Accurizing a GLOCK
- Thread starter joed
- Start date
- Status
9teenEleven
Member
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2009
- Messages
- 186
Per the LWD barrels. They are no better or worse than stock Glock barrels. The only reason I see to get one is so you can get an inexpensive threaded barrel (My reason) or so you can get an inexpensive barrel to shoot lead if you reload.
Glock
Personal opinion from owning and shooting various Glock's. They are all quite accurate, at least those I've owned and fired. However it's difficult to obtain that accuracy because of the trigger. With a learning curve somewhat longer than other pistols. The factory trigger is a good combat trigger and a not so good target trigger. Nothing approaches a good 1911 for accuracy and ease of wringing it from the pistol.
Personal opinion from owning and shooting various Glock's. They are all quite accurate, at least those I've owned and fired. However it's difficult to obtain that accuracy because of the trigger. With a learning curve somewhat longer than other pistols. The factory trigger is a good combat trigger and a not so good target trigger. Nothing approaches a good 1911 for accuracy and ease of wringing it from the pistol.
thefamcnaj
Member
Glock seems as accurate as can be out of the box to me. If I knew how to post pics on a computer(sorry guys only know how to type) I'd show the groups I can get at 20 yards. The gun is more accurate than I am. I shoot the g23 better than any of the models I have.
Hickok45 can routinley het from 80 yards with a sub compact glock. He even has one video of hitting from 230 yards with the g27.
Anytime I take the glocks to the range with any other brand of gun I own, the glock is always more accurate. I out shoot my hk's and my ruger sr series pistols with my glocks. I don't know if thats a testimeant to the accuracy of the gun or if its just what I'm most practiced with.
Hickok45 can routinley het from 80 yards with a sub compact glock. He even has one video of hitting from 230 yards with the g27.
Anytime I take the glocks to the range with any other brand of gun I own, the glock is always more accurate. I out shoot my hk's and my ruger sr series pistols with my glocks. I don't know if thats a testimeant to the accuracy of the gun or if its just what I'm most practiced with.
The_Armed_Therapist
Member
Is this a joke? With the dozens of handguns that I've shot in my life, my Glock 22 is THE most accurate that I've shot. Perhaps some of that has to do with it being a good fit for me, personally... but that doesn't explain away being able to hit the same hole over and over and over again. I've shot a few 1911s and they were similar at best to the accuracy of my Glock.
LiveLife
Member
Factory stock G17/G22 have been my match pistols and they outshoot MOST other factory semi-autos in slow fire, rapid fire (front sight flash) and double-taps at 7-20 yards.FreedomFreak said:
But the OP is inquiring about accurizing Glocks in reference to 1911 level of accuracy.
This is not doable as inherent factory built-in mechanical accuracy was not designed/engineered to achieve the level of accuracy many match grade 1911 achieve out of the box.
My experience/observation with various semi-autos has been that Glocks can be accurized (trigger/barrel) to produce about 2.5"-3.0" average shot groups at 25 yards but many sub $500-$1000 1911s can produce this level of accuracy out of the box. Some 1911s in this price range (either factory or with some accurizing work) can produce sub 1" to 1.5" average shot groups at 25 yards. Personally, I have not seen such shot groups ever produced by a Glock.
Many have claimed accuracy of their "highly modified" Glocks at the ranges/matches but when put to actual range tests (I consider 3-5 consecutive targets an acceptable repeatable accuracy, not once-in-a-while fluke shot group), it ends up being that they improved the repeatability and smoothness of factory accuracy but could not come close to 1911 level of accuracy.
My personal best averages have been 3.0" shot group with G21/G30 (stock), 2.0"-2.5" with M&P45 (trigger job) and 1.5" with various 1911s (factory/modified).
socalbeachbum
Member
KKM or Bar-Sto?
Do Glock 34 owners see a difference in the KKM barrels vs the Bar-Sto? or are they similar quality and accuracy?
Do Glock 34 owners see a difference in the KKM barrels vs the Bar-Sto? or are they similar quality and accuracy?
The only Glock "accurizing" I've done is to replace a couple of connectors and triggers and do a few 25¢ trigger jobs.
