, the NY-1 spring increases a Glocks trigger pull up to around 8 pounds, and was designed by Glock to replicate the feel of a revolver trigger? They also have the added benefit of increased reliability over the original spring. I put one in my Glock.

I keep in touch with a good friend who is an extremely active practical shooter, and the M&P is not accurate on par with the others listed. The Sig is a decent choice. So are Berettas.

 

[Earlsbud]

There are 3" Colt's out there (used of course) that would be a reasonable CCW choice.

 

[gazpacho]

I have never met anyone who has regretted buying a quality revolver.

If you do in fact pruchase a 38/357 revolver, a natrual progression from that would be to buy a rifle. There is some truth to the saying that you use your handgun to fight your way to your rifle. May I suggest that once you get to the point of shopping for a rifle, you seriously consider a 38/357 lever action rifle? First off, the commonality of ammo will ease ownership. Second, 357 from a 16" barrel is a very potent round, capable of efficiently taking medium game up to 100 yards. This makes it a very effective choice for home defence.

 

[Trebor]

I'm a fan of the 3" K Frame. That barrel length is short enough to help concealment yet still long enough to avoid losing a lot of velocity.

I carried a 3" Model 65 as my daily carry for a few years. I used a Alessi Talon holster and I was very happy with the setup.

That said, I did switch to a Sig 239 with a Talon in 2011. I finally decided that for about the same weight and bulk I wanted 9 rounds of 9mm instead of six rounds of .38 +P.

I still use the 65 as a "spare" carry gun if the Sig is down for cleaning/maintence or whatever.

If you decide to carry a revolver a 3" K frame is a great choice.

 

[Stainz]

If you want to buy new, the 3" 60 Pro, SKU #178013, is only a few bucks more than a basic 3" 60 - and comes as pictured below, with a tritium night sight on front and some great wood grips. For social use, the +P 158gr LHPSWC's are all I need. The knife is a Buck Custom Shop 110.



Stainz

 

[bikerdoc]

3 inch old 150 series Ruger Police Service Six

 

[ACP]

It's a good gun to start, stay and end with.

I vote for an S&W K-frame. I myself have a 3" Ladysmith Model 65 -- comes from the factory with a trigger job.

 

[EVIL]

9’s are what I looked at first so I’ve got an idea where to start there. I’m not comfortable with Glock’s SAP design

I carry either a RUGER SP101 3" or a Glock 27 Daily ... The Glock is just as "safe" as a DA revolver. While I love both - the Glock has never failed - ever. None of my other Glocks have failed - ever. The Ruger's Cylander has bound up before (on an improperly seated primer) preventing the gun from being fired until the cause of the "malfunction" was determined by a case inspection. In a Glock (or any other quality, reliable auto) - "rack-tap-bang" and you are back in the fight. The point being - that the mantra that "revolvers don't fail" isn't true. Revolvers are also - at least for me -way slow on the reload. To me, they are best as a BUG or NY Reload - or in a low threat area (like in my home.) Maybe because I shoot Glocks in competition & train on the reloads with a magazine - I would be dead if I had to reload the revolver under fire. With an auto I would at least have a chance.


The point being is not to sell you a Glock pistol...by all means try many types, calibers, actions as you can and buy what you manipulate and shoot best. But don't rule out or distrust (autos) when you have no personal experience with them. To me that is just like the rationale of the anti-gunners trying to ban high capacity magazines because "they" are arbitrarily scared of them and have no experience with guns.

All that being said the Ruger SP101 3" is a tack driver that allows very quick follow-up shots with .38 +P. But to me, it is 5 shots and out ... SO you better be able to hit the target under duress...I say all this to you, and I "love" my revolvers in a way that I really don't "love" my Glocks which are function over form. This is why I choose to carry a revolver often...

 

[pearsonm]

To me that [distrusting autos] is just like the rationale of the anti-gunners trying to ban high capacity magazines because "they" are arbitrarily scared of them and have no experience with guns.

Let me make sure I have this correct. I'm getting professional training and doing due diligence before I buy the first piece of equipment, but since I’m not sold on Glock’s that makes me an anti-gunner? How did my thread wind up on Glock Talk?

I'm kidding. I'll talk Glock’s with anyone who doesn't have a glassy-eyed, Kool-Aid gaze. I appreciate the brilliance of the Glock platform and would probably own a G19 right now if it wasn’t for the SAP thing.

I spent a lot of years as a kid chasing small game in KS and NE. To me it was no big deal - animal takes off, safety goes off, aim and shoot. All one, fluid motion conditioned years ago. Although I haven't shot in 30 years my trigger finger still reaches to rest on the safety of my 20-gauge Ithaca Featherweight.

Yes, I think I can do it in a stress situation. Yes, I understand that the biggest safety is between the ears. Yes, I understand Rule# 3 - Keep your finger off the trigger until you’re ready to fire. Yes, I’m aware of the N.Y.1 (and N.Y.2) trigger. Most importantly to me, yes, sometimes shtuff like Glock Leg just happens.

For my application I’m not comfortable with the risk/reward of a Glock. It’s not as if there’s a shortage of competing 9mm, semi-auto’s with features that I am comfortable with, so for now that’s the route I’m going to take. I know where to go if I need to learn more.

 

[medic_guns]

Geeeeez. Just go ahead and buy a Glock with a 33 round mag. That way, when under duress in a big shootout, you can just spray and pray. After all, hitting your target isn't the most important thing, you know? Just let the lead fly from your supa glock foty. Innocent bystanders? PSSHHHH, who cares. Just let it fly. Revolvers aren't capable of laying down massive amounts of projectiles that don't necessarily have to hit a target, you know? Don't pay attention to any stats that show an average gunfight is up close and involves only a few shots. Get the super gigantic magazine eating glock rock and rolla. Life is just like the movies where folks are attacked by roving gangs of dudes that are all toting heat just begging for a shootout. They don't run away when you start shooting, either. They stay for the fight. You only need to be ready with your lead spraying glock and your 50 or 60 rounds of preloaded ammo.