AR, build or buy.

Status
Not open for further replies.
I bought one, and bought a lower to start a build. One or two parts at a time. It is going slowly. Funds keep going elsewhere. :)
 
I would not buy a rifle complete unless I got a screaming deal on it.

I like to build my rifles from scratch so that I can personalize the weapon and tailor it to meet my exact needs/wants from the start.

Also, I get to hand inspect, refinish/upgrade, and approve of every single part used in the firearm.
 
Build. Way more fun and you get a better rifle IMO. You can't get much cheaper that baseline, but you can get more for the money.

John
 
The quickest way to save is buy a assembled lower, then buy a separate assembled upper and snap them together and save yourself the 10% tax. 10% on a $1k gun is $100 bucks. If you can put two pins in you can save yourself $100 just like that.

I haven't heard of this tax before. What tax is it?
 
spend as little as u can on the lower. spend as much as u can on the upper. a dpms stripped lower will run 110.00 where i live.
 
Model 1 has a cheap kit, minus lower. I can get a full kit for about the same as the upper I want. Will order an anvil arms lower sometime soon, and then I can make sure I get the other parts I want.

Will also be a few hundred lower price, so I can get some decent optics, and open sights.
 
my take
To sum up:
$484 LMT upper with handguards & charging handle
$330 LMT complete lower
$129 LMT Bolt & Carrier Group (BCG)
$89 Larue BUIS
$1033 base rifle

If you want an optic, add an Aimpoint C3 in ADM Mount for $445 bringing the total package to $1478.

I would steer clear of Olympic, DPMS, Bushmaster, and Rock River. Hopefully this will help to explain why.

Don't be in too much of a rush to add go-faster parts like rails, vertical foregrips, fancy stocks, etc. Get out and shoot the piss out of the gun first, and see if you can't find a quality training class to take while you're at it. You'll learn what parts you might want to change, and you'll get a chance to get some experience with all manner of other parts and pieces that other shooters are using.

It's all well and good to think that you can "build exactly what you want" for cheaper, the obvious problem being that without some hands on experience how do you know "exactly what you want"? Not to mention, if you start with crap parts you're going to be fighting an uphill battle later on. Putting fancy parts on a sub-standard gun is like putting 20" chrome rims on a '77 Pinto. Using parts that just look fancy is like putting chrome hubcaps on the same car.
 
all around

What would someone that is shooting 22LR look for in an AR-15? Suppose I would like to use the AR-15 often for 100 yard and 300 yard club competitions, the occassional 600 yrd, and deer hunting?

thanks
bill
 
I'm not sure I understand the question.

It sounds like you want to shoot .22 LR at 600 yards and for deer hunting? I know that can't be right though.
 
I'm shooting 22LR. I need something bigger. I'm not a guy looking for 4 or 5 rifles with different loads. I rather get 1-2 with the same caliber.

thanks
 
your criteria is pretty broad. It sounds like you're looking to do mostly slow-fire shooting for accuracy. I'd look for something with an 18" stainless barrel like www.noveskerifleworks.com or similar.

Also, is .223 legal for deer where you live? I know it's not legal in FL. However, the nice thing about an AR is that you could have a "heavy" upper for the long-range slowfire stuff and a lightweight upper with a better caliber (like 6.5 or 6.8) for hunting, all on the same lower receiver.
 
Build it. You will have more fun!

+1 for:
A pre-assembled upper cost less than buying the parts separately
If you’re trying to save money, buy your upper assembled if you can. The specialized tools for installing a barrel will eat up any money you may save buying it unassembled.

I used an Essential Arms lower on my last build and found them to be good quality at a good price. EA has lowers for $86.00. Convince a friend to buy one on the same order; the price drops and you can split the shipping/transfer fees.
 
It's a piece of cake to build one. I got a Superior Arms stripped lower for $97 and bought the CAR kit from JT Distributing. Total carbine cost with a single P-mag = $590 (shipping included).

PS - The Superior lower has a trigger adjustment screw.
 
I shopped for parts for over three months to build mine. I did not save money but it was a fun experience and turned out great.
 
My local AO requires all deer hunting with shotgun. However, the adjacent states have large areas with deer hunting by rifle. Most of the local hunters go deer hunting outside of the area due to the extreme moonbat population density in certain areas even though the deer population is too high for long term sustainability.

Most of the areas require at least a .243. I am thinking that a remington .243 varmint is cheaper than buying a dedicated upper for 6.8.

I think that I might was well just buy a 20" .223 from J&T. Which bullets should I am to use for 200 - 300 yard or the 600 yard? Any idea on which twist such bullets would most likely dictate?

thanks
 
So I kinda have my AR kit picked out. Unless I find a solid ak for a good price.

http://www.model1sales.com/item-detail.cfm?ID=KV2400&storeid=1&image=v24k.gif this kit. With chrome carrier, extended badger latch, swivel stud. Maybe the rails.... but $609 + shipping for all but lower.

And a stripped lower. Forged, good price. ~$125
A few bits I like these: http://yankeehill.bizland.com/store/product356.html
Not a bad start for a long range AR.

Also, this isn't a "tactical rifle" or supposed to be one. I want the heavy barrel, and I want it long. I will get a tacticool upper sometime later.
 
One nice addition

If you get the flat-top upper, one nice addition is a scope mount that will put the scope a little forward, so you can get a "normal" cheek-weld (and AR15nose-weld).

http://www.rockriverarms.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_id=317

Then, if you have a standard trigger, google "15 minute trigger job". I was able to smooth out a DPMS trigger, reduce creep and overtravel. Not quite a match trigger, but close.
 
I wish that I had just bought a used gun for my first AR. Instead I built it up; at first to save money, then to get exactly what I wanted. With Classic Arms selling a complete AR-15 for $599, it seems to me that would have been the better starting point.

Regarding the lower, I can recommend AlohaRover on Calguns, who sells them for $100 shipped. He also sells magazines at a great price.
 
what barrel?

so who makes a good barrel??
wilson barrels are sold by RRA, am I right?
I have heard they are supposed to be good.

Also JP rifle barrels are good I have heard.
Everything has a price.

I have never built myself an AR, but I have been looking into doing it for some time. If you buy super high end parts, do you still save money??
I have done calculations and its still a pretty big chunk of cash.

But, I suppose with building it yourself you can get EXACTLY what you want without the limitations of what the industry has pre-packaged for you.
That seems like the biggest plus for me.

Anyway, who would you all suggest to get a barrel from?
 
I'm curious.

If you've never owned an AR before, how does one know "EXACTLY what you want"?

Not trying to bust balls, I just see this statement all the time and find it curious.

As to good barrels, IMHO the world of top-shelf barrels begins and ends with Noveske. He sells his stainless barrels separately, but to get his N4 chrome-lined barrels you have to buy the complete upper.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top