Hello, I have a Glock 22, 40 cal and have put 8-10,000 rounds through it. Recently, I started to experience "light primer hits," where the round wouldn't fire and after ejecting the round, I noticed a small primer indentation. I've never had this happen before and have shot all kinds of ammo through it. I'm not a Glock armorer, but suspect its something with the firing pin apparatus, any ideas??? As a side not, I keep my firearms very clean and only put a small amount of oil on the required areas. I've had it detailed stripped/cleaned about 4 times now and may be due for another.
any Glock-smiths out there know the answer?
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jackpinesavages
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What have you done for parts replacement in 8-10K rds.?
jackpinesavages
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Do you want the Glock part #s?
o Unforgiven o
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nevermind
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jackpinesavages
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Firing pin: SP 04270 Spring: SP00063
Recoil Spring: SP01533
And, clean out the pin channel as described above. If you can't do it send me a PM.
Recoil Spring: SP01533
And, clean out the pin channel as described above. If you can't do it send me a PM.
LiveLife
Member
smartshot, I competed with 2 G22's the last 15 years and seen this problem several times on several other G22's.
The problem is that you have fouling build up inside the striker channel wall that is packed tight just behind the breech face of the slide. This holds back the striker pin from making full indent on the primer cup and results in lighter primer strike and/or failure to fire. Normal inspection of the striker channel won't reveal this problem as (even with a light source pointing down) the bottom of the striker channel will look normal (the build up of packed fouling is very thin).
To fix the problem, you need to remove the striker and scrape out the "hard caked on" fouling at the bottom of the striker channel tube - I dripped some Hoppes #9 to soak and used a small flat head screwdriver to chip away and eventually scrape clean the fouling build up. Be sure to clear/clean the rectangle hole the striker pin goes through.
The channel must be dry, free from oil or solvent - so clean and dry it well. Clean and dry the striker well and re-assemble the slide. For all the light primer strike Glocks I worked on, replacement of the striker was not necessary and they all returned to shooting reliable again.
The problem is that you have fouling build up inside the striker channel wall that is packed tight just behind the breech face of the slide. This holds back the striker pin from making full indent on the primer cup and results in lighter primer strike and/or failure to fire. Normal inspection of the striker channel won't reveal this problem as (even with a light source pointing down) the bottom of the striker channel will look normal (the build up of packed fouling is very thin).
To fix the problem, you need to remove the striker and scrape out the "hard caked on" fouling at the bottom of the striker channel tube - I dripped some Hoppes #9 to soak and used a small flat head screwdriver to chip away and eventually scrape clean the fouling build up. Be sure to clear/clean the rectangle hole the striker pin goes through.
The channel must be dry, free from oil or solvent - so clean and dry it well. Clean and dry the striker well and re-assemble the slide. For all the light primer strike Glocks I worked on, replacement of the striker was not necessary and they all returned to shooting reliable again.
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fastbolt
Member
The last Wearable Parts Replacement Schedule I received from Glock for Glock .40's in-service with LE lists the following parts & recommended replacement intervals for the G22 (Gen 3 and earlier):
Recoil spring - 2,500 rounds
Magazine spring - 2,500 - 4,000 rounds
Firing pin safety & spring - 5,000 rounds
Firing pin spring - 5,000 rounds
Slide lock - 5,000 rounds
Trigger spring (coil) - 5,000 rounds
Locking block pin - 5,000 rounds
It was also listed to test the recoil spring at each range session & qual, using the standard Glock recoil spring field test, and to replace the recoil spring assembly more often as needed.
Also, for best results, replace mag springs at least every other time the recoil spring is replaced.
A later change I learned is that the current light grey colored trigger spring (coil) is now considered to be a lifetime part.
Naturally, cleaning out the firing pin channel is always prudent to prevent the accumulation of solvent, lubrication & debris which might interfere with the freedom of movement of the firing pin.
A Glock armorer could do all this and inspect your G22 for any issues that might have developed over the years, such as excessive peening & chatter of the firing pin caused by contact with the firing pin safety plunger.
