Air gun scope (preferably illuminated reticle)

[basicblur]

Got my first air gun (for squirrel control) on the way - need suggestions for a replacement scope, preferably with an illuminated dot (maybe not the entire reticle).

While the dot is not illuminated, I'm currently using the Nikon Prostaff Target EFR 3-9x40 as my baseline.

Suggestions? (looking for quality air rifle specific scopes can be tough).

Thanks

 

[basicblur]

From my other thread started (regarding the rifle), here's most of the same post regarding what I've found with scopes so far...

Well I went thru my drawer of "spare optics", and had to do a little research to see which would stand up to the reverse recoil of an air rifle.

1. Bushnell Throw Down PCL - was told an air rifle would tear it apart (this really sucks).
2. Bushnell TRS 25 - confusion, but was told they "think" it would be OK since it doesn't have a wire reticle (wait...neither does the PCL!?).
3. Was told either Trophy Extreme or Legend HD series could handle reverse recoil.
4. When I called back to ask why the TRS 25 "probably could" handle reverse recoil and the PCL could not (after all, neither has a wire reticle), I got slightly different answers again! (don't you just love customer service!?)
3. Trijicon - was told my SRS would "take anything you throw at it".
4. EOTech - their FAQs page says it will stand up to the reverse recoil of air rifles and crossbows.
5. Nikon - guy says the only thing designed for air rifles is their ProStaff Target EFR.
6. Vortex - they say all their scopes can handle reverse recoil, but recommended the Diamondback 4-12x40 AO for the AO / close range capability.

That old Trijicon SRS ought to look right at home on top of the air rifle I ordered! (Hey, if it gets the job done....).

'Bout everything I have has QR mounts, so I was hoping I could fish out a few spare optics to play with when the OEM scope goes belly up, but it seems my first choice (Throw Down PCL) is a no-go.

Right now my current baseline scope(s) are:
1. Nikon ProStaff Target EFR.
2. Vortex Diamondback 4-12x40.

Unfortunately, neither have illuminated reticles, but I "may" be able to live without illumination, especially if it means going from a questionable optic (one of which has 36 different color reticles!) to something with more of a track record / reputation.

 

[RecoilRob]

Centerpoint makes some decent quality airgun scopes that might work well for you: http://www.pyramydair.com/a/Accessories/Scopes/92/brands_120

 

[basicblur]

Got my Jim Shockey Steel Eagle in, scope mounted, and almost sighted in.

It came with a Centerpoint 3-9x 32mm scope - as usual, it's not even listed on Crosman's website, so I assume it's a "special" built to a price point.

So far, so good - guess I'll live with it until / if it goes belly up or I just feel like replacing.

So far it looks like my first option for replacement would be the Nikon Prostaff 3-9x EFR, but I'm still looking.

 

[readyeddy]

Here's a link to the Hawke 2-7 IR. It's ok glass and should stand up to you springer.

http://www.pyramydair.com/s/a/Hawke...luminated_Mil_Dot_Reticle_1_4_MOA_1_Tube/3864

 

[basicblur]

Here's a link to the Hawke 2-7 IR. It's ok glass and should stand up to you springer.

Thanks - Hawke will be on my short list.

I downloaded their ballistics program and app - might end up with one of their scopes!

Had never heard of Hawke until someone steered me toward their ballistics software, and didn't realize Pyramid Air sold their scopes.

 

[basicblur]

Here's a link to the Hawke 2-7 IR. It's ok glass and should stand up to you springer.

I see that particular scope is available from retailers, but I called Hawke this morning to see what she recommended, telling her I was using the Nikon ProStaff EFR as my baseline.

She told me:
1. The Sport HD line has been eliminated (the above referenced scope).
2. Some Sport HD scopes have been eliminated or moved up into their Airmax line.
3. The only scopes in the Airmax line that have illuminated reticles is their SF 30 series, which is both too pricey and has that huge zoom wheel on the side (as used in competition?) - doesn't fit my need / wallet.

At this time both the Nikon and Hawke are my baselines - still researching, but I'd probably give the Hawke a try just for something different, and I do like the reticle better than Nikon's.

 

[RecoilRob]

The big side wheel is really a handy device for field shooting seeing as it has range marking on it and when you focus the objective on the target you then get a very close estimate of range which you then can apply with the mil-dot's and make a good hit. If it's not needed in a backyard...agree it's overkill.

Oh...that's another thing about scopes that might be worth mentioning is the fixed parallax distance is normally 100 yds on a rifle scope but I think it's 50 for a dedicated airgun version. Many airgun scopes will focus down below 10 yds where many rifle scopes will not. If shooting indoors at 10m is on the desired list...the airgun scopes normally work better.

 

[Sug008]

My Gammo Hunter Extreme ate it's own scope in less than 400 pellets. If you don't recognize the rifle by name, it's huge. Pyramydair recommended the UTG Leapers 3-12x44 AO 30 mm. They told me it would have no problem standing up to the recoil. It is mil-dot, illuminated reticle, and so far so good. Huge scope though.

