45 cal lead bullets

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carpenter

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I promised myself that I would use only copper plated bullets at reduced velocities because of the ease of cleaning my guns after shooting.

But the volitility of the market and today's prices caused me to rethink that concerning my 45s. These guns aren't like revolvers where you have to scrub and scrub and scrub the cylinders. (I never can seem to get them really clean, anyway.)

So I ordered a couple boxes (500 each) of lead 200 grain SWC from Midway. No big deal. I'll just use rubber gloves while reloading. Vapors are no big deal since the range is outdoor.

Dunno what I'm going to do about my 25-2, though. It's back to scrubbing and scrubbing and scrubbing for that one.

Thoughts on plated vs. lead? Cleaning lead/leading out of revolvers?
 
I have never found leading to be a problem at the velocities at which I load .45's, either .45 Colt or .45 ACP.

I shoot thousands of rounds of lead bullets, and don't find cleaning to be a problem. A couple of swipes with a boresnake with a couple of drops of CLP or FP10 after a range session is all that it takes to get the bores shiny clean.
 
The bores aren't really the problem for me (unless we're talking about serious leading).

The cylinders are a pain, though. My brush just doesn't fit tight enough to really scrub the entire length of the cylinder.
 
Match your bullet to the pressure and velocity you are shooting and there will be minimal to no leading. That is far easier than scrubbing out lead. :)

The .45 auto is easy to find a load for that will not lead. Most any medium hard cast bullet will work in the .45 ACP. I shot those for years without cleaning the barrel other than run a wet patch or two through it followed by a couple of dry ones every once in a blue moon.

For a revolver you will also need to match the diameter to your cylinder throats. Not a big problem either.
 
Loading to minimize leading

So what load would anyone recommend for RNFP 200 grain with Bullseye.

What's the best method to get existing lead out?

Can't seem to find any specifics using the search function
 
What's the best method to get existing lead out?
Click to expand...

Here's what I've been doing for years, at least until I stopped shooting lead. After I shoot my lead rounds, I run a box of jacketed ammo through the gun. I've been shooting for 30 years and have not seen any ill effects. And the numerous gunsmiths I've quizzed about the practice all said it was fine.

Now that I've bought some more lead bullets, I guess I'm going to take FMJ rounds too.

There is something called Lewis Lead Remover, but man, that's a lot of work.
And I never could get them sufficiently clean.
 
Specific bullet and cost

Carpenter,

I am curently thinking about trying lead RN for my Ruger P345. I just bought some rainier RN 230 grain on Friday just to try out. I loaded them with 5.0 Unique at 1.26 OAL and they shot great. But for shooting paper I am considering lead just to make them a little cheaper.

What specific bullets did you get from Midway and mind letting me know what you paid for them?

I think I am going to get several thousand of something soon. Just trying to make an educated purchase.

THANKS
Kevin
 
Match your bullet to the pressure and velocity you are shooting and there will be minimal to no leading. That is far easier than scrubbing out lead.


This is the secret to leading problems. I shoot a really hardcast bullet in 44 mag with no problems. In 45 acp you'll be keeping those velocities under 100 fps. Are those Meister bullets you bought? I shoot thsoe at 950 fps with no problems.
 
Carpenter
So I ordered a couple boxes (500 each) of lead 200 grain SWC from Midway. No big deal. I'll just use rubber gloves while reloading. Vapors are no big deal since the range is outdoor.
Click to expand...

No need to wear rubber gloves when handling lead bullets, I have been casting lead bullets for 20+ years and have handled and loaded literally hundereds of thousands of lead bullets and my lead blood levels have always been normal. Biggest run when handling lead, Don't eat, drink, smoke or stick you fingers in you mouth without washing your hands good.

The number one culprits for leading are the wrong size bullet for the barrel, to soft lead for to high a velocity or to hard lead for to slow a velocity and rough barrel.

I find I have little problems with leading as I cast my own and take into account size, alloy, lube and speed when I load them. Using a good solvent like shooters choice lead removing solvent or one of the lead removal cloths cut into the correct patch size for the caliber I'm working with, works great. I also use a Outers foul out II about every six months to remove any lead residue that I cannot see with the naked eye. It all works out in the end, cause its a he!! of a lot cheaper to load lead then it is to load jacketed and your barrel will NEVER wear out shooting lead.

Just my $.02
 
FWIW: I discovered KROIL (the oil that creeps) late in life. Lots of folks use it for lots of things, but I find it great for removing leading. Swab down the barrel (or whatever) with Kroil. Let it sit for a few minutes while you clean something else. Run a brush down the barrel and the lead comes out in large flakes. It's the best thing I've found so far.
 
As for cost, you could get a Lee lead furnace and bullet mold for about what a box of 500 cast bullets cost, and you could make your own from now on. I use wheel weights and cast my own and have no problem with leading. And save tons of money. I use Lee tumble lube and have great results.

5.3 grains W231
200 grain LSWC
 
Trying Lead

Got an itch last night and ordered 1,00 Oregon Trail Laser cast lead 230 RN bullets from Midway. They are on sale for $31.99 per 500 (usually $42.99). I started out with Speers and Hornady bullets then rainiers, now lead. I'll probably be molding my own soon. Components are getting too damn expensive.

The OT's run me about .07 or .08 cents per bullet after shipping. Thats not too bad for target shooting.

Just curious, anyone have any experience with them?

Later
QM
 
Grizz2, I'm a newbie and don't understand your post.

"Match your bullet to the pressure and velocity you are shooting and there will be minimal to no leading. That is far easier than scrubbing out lead."
Please explain.
Thanks......Joe
 
The best and least expensive way to remove lead is by using Copper Chore Boy pads. Buy in any grocery. Cut a piece, wrap it around an old bore brush. Run it through....and lead is gone. Does a fast inexpensive job. You will actually see the lead on the chore boy the very first pass. This is a tried and true method used by many 1911 folks that shoot nothing but lead...including myself. Try it. Good luck
 
Grizz2, I'm a newbie and don't understand your post.


"Match your bullet to the pressure and velocity you are shooting and there will be minimal to no leading. That is far easier than scrubbing out lead."
Please explain.
Thanks......Joe
Click to expand...

My post originally. I will try to help here.

The cast bullet has to obturate to fill the bore. If it does not expand and fill the bore ( or revolver throat ) hot gases will blow by the base and "cut" lead from the bullet just like a cutting torch does steel and deposit that lead in the bore. If you are using to hard of a bullet for your pressure it will not obturate and seal off the bullet from gas cutting. This will lead the throats/leade and first part of the barrel much more than the rest of the barrel.

If you are using too soft of a bullet for the pressure then it will cause severe leading mainly for the fact that you are going to push the bullet at a velocity that it can not handle. It will skid down the bore instead of following the lands and grooves and cause severe leading. This will lead the entire bore fairly evenly.

You also have to have enough lube for your velocity/hardness level/who knows what all. If you have the right hardness bullet, but not enough lube, the bullet will "run out" of lube and cause leading. This is happening when you see leading towards the end of the barrell, but not at the beginning.

I hope this helps and is clear. I typed quickly, but think I made sense. :)

Welcome to THR t0066jh.
 
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