Ar-15 stripped lower????
- Thread starter chaddy
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Sam1911
Moderator Emeritus
Hmmm... nothing special. A few small punches, a small hammer helps (especially if it is soft and won't scratch the finish. A little bit of blue painter's masking tape helps with that, too. Various sized screwdrivers. That's about it.
dprice3844444
member
single edge razor blade and fine tipped hemostats for the front pin spring and plunger.if you plan on doing some more,get that pin punch that the roll pin fits inside of for putting the pin in for the bolt catch. make sure you always install an extractor upgrade kit
WhoMe?
Member
Castle nut wrench if you choose a carbine buffer tube.
Sam1911
Moderator Emeritus
Buffer depends on what barrel and gas system you want. A whole lot of builds these days are using 16" barrels with carbine or mid-length gas systems, and so use the carbine buffer.
If you look on Youtube you can see how to stake the castle nut. No big deal.
Should you be doing this? Can you rebuild an automatic transmission? Can you sharpen a pencil? Well, putting together an AR lower is about halfway between the two.
No, seriously, you can do it. It isn't much above a basic maintenance function.
If you look on Youtube you can see how to stake the castle nut. No big deal.
Should you be doing this? Can you rebuild an automatic transmission? Can you sharpen a pencil? Well, putting together an AR lower is about halfway between the two.
No, seriously, you can do it. It isn't much above a basic maintenance function.
Redlg155
Member
Just a hint. Clear little children and dogs away when installing springs. Either they will eat them, hop around and make it impossible to find in a shag carpet, or learn a new word daddy used.
If possible, enlist a spotter to watch the spring trajectory.
If possible, enlist a spotter to watch the spring trajectory.
Absolutely you should do it, its totally worth it. I build mine this year (bought an assembled upper) and it was not difficult in the least. Screw screw here, tap tap there done. Plus you will have invested yourself in it, not just your money. It pays to know your gun inside and out and building is the best way.
There is something satisfying about it when someone sees your AR and asks where you got it. "I built it!" My next one I'll do the upper also.
BTW here's mine, I was shooting for an A2 clone with 20" barrel, shoots great.
There is something satisfying about it when someone sees your AR and asks where you got it. "I built it!" My next one I'll do the upper also.
BTW here's mine, I was shooting for an A2 clone with 20" barrel, shoots great.
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1911 guy
Member
Building a lower isn't hard, i just put one together this evening for a friend. He looked over my shoulder and began to learn how.
You will need the painters tape to avoid scratches, especially when installing the bolt catch roll pin. Roll pin punches are handy, but any flat punch will work. An Allen key or screwdriver long enough to get inside the pistol grip, depending on what brand parts kit you get. Small tweezers or hemostats are helpful for installing detents. The front takedown detent is the one most likely to achieve flight, so either make or buy the tool to keep the detent depressed when you install the pin.
And by all means support the underside of the triggerguard ears when driving in the rollpin. failure to do so may result in a broken receiver. I have been known to work inside a clear plastic bag when feeling exceptionally butter-fingered.
You will need the painters tape to avoid scratches, especially when installing the bolt catch roll pin. Roll pin punches are handy, but any flat punch will work. An Allen key or screwdriver long enough to get inside the pistol grip, depending on what brand parts kit you get. Small tweezers or hemostats are helpful for installing detents. The front takedown detent is the one most likely to achieve flight, so either make or buy the tool to keep the detent depressed when you install the pin.
And by all means support the underside of the triggerguard ears when driving in the rollpin. failure to do so may result in a broken receiver. I have been known to work inside a clear plastic bag when feeling exceptionally butter-fingered.
I got lucky and a friend had a castle nut wrench which I borrowed...I didn't stake mine in, just check it regularly.
I used vice grips to install my roll pins. Wrapped the jaws in painter's tape and thought I had better control.
I used a fat allen wrench to hold the forward takedown pin detent in place while installing the pin...but anything that fits the holes will work
I used vice grips to install my roll pins. Wrapped the jaws in painter's tape and thought I had better control.
I used a fat allen wrench to hold the forward takedown pin detent in place while installing the pin...but anything that fits the holes will work
MarshallDodge
Member
Brownells has good videos on how to put one together.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=11011/learn/
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=11011/learn/
A typical 16" barrel with carbine or even mid length gas system and an appropriately sized gas port is probably best off with an H (heavy) buffer, although a lot of manufacturers seem to save money by using the less expensive carbine buffer, and the rifles still function fine, perhaps with a bit more carrier/bolt bounce
Ramone
Member
Rather than whacking a drift with a hammer to drive in pins, I use a pair of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Knipex-8603300-12-Inch-Pliers-Wrench/dp/B000Y03968/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_text_z
I also have a small one (6"?). Between the two, I can press every pin into place in a controlled fashion. These are smooth jawed, and close parallel, which is ideal, but in the past I have used regular Water Pump Pliers ("Channel locks") with some tape on the jaws to protect the finish.
