700ForLife
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I'm interesting in buying an AR-15. What is the difference in an A1, A2, A3???.... there are too many choices! What are some good average setups that you have?
Ar 15
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kcmarine
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Hm... what do you plan on using it for?
And to answer the question about the A1, A2, and A3 designations, it has mostly to do with the type of sights or carry handle the receiver has. There are other minute differences, but in most new production rifles, the only real differences you're going to see are in those areas mentioned.
An "A1" designated rifle (named after the M16A1) has a fixed carry handle, which means it is integrated into the upper receiver assembly. The carry handle has an aperture sight in it, and on the A1 type of upper receiver, this rear sight is adjustable for windage only. Elevation adjustments are made on the front sight of the rifle. On new production AR-15 rifles, you will mainly see these on lower end rifles, or "retro" style builds that seek to mimic the look of a M16A1 or Colt SP1.
An "A2" designated rifle (named after the M16A2, the second version of the M16 and adopted by the military starting around 1984) also has a fixed carry handle, but the rear sight is adjustable in both windage and elevation. This type of upper receiver is seen on most mid to upper level new production rifles today.
Finally, we come to the "A3" designation. Like the A2 models, they have a rear sight adjustable for both windage and elevation, but they have a removable carry handle mounted on a Picatinny M1913 standardized rail, which is machined into the upper receiver of the rifle. Probably the most common style out there today, especially on M4- style carbines. This removable carry handle allows you to mount accessories like ACOGs, rangefinders, scopes, red dots, and lasers.
That's the basic rundown of the differences between the three different categories you mentioned. And yes, the number of options out there is ridiculous, but I'm not complaining
. If you can't find an AR-15 to suit your needs, then you should probably re-evaluate what your needs really are.
And to answer the question about the A1, A2, and A3 designations, it has mostly to do with the type of sights or carry handle the receiver has. There are other minute differences, but in most new production rifles, the only real differences you're going to see are in those areas mentioned.
An "A1" designated rifle (named after the M16A1) has a fixed carry handle, which means it is integrated into the upper receiver assembly. The carry handle has an aperture sight in it, and on the A1 type of upper receiver, this rear sight is adjustable for windage only. Elevation adjustments are made on the front sight of the rifle. On new production AR-15 rifles, you will mainly see these on lower end rifles, or "retro" style builds that seek to mimic the look of a M16A1 or Colt SP1.
An "A2" designated rifle (named after the M16A2, the second version of the M16 and adopted by the military starting around 1984) also has a fixed carry handle, but the rear sight is adjustable in both windage and elevation. This type of upper receiver is seen on most mid to upper level new production rifles today.
Finally, we come to the "A3" designation. Like the A2 models, they have a rear sight adjustable for both windage and elevation, but they have a removable carry handle mounted on a Picatinny M1913 standardized rail, which is machined into the upper receiver of the rifle. Probably the most common style out there today, especially on M4- style carbines. This removable carry handle allows you to mount accessories like ACOGs, rangefinders, scopes, red dots, and lasers.
That's the basic rundown of the differences between the three different categories you mentioned. And yes, the number of options out there is ridiculous, but I'm not complaining
. If you can't find an AR-15 to suit your needs, then you should probably re-evaluate what your needs really are.700ForLife
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Self Defense and Tactical Applications. I'm leaning towards not building my own but rather buy a complete upper and a complete lower. Are the different brands making much of a difference. I have shot a bushmaster upper with a Stag lower and I loved it. Also shot a DPMS and loved it. Any suggestions?
cameron.personal
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Effectively, they are all the same, buy the cheapest thing you can find...
Essentially, most AR's are the same. However, some common things that are sought after are chrome lined (not chrome moly) barrels and removable carrying handles (A3 Variant) which allow for optic mounting. Do you want an AR with a fixed stock or one that collapses and has multiple positions? Do you want one with a short 16" barrel or a 20" barrel? Everybody can tell you which make they like the most and which options are the best. However, it just comes down to what you will use it for. If it is for plinking, something like a 16" retractable stock carbine might be best. If it is for competition, a 20" fixed stock rifle might be best. If it is for coyote or game, a 24" barrel, fixed stock varmint AR would probably be your best bet.
The less expensive AR's out there are Double Star Arms, Olympic Arms, and DPMS. The next tier includes Bushmaster, Rock River Arms, and Stag Arms, S&W. The next level includes Colt, Charles Daly, LMT, and CMMG. I probably forgot a bunch. Will a $2000 AR do much more than a $600 AR? It is doubtful. It just depends on what you want, how much you are willing to spend, and what you want to use it for. Personally, I have a RRA Entry Tactical and am extremely pleased with it.
