9mm ring at base after resizing

[USMC22]

Hi Guys,

I set up my Redding 9mm dies (88172) on a T7 and after resizing I am getting a ring where the shell plate and die meet. The die is making contact with the shell plate. Is this brass still ok to use? It's blazer and other cheap stuff.

Also, after seating my bullets (test round for setting up seating depth) there is a bulge at the base of the bullet, is this normal?

Thanks,

Aaron

 

[hdwhit]

USMC22 wrote:
...after resizing I am getting a ring where the shell plate and die meet. The die is making contact with the shell plate. Is this brass still ok to use?

A photograph would help (Use the Your Attachments button at the lower right of the screen where you compose your reply), but if it is what I think it is, it is perfectly fine.

Also, after seating my bullets (test round for setting up seating depth) there is a bulge at the base of the bullet, is this normal?

The 9mm case is slightly tapered. The carbide sizer ring in most (if not all) handloading dies is not tapered its entire length, so the middle of the case gets sized a little smaller than if it were truly tapered. When the bullet is seated, it will bulge the weaker side of the case slightly. Some people call this a "wasp waist" profile. It is common on handloaded rounds.

Of course you want to use common sense and if the case is cracking or splitting at the bulge then you have a problem, but the slight bulge is not a problem.

 

[.308 Norma]

Hi Guys,

I set up my Redding 9mm dies (88172) on a T7 and after resizing I am getting a ring where the shell plate and die meet. The die is making contact with the shell plate. Is this brass still ok to use? It's blazer and other cheap stuff.

Also, after seating my bullets (test round for setting up seating depth) there is a bulge at the base of the bullet, is this normal?

Thanks,

Aaron

There's a "ring" at the base of some of my resized 9mm cases. However, because I can't see your resized 9mm cases, I won't make a guess whether it's alright or not. Maybe someone else will chime in on this.
But that bulge at the base of the bullet thing - don't worry about it. It's normal. You can use a Lee Factory Crimp die, and possibly iron a little bit of that bulge out if you want to. I don't.
Not entirely off topic, and maybe a stupid question, but aren't some of those "blazer" cases aluminum instead of brass?

 

[USMC22]

Pics uploaded.

 

[USMC22]

There's a "ring" at the base of some of my resized 9mm cases. However, because I can't see your resized 9mm cases, I won't make a guess whether it's alright or not. Maybe someone else will chime in on this.
But that bulge at the base of the bullet thing - don't worry about it. It's normal. You can use a Lee Factory Crimp die, and possible iron a little bit of that bulge out if you want to. I don't.
Not entirely off topic, and maybe a stupid question, but aren't some of those "blazer" cases aluminum instead of brass?

I've pulled the "silver colored" brass, now I'm questioning the brass I'm using...

 

[USMC22]

I'm reloading 124 hornady hp's. The coal in their manual calls for 1.06". Not sure if my Redding dies are crimping at the same stage or if that's even an issue

 

[scythefwd]

If you look at the mouth of your sizing die, you'll see its chamfered to help with brass insertion a little. You might find that ring is where the carbide sizer is last making contact when the holder hits the base of the die, then changing directions.. Its a rub mark and I'd not be worried about that as long as you're not experiencing blowouts or separations.

 

[tightgroup tiger]

The brass is fine to use. The ring you are seeing is where the sizing die stopped. My dies do the same thing. That ring is where the sizing die gets tight on the base of the case where it's not supported that well. The dies are taking the bulge out of the case and there is more pressure on the case right there.

 

[USMC22]

Thanks guys! Taking it slow and trying to make sure I'm doing it right. Really appreciate your help!

 

[.308 Norma]

I've pulled the "silver colored" brass, now I'm questioning the brass I'm using...

Oh no, I'm sorry I mentioned it. The "silver colored" brass is probably nickel-plated brass, and that's fine. In fact, some people prefer nickel-plated brass cases. Aluminum cases on the other hand, are "aluminum" colored (not bright silver) and you can probably tell they're lighter weight just by feel. Aluminum cases are not okay to try to reload.
Again, I apologize if I added to the confusion with a question that probably didn't need asking.

 

[USMC22]

Oh no, I'm sorry I mentioned it. The "silver colored" brass is probably nickel-plated brass, and that's fine. In fact, some people prefer nickel-plated brass cases. Aluminum cases on the other hand, are "aluminum" colored (not bright silver) and you can probably tell they're lighter weight just by feel. Aluminum cases are not okay to try to reload.
Again, I apologize if I added to the confusion with a question that probably didn't need asking.