 

[basicblur]

I just got off the phone with both Pyramid and Hawke - Hawke says move up to the Airmax line for airguns, but it seems they've dropped illuminated reticles as they're rare in the Airmax line (unless you get into pricey stuff).

Pyramid recommended the Leapers True Hunter if I wanted a 3-9 with illuminated reticle, but I'm a bit leery of Leapers and stuff like 36 color reticles - I just need red and maybe green (2 colors should be plenty).

At this point I'm getting so frustrated I may just stick with the scope that came with the gun until I can get exactly what I want, or until the OEM scope goes belly up.

 

[readyeddy]

I wouldn't worry about the Hawke model being discontinued. So long as it's still being offered with a lifetime warranty, I would just go ahead and buy it. If it survives 500 shots during the first 30 days (exchange period), then it just may survive for years to come. If it breaks in the future, then they will probably give you an upgraded model.

I own two and I never use the illuminated reticles (red and green). I bought the scope for its etched reticles, which they say are more durable, and its low price.

 

[basicblur]

If it breaks in the future, then they will probably give you an upgraded model.

That's pretty much what the guy at Hawke told me, although he said he didn't like to do so and not to tell anybody!

At this point I'm torn between spending the money in order to get it before it disappears and just waiting if / when the OEM scope goes belly up.

Everybody keeps trying to talk me out of illuminated reticles, but when I borrowed the Beeman R1 with a Leupold, first time I put in on a squirrel in the shadows it was tough to see the reticle - I think the particular model Leupold he had probably had an extremely fine reticle, which I also don't care for.

I have a spare Bushnell Throw Down PCL in my drawer - it also has an etched reticle, but Bushnell said an air rifle would tear it apart. Maybe there's more to building a scope for air rifle use than the reticle - lots of folks tout etched reticle over wire for air guns (I'm sure that's true) - don't know what else the PCL wouldn't handle, although I'm not so sure about the info I got from Bushnell.

 

[readyeddy]

Come to think of it, I've never shot my rifles in the shadows. Well, if I needed IR, I would get the Hawke now. The OEM scope can be a back up.

It is big and heavy, but it's also tough and cheap.

 

[cobalt327]

Leapers/UTG Bug Busters are generally good, low priced scopes suitable for airgun use. The one I have is illuminated (just red or green, no 'EZ-TAP Illumination Enhancing (IE) System 36 color' business), adjustable objective down to 3 yards. Comes w/rings and batteries. I paid <$70.00 to my door from Amazon during a sale.

More: http://www.leapers.com/prod_detail.php?itemno=SCP-M392AOLWQ

 

[basicblur]

I (finally) decided on the Hawke Vantage 3-9×40 AO MIL DOT IR - should arrive from Pyramid Air Wednesday. I also have a set of their scope rings on the way - I like the double bolts in both the rings and at the mounts - should be a little more stout for air rifle use.

While browsing Hawke's site, I saw they have a lot of interesting BDC reticle scopes for .22 supersonic, .22 subsonic, 17 HMR, 22 WMR, and more. Not sure if they're FFP reticles, as I didn't get that far before I decided to Google ".22 subsonic reticle" to see what else is out there.

My search came up with the Pride Fowler RR Evolution 22LR.

Did a little research, like their dual reticle (supersonic and subsonic .22), it's illuminated, and FFP - got one of those on the way to put on my Savage FV-SR.
I shoot a lot of subsonic (with silencer) on the FV-SR, so the dual velocity reticle will make it easy / quick to shoot both subsonic and supersonic .22.

BTW - my hit ratio on squirrels was only around 50% - the factory trigger sucks, so I had to go looking for info on the trigger. Found a video showing how to set it up, which happens to be exactly the opposite from the owner manual instructions, which are poorly / confusingly written (Benjamin Jim Shockey Steel Eagle .22).

I would have eventually gotten there as it was time to experiment, but after setting up my trigger my hit ratio has gone to around 95% - hopefully more to come as I tweak on the trigger and scope.

 

[Ohen Cepel]

Not sure which rifle you have but there are Charlie the Tuna triggers out there for many of them which will help a lot. Or, a roller bearing mod which also works on many of them.

I did the roller bearing mod on my Nitro Venom and it helped a lot!

If you take the springers or piston guns apart you may need a tool to compress them to get them back together. I found a long Dewalt wood working clamp works and I was able to get it at my local Home Depot.

If you have a suppressed Savage why not stick with that?

 

[cobalt327]

From his other thread he got a Benjamin Jim Shockey Steel Eagle NP2 in .22. Charlie Tuna makes an aftermarket trigger to fit it, I think it's the CBR model. I have his GRT-III trigger on my Gamo Shadow and it's a nice improvement over factory.

Wondering what became of the 3-9x32 scope that comes w/the Steel Eagle? haha

 

[basicblur]

If you have a suppressed Savage why not stick with that?

Location - I wanted something with less power.

 

[basicblur]

Wondering what became of the 3-9x32 scope that comes w/the Steel Eagle?