Recoil spring - 2,500 rounds
Magazine spring - 2,500 - 4,000 rounds
Firing pin safety & spring - 5,000 rounds
Firing pin spring - 5,000 rounds
Slide lock - 5,000 rounds
Trigger spring (coil) - 5,000 rounds
Locking block pin - 5,000 rounds
It was also listed to test the recoil spring at each range session & qual, using the standard Glock recoil spring field test, and to replace the recoil spring assembly more often as needed.
Also, for best results, replace mag springs at least every other time the recoil spring is replaced.
A later change I learned is that the current light grey colored trigger spring (coil) is now considered to be a lifetime part.
Naturally, cleaning out the firing pin channel is always prudent to prevent the accumulation of solvent, lubrication & debris which might interfere with the freedom of movement of the firing pin.
A Glock armorer could do all this and inspect your G22 for any issues that might have developed over the years, such as excessive peening & chatter of the firing pin caused by contact with the firing pin safety plunger.
LiveLife
Member
fastbolt, no offense but that LE "recommended" replacement intervals seem waaaay too frequent (perhaps to "pad" Glock parts sales revenue)?
I mean, some of my match/practice sessions easily run into 2000-4000+ rounds each. That would mean I will be replacing Glock parts every other months ... I don't think so and I have certainly not done so the past 15 years of match shooting. Glocks are indeed far more durable than what the "recommended" replacement schedule indicates. I guess the department armorer can keep checking and replacing Glock parts to CYA the department and maintain the armorer's "job security".
BTW, I carry replacement parts assortment with me so if the need arises, I can provide repair/replacement during match stages.
I mean, some of my match/practice sessions easily run into 2000-4000+ rounds each. That would mean I will be replacing Glock parts every other months ... I don't think so and I have certainly not done so the past 15 years of match shooting. Glocks are indeed far more durable than what the "recommended" replacement schedule indicates. I guess the department armorer can keep checking and replacing Glock parts to CYA the department and maintain the armorer's "job security".
BTW, I carry replacement parts assortment with me so if the need arises, I can provide repair/replacement during match stages.
fastbolt
Member
No offense taken.
Glock has had a fair number of years to see how their .40's have been holding up in LE/Gov service. Like some other major makers of service pistols which see LE/Gov usage, they have a vested interest in making sure their major LE/Gov customers experience optimal functioning and service with their products. This seems to involve some more frequent preventive maintenance recommendations in recent years.
Over the years of having been a Glock armorer, I've seen the trend toward more frequent parts replacement being recommended in the harder recoiling .40 models.
When I first received the Wearable Parts List I found it mildly interesting that it only listed Glock .40's (G22/22RTF/23/23RTF/35/27) and not any of the other calibers. Then again, the .40's are the most popular Glocks found among LE/Gov use.
The language contained in the list basically stated that the listed parts gradually 'wear out' over time due to normal use (which seems very reasonable), as they do in other makes/models of pistols (again, a reasonable statement). Such wear isn't considered a warranty issue as gradual wear & tear on parts is the normal result of repeatedly firing the pistol. It also mentions that worn parts are not considered broken or defective (reasonable).
BTW, the newer Gen4 recoil spring assemblies in the G22 are going to last longer than the Gen3 & older RSA's, according to Glock, with an estimate of 5,000 - 7,000 rounds being offered.
One thing the instructor in my last Glock armorer class repeatedly mentioned was that if we're seeing broken locking blocks, locking block pins and trigger pins, that we aren't replacing the recoil springs assemblies often enough. I remember speaking with another Glock armorer who said his agency was seeing some broken barrel lugs on "high mileage" G23's which hadn't seen RSA replacement for some time.
