.45 super conversion?

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Those who wish to pursue this might want to think about why FN put a thicker slide on the Hi Power for the 40 S&W variant. Not to discourage anyone. Heck, I've got a 10MM that I built on a CASPIAN frame. I certainly don't know enough about 1911s to be certain, but my engineering background tells me not to be surprised if it doesn't live as long as my 45s even with the "enhancements" like the hard fit barrel and EGW stop plate.
 
1911Tuner said:
Yep...and FN felt that this was a necessary design change....

Exactly! :) Now if someone would build 1911 slides heavier in the critical areas, that would go a long way toward mitigating some of the extra stress. It won't get it all, but it would be a start. I would prefer to see more available locking surface for the barrel (third lug or Glock/Sig style?) and perhaps a cam lock system similar to the Peters-Stahl or Jarvis.
 
I would prefer to see more available locking surface for the barrel (third lug or Glock/Sig style?) and .

Actually, that's the first lug...but we ain't gonna pick nits. :)

The space available in the standard 1911 slide limits the size of the lugs, and the height of the bore axis limits the vertical depth of engagement.
If it gets in deeper...it has to drop further in order to get clear of the slide...so another major design change would be required. If we keep trying to turn it into a .44 Magnum...pretty soon, it won't even look like a 1911 any more.

perhaps a cam lock system similar to the Peters-Stahl or Jarvis

"Lock" is a misleading term. The breech locks under pressure when the gun fires...and the lugs engage horizontally against the shearing force that's trying to rip them off the barrel and out of the slide. This is described in Browning's original patents.

I'm not familiar with either of the designs mentioned...but if a camming action is used, which actually toggles the barrel vertically into the slide...it does achieve a lock of sorts, but mainly serves to put the barrel in the same place between shots, and doesn't add to the strength of the lockup. In order to do that, the lugs have to be larger...more massive...because the pounding that they take is all in the horizontal plane.
 
Well, as most of you know COLT is going to try making the Delta Elite again in 10mm of course.

I will be curious at what design changes they have made to solve some of the problems discussed here.

I know they have gone to a BULL BARREL design .......don't know how that impacts the stress riser problems ???

I have a Stainless Delta Elite right now that had litterally eaten itself up.
The Slide's disconnect slot is completely destroyed ......so much for hammer rebound on those thin series 80 disconnect walls !! So many problems -- don't know where to begin the rebuild. I now know and can see first hand what had Colt pulling the plug on this model.

My dad always told me " You can't stuff 10 lbs of potatoes in a 5 lbs bag".

JF.
 
I will be curious at what design changes they have made to solve some of the problems discussed here.

My guess would be fillets in the sharp corners, and possibly a little thicker material to combat the stretch. Not enough to make the gun obviously heavier...but I'll bet that it you weigh an old Delta slide beside one of the reissuses, you'll find that it's gained an ounce or so.

A bull barrel wouldn't help, and could possibly make it worse. Remember that the slide will be pulling the barrel rearward. The heavier the barrel...the more stress it will incur in trying to accelerate the mass. The upper lugs need to be thicker, and...if possible...fitted for equal engagement horizontally.
 
My guess would be fillets in the sharp corners, and possibly a little thicker material to combat the stretch. Not enough to make the gun obviously heavier...but I'll bet that it you weigh an old Delta slide beside one of the reissuses, you'll find that it's gained an ounce or so.

A bull barrel wouldn't help, and could possibly make it worse. Remember that the slide will be pulling the barrel rearward. The heavier the barrel...the more stress it will incur in trying to accelerate the mass. The upper lugs need to be thicker, and...if possible...fitted for equal engagement horizontally.
Being an auto mechanic and former automotive machinist, I can tell you know what you speak of. Not many people understand the concept of fillets proper radius to improve the strength of an item. I can take a stock Chevy crank and make it way stronger than most stock ones with the proper radius at the journals and the proper fillet.
 
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