I also find a set of Allen Wrenches handy to use as alignment tools.
I've used Locktite instead of staking the castle nut -I wasn't sure I wanted to stick with a adjustable stock- thinking I would get around to it at some point if I kept the stock. I never did get around to it, and it's about 10 years later, and it hasn't budged. I did make a pair of index marks with a scratch awl to make sure it didn't creep.
http://www.amazon.com/Knipex-8603300-12-Inch-Pliers-Wrench/dp/B000Y03968/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_text_z
I also have a small one (6"?). Between the two, I can press every pin into place in a controlled fashion. These are smooth jawed, and close parallel, which is ideal, but in the past I have used regular Water Pump Pliers ("Channel locks") with some tape on the jaws to protect the finish.
I also find a set of Allen Wrenches handy to use as alignment tools.
I've used Locktite instead of staking the castle nut -I wasn't sure I wanted to stick with a adjustable stock- thinking I would get around to it at some point if I kept the stock. I never did get around to it, and it's about 10 years later, and it hasn't budged. I did make a pair of index marks with a scratch awl to make sure it didn't creep.
Common tools around the house if you have a tool kit. Specialty tools will make it easier, and faster, but putting a parts kit in a stripped lower is real easy. (Closer to the "sharpen a pencil".)
Pliers, painters tape, needle nose pliers would be good, allen wrench to help put in the pins. It just isn't hard. I made some roll pin starters to make it easier.
Pliers, painters tape, needle nose pliers would be good, allen wrench to help put in the pins. It just isn't hard. I made some roll pin starters to make it easier.
My only advice to add to the above is buy a few. You can get Anderson lowers from psa for $49. Or if your stuck on spikes, that's fine, but since you will probably pay a shipping charge, and a ffl transfer, buy a couple. I bought 4 Anderson lowers from psa for one shipping and one ffl fee, with the thought that once I built one, I would want to build another, and another. I have one complete ar, one lower partially built (FCG and stock) and 2 more stripped lowers waiting for when the bug bites again.
Building the lower is easy and fun. Buy a complete barreled upper assembly and putting it all together takes an hour or so with no real specialized tools other than what the others have mentioned.
One thing that comes in handy is a block you can put in the mag well and clamp in the vice that holds the lower steady. You can find them on amazon for 10 bucks, make one out of wood, or use an old mag.
http://www.amazon.com/Squirrel-Dadd...1407898676&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=Ar15+block
Better yet, get this one.
http://www.amazon.com/5-56-Lower-Ma..._sbs_sg_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0V4CN0EH7SRV6D8H8Q7R
Building the lower is easy and fun. Buy a complete barreled upper assembly and putting it all together takes an hour or so with no real specialized tools other than what the others have mentioned.
One thing that comes in handy is a block you can put in the mag well and clamp in the vice that holds the lower steady. You can find them on amazon for 10 bucks, make one out of wood, or use an old mag.
http://www.amazon.com/Squirrel-Dadd...1407898676&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=Ar15+block
Better yet, get this one.
http://www.amazon.com/5-56-Lower-Ma..._sbs_sg_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0V4CN0EH7SRV6D8H8Q7R
Last edited:
StrutStopper
Member
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- Jul 5, 2011
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^This, or a cheap tool specially made for it. Launching springs across the room isn't too much fun. A castle nut wrench will be helpful. Also, get a cheap spring loaded punch from Harbor Freight to stake the castle nut.
DHJenkins
Member
Personally, I treat ebay like a tool loaning service. Buy a quality used one, then when you're done, sell it off. If you're patient, you can even make a little money (which paypal will take).
Quality keeps its value - cheap stuff doesn't.
I've built 3 and the only thing special I needed was the castle nut wrench (they're all 6 pos carbine tubes). No special clamps, spring holders, etc...
Just do a youtube search - there are a ton of assembly videos.
Quality keeps its value - cheap stuff doesn't.
I've built 3 and the only thing special I needed was the castle nut wrench (they're all 6 pos carbine tubes). No special clamps, spring holders, etc...
Just do a youtube search - there are a ton of assembly videos.
I assembled another AR lower last night.
Tools I used:
Needle nose pliers
Tiny flat head screwdriver
Full size flat head screwdriver
Regular old hammer
Bench mounted vice/clamp (
1/8" punch (mostly I use it to help align the trigger/hammer before pushing the pin through)
Tools I used:
Needle nose pliers
Tiny flat head screwdriver
Full size flat head screwdriver
Regular old hammer
Bench mounted vice/clamp (
1/8" punch (mostly I use it to help align the trigger/hammer before pushing the pin through)
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