The trigger on my Gen4 19 was heavier than optimal for me so I replaced the stock connector the 4.5# connector. That connector was formally referred to as the 3.5# connector. This improved the trigger pull significantly and my groups shrank accordingly. As soon as it arrives, I'm doing the same on my G23 with a Ghost "Ranger" 4.5# connector. I'm expecting the same improvement but we'll see.
I also replace the grooved trigger assembly on my G26 and G27 with the smooth faced variety. Shooting is now less wearing on my trigger finger and I can maintain smaller groupings longer. Maybe can't really call this and the connector replacements "accurizing" in the traditional sense, but doing so helped me.
The 25¢ trigger jobs did basically nothing. Trigger pulls were no worse but then I didn't do any really aggressive polishing. The shiny little parts look nice though.
I've seen third party trigger assemblies for Glocks that are supposed to improve shootability and thereby accuracy. They are in the range of $250 each and, quite frankly, the marginal gain my experience tells me they'd provide is simply not worth it.
I also have a bunch of Lone Wolf barrels and they work fine. Their chambers are, in fact, tighter than my OEM barrels, but if they're more accurate than the Glock barrels I can't tell it.
Glocks are combat weapons with combat accuracy and there's a reason for that. If you have to have a home defense piece that shoots 1" at 50 yards, start out with one that will do that and not try and turn a sow’s ear into a silk purse. A good, tuned 1911 immediately comes to mind.
The trigger on my Gen4 19 was heavier than optimal for me so I replaced the stock connector the 4.5# connector. That connector was formally referred to as the 3.5# connector. This improved the trigger pull significantly and my groups shrank accordingly. As soon as it arrives, I'm doing the same on my G23 with a Ghost "Ranger" 4.5# connector. I'm expecting the same improvement but we'll see.
I also replace the grooved trigger assembly on my G26 and G27 with the smooth faced variety. Shooting is now less wearing on my trigger finger and I can maintain smaller groupings longer. Maybe can't really call this and the connector replacements "accurizing" in the traditional sense, but doing so helped me.
The 25¢ trigger jobs did basically nothing. Trigger pulls were no worse but then I didn't do any really aggressive polishing. The shiny little parts look nice though.
I've seen third party trigger assemblies for Glocks that are supposed to improve shootability and thereby accuracy. They are in the range of $250 each and, quite frankly, the marginal gain my experience tells me they'd provide is simply not worth it.
I also have a bunch of Lone Wolf barrels and they work fine. Their chambers are, in fact, tighter than my OEM barrels, but if they're more accurate than the Glock barrels I can't tell it.
Glocks are combat weapons with combat accuracy and there's a reason for that. If you have to have a home defense piece that shoots 1" at 50 yards, start out with one that will do that and not try and turn a sow’s ear into a silk purse. A good, tuned 1911 immediately comes to mind.
Last edited:
Accuracy is a funny thing. Odds are that the gun came from the factory being far more accurate than you can shoot...I don't know what model Glock you have but caliber will play a major role in accuracy. Not because one caliber is more accurate than another one but because you may not shoot some calibers as well as others. To be honest you should practice, practice and then practice some more rather than replacing parts in the hopes that they will make you a better shooter.
My Gen4 Glock 19 has up and down movement in the barrel when locked up and I can put an entire magazine into one hole at 10 yards. That's pretty damn accurate from the factory.
My Gen4 Glock 19 has up and down movement in the barrel when locked up and I can put an entire magazine into one hole at 10 yards. That's pretty damn accurate from the factory.
This is true, but triggers do vary, some are quite bad and "trigger jobs" have been a standard gun smithing task for decades.
The trigger on my 1991 vintage Gen2 Glock 20 is smooth and about as good as it gets at 5.2#. The trigger on my Gen4 19 was heavy and "jerky". It measured just shy of 8# and it had the standard connector ... 5.5# I think it's called.
With time, practice and patience you can certainly overcome a "bad" trigger. But when a Glock trigger "fix" is nothing more than replacing the connector, as it was with my Gen4 19, it's a worthwhile thing to do.
Lone Wolf has Glock 5# connectors $5 right now. I think I paid $14-$15 for the 4.5# one.