It's still plugging along, although I probably haven't quite hit the 100 rd. mark yet?

 

[basicblur]

I did give the Charlie DaTuna site a look / see - also watched the installation video - I'll file that away for a possible future mod.

I don't know that there's anything wrong with the pull weight on the trigger, but is could be smoother / a little more crisp / tactile than the OEM unit.

Do the replacement triggers help any in that regard, or do they just lower the pull weight?

 

[cobalt327]

I felt a difference for the better in smoothness right off- and my trigger wasn't terrible to begin with other than a way-too-high pull. I only have a few shots on the new trigger and only a few hundred shots on the gun. I suspect it will only get better as I put more use on it. I use a different trigger than your gun takes, so my experience might not mean much.

I'd put some rounds through your gun before changing anything. There's videos and such on adjusting the factory trigger- that may be all it needs. Anyway, that's a fine gun.

 

[basicblur]

Anyway, that's a fine gun

The squirrels would disagree with you!

After getting the trigger adjusted close to the best it will be, I'm duly impressed.

I'm happy with the quality / accuracy - won't know about durability 'til down the road a bit.

The factory screwed up the trigger adjustment as delivered AFA being a starting point when adjusting per instructions. Somebody at the factory apparently had mine set almost at full pull weight - had to back off and work my way back to find the sweet spot.

I do like the fact that you can leave the Nitro Piston 2 cocked longer than you can a springer - if I don't get a shot off without spooking 'em, I can leave it a while and catch 'em when they come back.

Folks tell me you shouldn't leave a springer cocked more than an hour or so - don't know what the time limit (if any?) is on the Nitro Piston 2.

 

[cobalt327]

You'd want to 'exercise' the piston occasionally to stop any chance of it sticking to the bore but we're talking months here. Certainly leaving it cocked for the day will not hurt in the least.

 

[RecoilRob]

The factories are VERY concerned with the triggers and will default to heavy and safe every time...especially when it comes to the very powerful break barrel guns. I know you probably don't need the warnings...but the consequences are SO severe that it's worth the chance to remind you to control the barrel at all times when loading and until it's latched securely back and ready to fire. If the trigger slips off the piston when it's still broken those suckers will bite you but good! Have seen pics of missing digits and even if it doesn't draw blood the slamming shut at high speed thing is guaranteed to bend the crap out of the barrel. Not good all around.

So even once you hear and feel the trigger 'click' as it engages the piston...best to keep good hold of the barrel with your off hand while loading. Sorry to be redundant and I'm not accusing you of being a newb... Just would rather be safe than someone else sorry and if something happend that I could have possibly prevented by mentioning a caution I'd feel horrible afterwards...as would you.

Back to triggers: I've (of course) adjusted all of mine and the spring-guns just don't have quite as nice a trigger as the PCP or SSP guns will. There's something about holding back the powerful piston that requires such a strong lock-up that it's hard to make them release as nicely as on a good powder burner though come of them can come pretty close. The Record type triggers feel pretty darn nice...but I'm not sure what is in the Benjamin you have and I hope you will leave the sear engagement safe enough to not have an AD if you happen to jar it. I can't tell you how many times I've made triggers 'just right'...only to find they were actually dangerous as all get-out and I had to take back some of the 'right' to make them safe enough to actually use. Once you get used to even a heavy trigger you can do good work with it so time will surely tell how you get along with the new tree-rat slayer.

I've had a bunch of them apart and haven't found one yet that didn't seem to respond to a little smoothing with the stones though for a mass produced trigger they're mostly not too badly made. After you've fired about 1000 shots the whole gun should be getting smoother and starting to show its' full potential. Some will shoot well right out of the box, but lots seem to take a couple tins or three to settle down for some reason. Good shooting on the rats!

 

[basicblur]

I know you probably don't need the warnings...but the consequences are SO severe that it's worth the chance to remind you to control the barrel at all times when loading and until it's latched securely back and ready to fire. If the trigger slips off the piston when it's still broken those suckers will bite you but good!

Thanks for the warning - I'm plenty safe with regular firearms, but the spring piston guns apparently have at least one extra thing you have to worry about (an out of control barrel).

Been doing a lot of reading / watching videos - seems the Nitro Piston units aren't quite as finicky AFA shooting compared to an old springer.

I've about got my trigger adjusted - I have no problem with the pull weight - I grew up on DA revolvers and have always preferred a trigger pull heavier than most these days, especially newbies.

Pull weight is fine, and I have the 2-stage trigger adjusted where you can pull it and hit the wall, without upping the pull weight adjustment.

I doubt that I'll mess with a replacement trigger - maybe way down the line - I've got to put enough rounds thru it to break everything in / smooth the action.

BTW - since adjusting the trigger and getting a little practice (and maybe the barrel is breaking in), my hit rat on tree rats is approaching 100%.

I'm currently using the scope that came with the gun, but got my Hawke Vantage IR 3-9x40mm the other day.
Unfortunately, I got the wrong rings - got to wait a few days for the correct rings to arrive.