Gotta do some digging around to see if I can find some aluminum cases to tell the difference

 

[Walkalong]

Not unusual since the case is tapered and most inserts are not. My old Lee 9MM sizer has a long tapered carbide inser and does not do that. Neither does my Redding, but it does leave a "bulge" where it stops. If the spot on the cases is just an abrupt diameter change, you're OK, but if it is leaving a slight ridge on the cases the entrance to the carbide ring is not right. I had a Redding sizer in .45 ACP that would do this, and since Redding told me I was sizing cases wrong, I replaced it with another brand, which does not do it. I have sworn off Redding as a first or second choice in general due to that. They have many great products though, so I haven't sworn Redding off entirely. RCBS is my default first choice in dies, although I have many brands.

If Lee still makes 9MM sizer with a long tapered insert, that is the way to go.

 

[USMC22]

Is the aluminum just a dull silver?

 

[.308 Norma]

Is the aluminum just a dull silver?

Yeppers, it is.

 

[armoredman]

And the aluminum "brass" will have two flash holes inside, plus usually marked NR somewhere on the headstamp. Add it to your aluminum can collection for recycling.
The brass you posted look just fine, have fun!

 

[goldpelican]

And the aluminum "brass" will have two flash holes inside, plus usually marked NR somewhere on the headstamp. Add it to your aluminum can collection for recycling.

I'm finding a lot of boxer primed aluminum cases these days. The weight difference is a dead giveaway - you can tell the difference blindfolded even in 380s.

 

[armoredman]

Never seen one Boxer primed, that's both new and dangerous. Agree on weight.

 

[Tcruse]

I found an issue when I added a new gun to my collection that had a "match" barrel that is very tight. Most of my other guns are Glocks, that have a larger barrel and less support near the base. So, my reloads would sometimes "stick" in the chamber of the new gun. I was already sizing to the point of touching the base point. The solution that solved the problem was to get an undersized (.001 smaller) die from Lee (sold by a couple of different names). This resolved the problem. Now, I check every reload for size with a block that is designed to SAMII sizes.
Problem has been totally resolved.
As a side note, Aluminum boxer primed cases can be reloaded just as brass, they do not seem to last as long as brass but with careful inspection they work just fine.

 

[ants]

Never seen one Boxer primed, that's both new and dangerous.

Not new. I've seen them since about 2010, maybe a year earlier or later.
I still have some in my collection of oddball stuff. I even reloaded a few dozen.
After reloading and shooting twice, I find that the base expands much more rapidly
than brass cases, and the primer pocket gets loose after only a couple uses.
I also found that aluminum doesn't 'spring back' as tightly as brass,
so case mouth tension is reduced. Gotta be really, really careful about setback.
Also, case capacity is smaller (the ones I tested) so pressure is higher with same powder charge.
I wouldn't recommend reloading aluminum cases. Can be done, but not the best.

 

[ants]

Pics uploaded.

If you look inside one of those resized cases and measure to the bottom,
you'll find that the 'ring' on the outside coincides with the bottom of the case.
This is where the sizing die hits the immovable object (the base)
so the fit is really tight there. It makes a mark. It is harmless.

Just to be clear about the 'bulge'. It doesn't look like a bulge to me. It looks normal.

 

[fxvr5]

USMC22, you might find the information at the link below useful. See figure 4.

http://38super.net/Pages/Brass.html

 

[goldpelican]

Never seen one Boxer primed, that's both new and dangerous. Agree on weight.

Boxer primed aluminum 45 ACP. Had some 9mm as well.

 

[armoredman]

Guess since I don't buy new ammo except carry ammo for years, I have had no reason to notice Boxer primed alumajunk. I have agunsmith buddy who actually reloads steel cases sometimes, but saves that for special occasions as it is apparently a pain in the patoot. Thanks for the info.

 

[WessonOil]

I found an issue when I added a new gun to my collection that had a "match" barrel that is very tight. Most of my other guns are Glocks, that have a larger barrel and less support near the base. So, my reloads would sometimes "stick" in the chamber of the new gun. I was already sizing to the point of touching the base point. The solution that solved the problem was to get an undersized (.001 smaller) die from Lee (sold by a couple of different names). This resolved the problem. Now, I check every reload for size with a block that is designed to SAMII sizes.
Problem has been totally resolved.
As a side note, Aluminum boxer primed cases can be reloaded just as brass, they do not seem to last as long as brass but with careful inspection they work just fine.

I just recently experienced this with a new FX-9 carbine and addressed on these forums.
Was never an issue with a gazillion rounds loaded and fired through who knows how many pistols.
The solution was to run the rounds for the carbine back through a Lee factory crimp due with crime backed all the way off.

 

[rsrocket1]

Just make sure the finished cartridges "plunk" test properly for the chamber of the gun you intend to shoot them in.

Initially, I simply used the field stripped barrel of my gun to plunk test all my 9mm ammo, but now that I have four 9mm guns, I bought a Dillon case gauge for $15 which is set to minimum specs so I know all my rounds will fit in any 9mm gun. I do occasionally catch a round that won't pass and set it aside for reprocessing or disassembly. Much easier to do that at the loading bench than to deal with a jammed round at the range.