Adjusting Resdding S-type bushing die

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cacoltguy

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I just bought a Redding type-S FL bushing resizing die. I've followed the instructions provided by Redding but it only seems to be resizing 2/3's of the neck. The die is making firm contact with the shell holder in the ram of the press and the shoulder is being bumped back adequately but the full length of the neck is not being resized (which is what I want). I screw the decapping rod assembly until it makes contact with the bushing and then back it of 1/16 of a turn (as per Redding's instructions) which theoretically should resize all of the neck. Anyone use this die before and figured out how to resize the entire length of the neck?
 
Those bushings have a chamfer on each end.. one end is deeper..try turning end for end. I notice the neck isn't sized right down to shoulder ( probably due to chamfers). I am loading for .22 Hornet, .222 Rem. & 7X57. Since I normally only size about 1/32"-1/16past bullet seating depth anyway it is no big deal. Why the concern for entire neck sized? The way I look at it, the unsized portion of neck is noticably larger in dia. than sized portion..and this of course adds to case centering in chamber.
 
Quoting ".22-5-40": "Why the concern for entire neck sized?"

I recently got this bushing die, and I too was wondering about the implications of sizing the neck entirely or partially.

Looking forward to the technical discussion - please!!!!!! :)
 
and then back it of 1/16 of a turn (as per Redding's instructions)

Tighten it up all the way then see how much of the neck is sized. If you still only have 2/3 of the neck sized call Redding.

I have a few Type S bushing dies and they all leave a little bit of the neck unsized, but 1/3 unsized No Way!
 
I use the Redding type S die for my 22-250 and while it does not size all the way down it does provide enough neck tension on the bullet.
If the neck sizer went any further down it would be pushing down the shoulder and wouldn't be too good.
 
Thanks for the info guys. I tried screwing the decapping assembly down all the way (as well as flipping the bushing the other way around) and roughly 1/4 of the neck is still not resized. It's probably no big deal but I was just wondering if this is normal for these dies. As far as why do I want all of the neck resized? Well this will be for my AR-15 and I'd rather have it this way for reliability and functionality reasons. I do have a redding competition neck sizing die with the bushing set up and micrometer knob for my .308 and by adjusting the knob I am able to size a portion or all of the neck if I want. No such luck with this Type-S die though. As long as the rounds feed reliably and are accurate I'll probably just roll with it.
 
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You do not want to resize the entire neck, if you do, you will create a problem at the junction of neck and shoulder. Follow Redding's instructions regarding how to find the right sizing button..... good luck
 
Thanks for the info guys. I tried screwing the decapping assembly down all the way (as well as flipping the bushing the other way around) and roughly 1/4 of the neck is still not resized. It's probably no big deal but I was just wondering if this is normal for these dies. As far as why do I want all of the neck resized? Well this will be for my AR-15 and I'd rather have it this way for reliability and functionality reasons. I do have a redding competition neck sizing die with the bushing set up and micrometer knob for my .308 and by adjusting the knob I am able to size a portion or all of the neck if I want. No such luck with this Type-S die though. As long as the rounds feed reliably and are accurate I'll probably just roll with it.

It is normal to not size the whole neck.This is actually advantageous in bolt guns as the un-sized portion of the neck helps center the cartridge in the chamber and bolt guns have lots of camming power so the little bit of in-sized neck at the shoulder junction will not cause problems.
I would not load for semi-autos with "S" dies.

Screw the decapping stem all the way down until it stops on top of the bushing, but then crack it loose 1/8 of a turn so that the bushing is floating in there a little bit.
Now lock the adjustment at that point and re-adjust the decapping stem protrusion to 1/4" from te bottom of the die if it is less than 1/4" now.
If you clamp the neck bushing down tight, you won't let it float in there like it is designed to.
when you adjust the decapping stem protrusion from the bottom of the die, you pull the whole stem back out of the die and adjust the decapping stem in and out of the plug that threads into the top of the die.
 
Right I see the point about partial neck sizing for bolt guns but this is to be used with my AR which I use in High Power competitions, thus the desire to have all of the neck resized for reliable feeding. I didn't know S dies weren't considered good for auto loaders when I bought it. I purchased it because I liked the idea of getting just the right amount of neck tension with the brass and bullets I use. The bushing and die are assembled correctly and the decapping assebly is backed off per reddings instructions to allow the bushing to float slightly, but still part of the neck is left unsized. Perhaps ill just stick with my normal resizing setup for ARs
 
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I prefer to only size part of the neck, even when FL sizing. I think it prevents doughnuts inside the neck/shoulder area, works the brass less, and helps accuracy.
 
Well persoonally I think accuracy advabtages are debateable. Most benchrest shooters FL rezize the entire case with a custom die. I went through a neck sizing only phase and didn't see any benefit to it regardless of how much or little of the neck I resized. But that's a whole other debate. Even if it were true I still want all of the neck resized for reliable feeding. I would actually think that only resizing part of the neck would form a donut in the neck area, which is something id like to avoid.
 
Right I see the point about partial neck sizing for bolt guns but this is to be used with my AR which I use in High Power competitions, thus the desire to have all of the neck resized for reliable feeding. I didn't know S dies weren't considered good for auto loaders when I bought it. I purchased it because I liked the idea of getting just the right amount of neck tension with the brass and bullets I use. The bushing and die are assembled correctly and the decapping assebly is backed off per reddings instructions to allow the bushing to float slightly, but still part of the neck is left unsized. Perhaps ill just stick with my normal resizing setup for ARs

Forester makes a bushing die setup with bushings that have the shoulder in them.
They get rid of the unsized ring that the redding leaves.
The bushings only come in 0.002" steps, but you should still be able to where you need to be.

The other way to adjust your neck tension is take a regular sizing die and have the neck opened up to the size you want.
I think it runs about $30 to have a neck honed out to a custom size.
 
I don't think Redding recommends Type S dies for gas guns.
Anyway, 80% neck sizing is all you're going to get from a Type S.
Heres how to adjust it....
When setting up a Type-S sizing die, set the neck bushing into the die with the numbers facing down toward the body of the die. Tighten the de-capping assembly until it contacts the bushing and then back it off ¼ of a turn. This allows the bushing to free float in the die. You should be able to hear the bushing rattle if you shake the die. Having the bushing free floating self centers the neck, and again minimizes any run-out that can occur.
 
Lee Collet die and Redding body die. Works for gas or bolt guns. No donuts. Straight ammo.
 
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