I've seen some locking block pins exhibit some nasty wear, peening and marking from the corresponding locking block surfaces in some Glock .40's, especially out at 10K+ rounds, although I did come across a G23 which had a locking block pin that looked a bit mangled at reportedly approx 2,500+ rounds. Easy enough to replace for the fellow. I've decided to go along with the recommendations and replace the listed wearable parts, especially since the Glocks I see are used by LE as dedicated defensive weapons. (It's always easier to defend following manufacturer recommendations as an armorer if something should happen with a weapon.) FWIW, I was told the hardening had been changed in recent years in regard to the locking block pins.
Glock has had a fair number of years to see how their .40's have been holding up in LE/Gov service. Like some other major makers of service pistols which see LE/Gov usage, they have a vested interest in making sure their major LE/Gov customers experience optimal functioning and service with their products. This seems to involve some more frequent preventive maintenance recommendations in recent years.
Over the years of having been a Glock armorer, I've seen the trend toward more frequent parts replacement being recommended in the harder recoiling .40 models.
When I first received the Wearable Parts List I found it mildly interesting that it only listed Glock .40's (G22/22RTF/23/23RTF/35/27) and not any of the other calibers. Then again, the .40's are the most popular Glocks found among LE/Gov use.
The language contained in the list basically stated that the listed parts gradually 'wear out' over time due to normal use (which seems very reasonable), as they do in other makes/models of pistols (again, a reasonable statement). Such wear isn't considered a warranty issue as gradual wear & tear on parts is the normal result of repeatedly firing the pistol. It also mentions that worn parts are not considered broken or defective (reasonable).
BTW, the newer Gen4 recoil spring assemblies in the G22 are going to last longer than the Gen3 & older RSA's, according to Glock, with an estimate of 5,000 - 7,000 rounds being offered.
One thing the instructor in my last Glock armorer class repeatedly mentioned was that if we're seeing broken locking blocks, locking block pins and trigger pins, that we aren't replacing the recoil springs assemblies often enough.
I remember speaking with another Glock armorer who said his agency was seeing some broken barrel lugs on "high mileage" G23's which hadn't seen RSA replacement for some time.I've seen some locking block pins exhibit some nasty wear, peening and marking from the corresponding locking block surfaces in some Glock .40's, especially out at 10K+ rounds, although I did come across a G23 which had a locking block pin that looked a bit mangled at reportedly approx 2,500+ rounds. Easy enough to replace for the fellow. I've decided to go along with the recommendations and replace the listed wearable parts, especially since the Glocks I see are used by LE as dedicated defensive weapons. (It's always easier to defend following manufacturer recommendations as an armorer if something should happen with a weapon.) FWIW, I was told the hardening had been changed in recent years in regard to the locking block pins.
LiveLife
Member
fastbolt, sounds reasonable as LE use full factory/hot JHP for training/range shooting. They probably add more wear compared to high-range load data match loads and factory target loads.
fastbolt
Member
I agree, especially when you factor in the selection of some of the hotter 165gr & 155gr loads at times.
1KPerDay
Member
What's the "standard Glock recoil spring field test", just out of curiosity?
fastbolt
Member
It's varied a bit over the years.
When it was demonstrated in the first armorer class I attended it involved taking the EMPTY pistol and holding the muzzle pointing vertically, and with the trigger pressed and held rearward, the slide was retracted and slowly released to return forward. The strength of the spring should allow the slide to return forward (upward) into full battery. Later we were told that if the slide stopped short of returning fully forward, to slowly rotate the muzzle to the horizontal, and if the slide then returned to battery in that position that the spring was probably okay, but was approaching the end of its useful service life.
However, I was also later told by a Glock tech that the recoil spring test wasn't applicable to the .45/10 pistols due to the heavier slide mass, and that even a brand new .45/10 might "fail" the test, but that it didn't mean the spring was too weak and not to worry about it.
The current "test" involves holding the EMPTY pistol with the muzzle pointing upward at a 45 degree angle and pulling the trigger (and then holding it rearward). The slide is then retracted and slowly released. The recoil spring should be able to push the slide forward into full battery. This test is supposed to verify that the recoil spring is strong enough to chamber ammunition despite potential less than ideal circumstances (dirty or dry gun, or involving ammunition that may not be perfect).