The less expensive AR's out there are Double Star Arms, Olympic Arms, and DPMS. The next tier includes Bushmaster, Rock River Arms, and Stag Arms, S&W. The next level includes Colt, Charles Daly, LMT, and CMMG. I probably forgot a bunch. Will a $2000 AR do much more than a $600 AR? It is doubtful. It just depends on what you want, how much you are willing to spend, and what you want to use it for. Personally, I have a RRA Entry Tactical and am extremely pleased with it.
kcmarine
Member
They might all be the same design, but they can have differences that justify price.
There are a lot of differences between a $650 Olympic and a $1700 Noveske/ Colt/ LMT. Mainly, these differences have to do with quality control and extra little details that make them suitable for extreme combat duty. These things include proof testing barrels, magnetic particle checks of critical steel components (like the bolt & its carrier), staking of the gas key and castle nut, using an M16 bolt carrier (which DOES NOT make the weapon fully automatic), Parkerizing/ finishing underneath the front sight block, including M4 feed ramps, chroming of the barrel and chamber etc. Will these things matter for about 97% of users? No, because for many, an AR-15 is A) a range toy, B) a home defense gun or C) a fun way to burn money in the ever- continuing quest to find one more accessory that your buddy doesn't have on his AR. Most of the AR-15s out there today will never see anything other than great care. If you put your rifle under extreme stress (with carbine classes, or combat use), these features might mean so much to you that you might want to pay the extra coin for them.
Again, honestly look at what you need, and buy the rifle that fits your needs. If there's a few ways to spend your money on things that won't make any difference in the long run, they're A) guitars, B) cars, C) women and cosmetic surgeries and D) AR-15 rifles.
There are a lot of differences between a $650 Olympic and a $1700 Noveske/ Colt/ LMT. Mainly, these differences have to do with quality control and extra little details that make them suitable for extreme combat duty. These things include proof testing barrels, magnetic particle checks of critical steel components (like the bolt & its carrier), staking of the gas key and castle nut, using an M16 bolt carrier (which DOES NOT make the weapon fully automatic), Parkerizing/ finishing underneath the front sight block, including M4 feed ramps, chroming of the barrel and chamber etc. Will these things matter for about 97% of users? No, because for many, an AR-15 is A) a range toy, B) a home defense gun or C) a fun way to burn money in the ever- continuing quest to find one more accessory that your buddy doesn't have on his AR. Most of the AR-15s out there today will never see anything other than great care. If you put your rifle under extreme stress (with carbine classes, or combat use), these features might mean so much to you that you might want to pay the extra coin for them.
Again, honestly look at what you need, and buy the rifle that fits your needs. If there's a few ways to spend your money on things that won't make any difference in the long run, they're A) guitars, B) cars, C) women and cosmetic surgeries and D) AR-15 rifles.
OK. I do not want to come off as an AR fanboy (I'm not, I prefer the FAL), o a gear snob (I think the best bag for your buck is a low-end AK), but all ARs are not the same. A properly maintained high end gun is more likely to be reliable than one of the middle-maker guns or a cheap-as-you-can-get kit gun.
However, I will say just as quickly that, for a casual shooter, a run of the mill Bushmaster/RRA/DPMS will probably be perfectly adequate. The really high end guns shine when you start throwing thousands of rounds downrange each month, and even if you do have a malfunction, you have to ask yourself how big of a deal it is. Are you plinking? Are you shooting competitively? Are you shooting defensively or in the line of duty somewhere? The answers to those questions will determine whether or not you need the increased chances of havinga 100% reliable rifle offered by the big names in the game.
For most people, you're money ahead getting a standard offering from a major maker and replacing stuff if/when it breaks, or swapping out parts to suit your needs.
Mike
However, I will say just as quickly that, for a casual shooter, a run of the mill Bushmaster/RRA/DPMS will probably be perfectly adequate. The really high end guns shine when you start throwing thousands of rounds downrange each month, and even if you do have a malfunction, you have to ask yourself how big of a deal it is. Are you plinking? Are you shooting competitively? Are you shooting defensively or in the line of duty somewhere? The answers to those questions will determine whether or not you need the increased chances of havinga 100% reliable rifle offered by the big names in the game.
For most people, you're money ahead getting a standard offering from a major maker and replacing stuff if/when it breaks, or swapping out parts to suit your needs.
Mike
If you could read, you could see that I did. I divided the AR makes into three tiers. Keep your snide comments to yourself. If you want to answer the man's question, then do so with your own insight. Don't question the insight of others. Let's get back on topic.
arthurcw
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kcmarine,
PM me at your convenience to get the address where you can ship me a new keyboard.
gcrookston
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I skipped the A2 and A3, went from A1 to M4
kcmarine
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That second rifle is an excellent example of a retro build, btw.
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