He has hit that 3' gong with a Jframe or Taurus m85. (?) I certainly would have better luck hitting it by throwing that gun at the gong.
Personally instead of tossing money at a gun to make it accurate, I would rather buy one that is already known to be...
Lots of unadulterated horsehockey in this thread! 
I've had excellent experience with Wolff springs and guide rods, and I've fired over 300,000 rounds through my Glocks, mostly using Wolff springs and guide rods .
The factory Glock slide lock is made of steel! JHC!! Where does some of this ignorant drivel come from?
I've also had excellent experience with LWD barrels, connectors, and other products. Recently received a threaded LWD barrel for my G17, and the fit, finish, and accuracy are super.
I install aftermarket connectors in all my Glocks...can't stand the the pull of any of the Glock factory connectors.
I'd hazard a guess that any accuracy problems that the OP is experiencing could be cured by proper tuning of the nut behind the trigger.
I've had excellent experience with Wolff springs and guide rods, and I've fired over 300,000 rounds through my Glocks, mostly using Wolff springs and guide rods .
The factory Glock slide lock is made of steel! JHC!! Where does some of this ignorant drivel come from?
I've also had excellent experience with LWD barrels, connectors, and other products. Recently received a threaded LWD barrel for my G17, and the fit, finish, and accuracy are super.
I install aftermarket connectors in all my Glocks...can't stand the the pull of any of the Glock factory connectors.
I'd hazard a guess that any accuracy problems that the OP is experiencing could be cured by proper tuning of the nut behind the trigger.
Way back in the early days of my shooting obsession, I acquired a number of Smith and Wesson revolvers. Recently my wife wanted to try one. She's a relatively new shooter and up until that point she shot only semi auto hand guns. I pulled out one of my old Smith model 19s. It's a deep blued beauty with one of the best triggers I've ever felt. The double action pull is as smooth as the proverbial butter. The single action breaks at a hair over 3.5# and there is no creep or over travel. And it came that way and it's not a performance center gun. Guns at that time were built by craftsmen and not assembly line workers.
To say the least, my wife was most impressed with what is a really, really good trigger. In single action mode, the lockup is solid but you can almost "wish off" the shot.
After shooting it, she asked why semi autos can't have triggers like that. Talk about a simple question with a not so simple answer. But she liked the revolver so much, she bought a GP100. New Wolff springs and a little work with an old stone I have and its trigger is very nice now and the investment was mostly time and springs are cheap. You just have to take your time to get it right and that's a major difference between today's guns and those of my youth with immediate gratification being the norm.
The way I see it today, and I'm guessing you may see it sort of like I do, there are two basic types of guns: combat and target. Or maybe, combat and those that can be realistically and reasonably made to have certain target-like features. And most combat guns will better serve you if you just leave them alone or make your "fixes" true refinements and not wholesale modifications.
Pretty much....
I see a lot of posts for triggers this, connecters this, yet only one or two talking about replacing those 0.10 cent sights that Glock should be ashamed of putting on a 500 dollar gun.
The only guns in my home that I havent done trigger work to is my Glocks FWIW.
10mmbowser
Member
- Joined
- Feb 27, 2014
- Messages
- 2
I don't shoot 1911s so I don't know how accurate they are. With a stock Glock 20 (gen3) I can get 1" groups with my laser and sandbags at 25 yds. On my Glock 21 with a complete Glockworx Fulcrum trigger kit (titanium strker), Lonewolf .40 Super conversion barrel, Carver Hunter scope mount, and Nikon Force XR 2x20 on a benchrest, I can get a 3/4" cloverleaf print at 25 yds. As was asked by someone else, what kinda groups are you capable of to begin with? I don't think I can achieve anywhere near that kind of accuracy with open sights, especially the stock sights. ALSO, keep in mind the ammo you test accuracy with, can make a HUGE difference. There are many factors that can affect your precision/accuracy, so you should rule out the ammo aspect by using VERY accurate bullets. XTP bullets from Hornady have a very good reputation for accuracy, and it is what I use test accuracy.
Nom de Forum
Member
Damn! You beat me to it!