When it was demonstrated in the first armorer class I attended it involved taking the EMPTY pistol and holding the muzzle pointing vertically, and with the trigger pressed and held rearward, the slide was retracted and slowly released to return forward. The strength of the spring should allow the slide to return forward (upward) into full battery. Later we were told that if the slide stopped short of returning fully forward, to slowly rotate the muzzle to the horizontal, and if the slide then returned to battery in that position that the spring was probably okay, but was approaching the end of its useful service life.
However, I was also later told by a Glock tech that the recoil spring test wasn't applicable to the .45/10 pistols due to the heavier slide mass, and that even a brand new .45/10 might "fail" the test, but that it didn't mean the spring was too weak and not to worry about it.
The current "test" involves holding the EMPTY pistol with the muzzle pointing upward at a 45 degree angle and pulling the trigger (and then holding it rearward). The slide is then retracted and slowly released. The recoil spring should be able to push the slide forward into full battery. This test is supposed to verify that the recoil spring is strong enough to chamber ammunition despite potential less than ideal circumstances (dirty or dry gun, or involving ammunition that may not be perfect).
Zerodefect
member
Change the FP spring, recoil spring, and............heck, just change all the springs, they're cheap.
Clean out the FP channel 'till it rattles very clean sounding. Some time the spring cups can bind the FP up a little. Usually I remove, clean, then reinstall them and the problem is gone. Maybe it was dirt.
Clean out the FP channel 'till it rattles very clean sounding. Some time the spring cups can bind the FP up a little. Usually I remove, clean, then reinstall them and the problem is gone. Maybe it was dirt.
fastbolt
Member
The comment about checking the spring cups has some merit.
If the cups were to become a little deformed and worn over time, and slip over each a bit where they touch, it can result in increased resistance when the firing pin moves forward.
If the cups were to become a little deformed and worn over time, and slip over each a bit where they touch, it can result in increased resistance when the firing pin moves forward.
I would suspect you have gotten petroleum lubricant in the striker channel and gummed up the channel liner. The striker spring retaining cups are what rides in this channel This area MUST be dry and free of oil and lubricants at all times. You may also have debris build up in the drop safety plunger and partial protrusion inhibiting the striker path. The vast majority of all Glock problems is caused by over lubrication and improper lubrication.
LiveLife
Member
I still use the vertical return test as I want all of my pistols to "slam" their slides home in any angle. Just my HO.
.40 caliber pistols built on 9mm platforms wear parts at a far faster rate than the original 9mm caliber.
2500 rounds for a recoil spring and 5000 rounds for other high wear springs is not an unreasonable service schedule and at the price Glock charges for Armorer/L.E. replacement springs, I would hardly call the practice "Padding".
I would call the practice sound advice.
There are many, many pistols on the market in which the springs will and do fail in less than 5000 rounds.
2500 rounds for a recoil spring and 5000 rounds for other high wear springs is not an unreasonable service schedule and at the price Glock charges for Armorer/L.E. replacement springs, I would hardly call the practice "Padding".
I would call the practice sound advice.
There are many, many pistols on the market in which the springs will and do fail in less than 5000 rounds.
Snarlingiron
Member
Make sure the pistol is unloaded. Dryfire. Hold the trigger rearward, i.e. do not allow it to reset. Rapidly shake the pistol forward and backward. If you do not hear the firing pin sliding back and forth and making a clink clink noise, your firing pin channel needs attention.
Use Hoppes on your Glocks judiciously. It is ammoniated and will cause the nickel plating on many of the parts to flake off.
Use Hoppes on your Glocks judiciously. It is ammoniated and will cause the nickel plating on many of the parts to flake off.
Common rubbing alcohol is all that is needed to clean out a Glock slide and lower receiver. Any solvent should only be used in the barrel when it if out off and off the gun, period. Any oil can be used to lubricate a Glock. I personally use Gun Butter as it evaporates at a slower rate and migrates less not making a mess of everything. It has a reddish color which makes it easy to see as well.
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