Glock "perfection" can be perfected some more by people more than happy to take your money to make perfect more perfecter.
My experience with Lone Wolf barrels (for G20 and G29) is they are sloppier than stock. (I also have issues with their manufacturing location being a big secret... but that is another subject.) After sending two LW barrels back, I switched to KKM. Night and day difference in both fit and finish. Can't comment in accuracy between LW and KKM because I sent my LW barrels back before I shot them. I shoot hot 10mm loads and have had zero issues with KKM.
The reason that Colt 1911 platform guns can be accurized is because the removable bushing at the front allows the barrel to be pulled forward when the upper unit is being disassembled. On a Glock, and many other pistols the barrel is removed by tilting the barrel down and pulling the barrel out backwards. Thus the Glock has a relatively large hole in the front of the slide to allow this.
At the back the barrel is camed upwards, but with some slack to insure that fouling, dirt (whatever) won't prevent the slide/barrel from going into battery.
Slide-to-frame fit isn't particularly important, but barrel-to-slide fit is.
If maximum accuracy was more important then absolute reliability a Glock could be fitted with a threaded barrel bushing, and the bottom lug on the barrel welded up and custom fitted. The resulting pistol might give Colt's a run for the money, but it would be very expensive, and that's not what Glock's are about anyway.
Also relatively few shooters would be good enough to take advantage of the difference.
At the back the barrel is camed upwards, but with some slack to insure that fouling, dirt (whatever) won't prevent the slide/barrel from going into battery.
Slide-to-frame fit isn't particularly important, but barrel-to-slide fit is.
If maximum accuracy was more important then absolute reliability a Glock could be fitted with a threaded barrel bushing, and the bottom lug on the barrel welded up and custom fitted. The resulting pistol might give Colt's a run for the money, but it would be very expensive, and that's not what Glock's are about anyway.
Also relatively few shooters would be good enough to take advantage of the difference.
This. If you take a $500 1911, a $500 S&W or a $500 Glock, all are usually gonna be "combat accurate". If you compare a $3000 STI race gun against a bone stock Glock, of course the STI is gonna be more accurate. I do think the biggest issue is the individual. Glocks, with their unique triggers, can be harder for some to shoot accurately.
Nom de Forum
Member
A tighter fit between the muzzle and slide is far less important than the lock-up at the lugs and hood on a 1911. If we had the Glock and not the Beretta I am sure the AMU would have the Glocks shooting just as well and possibly using a bushing for the muzzle/slide fit.
LiveLife
Member
G29SF said:
I did a comparison range test between KKM and Lone Wolf 40-9 barrels for another thread and these were my initial results (Not the best groups as I was testing Herco for the thread but same testing platform can produce 1" at 15 yards. I plan on doing further range testing for the thread) - http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=9375885
Picture of shot groups:
Your barrel has to move when you press down on it, perhaps this will explain it better.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vxVWchJt1go,
That is just the way these guns function. Unless you get a gun with a blowback design, or any un movable barrel, Like a Luger or a Ruger 22, the barrel is supposed to move after the shot is fired. You can get the G34,35, 17L, or new 41, and get a longer "probably more accurate" gun because of the sight radius and a bit more fps for the same reason. More like a cross between a 26 and a carbine.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vxVWchJt1go,
That is just the way these guns function. Unless you get a gun with a blowback design, or any un movable barrel, Like a Luger or a Ruger 22, the barrel is supposed to move after the shot is fired. You can get the G34,35, 17L, or new 41, and get a longer "probably more accurate" gun because of the sight radius and a bit more fps for the same reason. More like a cross between a 26 and a carbine.
When the slide and barrel are fully into battery, you can hand-fit a barrel with an oversized bottom lug so it cams the barrel to the point where there is no detectable movement. However if enough fouling has built up at the top/rear of the barrel the slide may not go into battery.
High accuracy modifications without regard to cost can be done on almost any pistol that is designed to use Browning's short-recoil system. However at some point the increase in accuracy will impact reliability. Take your choice.
High accuracy modifications without regard to cost can be done on almost any pistol that is designed to use Browning's short-recoil system. However at some point the increase in accuracy will impact reliability. Take your choice.
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked