You are more then welcome to your own opinion..Those videos on accurizing lost my attention on part 2 when he promotes the "Accu-Wedge." - A complete waste of money and I wouldn't put one in any rifle I own.
None for 5.56/223, but I've ordered from PTG for 6.5 CM and 6.5 PRC.Head space gauge, what are you guys using?
I was just going to ask if I can use AreoShell instead of Anti-S !I watched part 3 and agree with nearly everything. A couple minor differences:
- Completely agree on the head spacing topic too many people overlook this on AR's. I use Forrester 556 and 223.
- I don't use 609 on the barrel as I don't want to have to heat it to get it off in the future. I can see where that would have a positive effect on accuracy.
(I do use 620 when installing new gas keys as well as OCKscrews)
- I use Aeroshell 64 instead of anti-seize, but they mention it, so good here.
- When I season the threads, I take it to the Barrel nut MFG recommended full torque spec 3 times and back it off with the breaker bar and the fourth time is the final torque value. Not sure the method of seasoning shown is enough, but at least they show it.
I may try using 609 on my current A2 build in progress to see if I can tell any difference.
But I'm just an experienced amateur who likes to try to do things correctly.
Since you mention youtube, there is a lot of marginal information on youtube. If you're going to use youtube, use this guy.Thanks everyone!
let me hit Youtube for all these new terms and tool!
that Action Rod does a great job!Bench vise,
Action wrench
roll pin punches
receiver block
The rest is all standard hand tools.
The need for a torque wrench depends on your experience wrenching. I have been building engines for 20 years so I don't need a torque wrench to know what the appropriate torque on a barrel nut is. If you don't already own a torque wrench then perhaps that would be a sign that you might need one.
that Action Rod does a great job!
Added bonus of using the reaction rod over other "clamp on" receiver block is that instead of just using for installing barrel nut, you can also use it as "work block" to hold upper/barrel steady to access all the parts of upper receiver while barrel is engaged to lugs.I don't use one but to each his own. I use the plastic receiver blocks for forged uppers and for most billet uppers I just clamp them directly in the vice with plastic soft jaws.
I've put more than one AR together. They are not "built" but assembled - just like Legos (or Tinker Toys for the more seasoned among the readers here).I have not built a complete upper AR before. I have plenty of parts & barrels.
what tool kit would you folks recommend on to getting going?
thanks!
Oooh yeah,… we an’t boring out barrels! Stoner was a genius with the design of the gun, lol interchangeable and mill spec!I've put more than one AR together. They are not "built" but assembled - just like Legos (or Tinker Toys for the more seasoned among the readers here).
Not wanting to deplete my ammo fund, all that was needed was a medium Vise-Grips, with plastic tape for the jaws, two finish nails filed down to make just the right sized punches, a big screwdriver, and a little hammer from my wife's pink toolbox. Since I'm old and feeble I also found a magnifying glass and a needle-nose pliers to help with the itty-bitty parts.
Honest - that is all you need to get the job done.
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thanks ! I like quality tools and dies!
Also great for installing muzzle devices, gas block/tube and handguards, even setting up scope/rings/mount along with sights. I have other blocks and cleaning stands and it's fast/easy to clamp on the reaction rod to slide the upper receiver/barrel on to work on. Flip the receiver/barrel upside down to install Mlok rails and other accessories. Now I only use the mag block when working on the lower.
And don't forget anti-seize on receiver threads and 3 times tighten/loosen before final torquing.
Added bonus of using the reaction rod over other "clamp on" receiver block is that instead of just using for installing barrel nut, you can also use it as "work block" to hold upper/barrel steady to access all the parts of upper receiver while barrel is engaged to lugs.
Any anti-seize you can buy at the local auto parts store is good, but I like Nickel. Highest temp protection.And don't forget anti-seize on receiver threads
A RR squeeze gone wrong could break the indexing pin. I take clam shells or BEV every day.I don't recommend using action rods as it's well documented that they may cause problems while torquing.
Agreed... I personally use a the Magpul BEV Block, but their are plenty of less expensive options. Others are hell bent on using action rods, but I'm not risking ruining a $200-$300 barrel when I can simply use a different affordable tool to get the job done.A RR squeeze gone wrong could break the indexing pin. I take clam shells or BEV every day.
I use the VISM for AR-15 and AR-10, except when installing muzzle brakes; the BEV is better suited for it.
Just as a newbie using a reaction rod...What are you realistically gonna do? Slap together 1 upper and check that box on the bucket list? Are you gonna use it a few times to swap handguards? Are you gonna build a dozen uppers, constantly reconfiguring until everything is perfect just to find the next even more perfect whizbang doomaflotchie? Your reality determines the grade of tools. I have built a dozen or so with the cheapest tools on the market. I broke 1 tooth off of a pin style barrel nut wrench and I bought another, slightly better wrench that has served me well. My clamshell upper vice blocks and a harbor freight table vise are plenty, I just c-clamp the vice to something for torquing the barrel nut. I think I dropped about 30 bucks on tools including the $9 table vise when I built my first upper. To pinpoint the date, the stuff came in the mail the weekend before I opened the package, and I assembled 2 complete guns from parts as the votes got tallied for Hilary to beat Trump, and I was done in time to watch her absolute implosion as the realization that her 98% probable victory somehow turned into a loss.
If I were to buy kit today, there are some sets that seem like fair buys, but you never get the best of everything by buying a single set. There are some really good tools out there for affordable prices if you go with Chinese copies of overpriced American tools, but that seems sacrilegious. Spend whatever you wish to spend, and you’re probably going to get your moneys worth, but know that no matter what brand you buy, you’re paying a premium for whatever sticker is on the side. So… my setup today would be the same as it currently is. Cheap clamshell blocks, not the cheapest but close to it on an armorers wrench, just don’t buy cast metal there, harbor freight table vise, cheap pin punch kit, folding Allen wrench pack, cheap soft brass hammer (harbor freight is always sold out, order online)
I’m getting a BEV too! one way to figure out what tool Like bestA RR squeeze gone wrong could break the indexing pin. I take clam shells or BEV every day.
I use the VISM for AR-15 and AR-10, except when installing muzzle brakes; the BEV is better suited for it.
googling right nowAgreed... I personally use a the Magpul BEV Block, but their are plenty of less expensive options. Others are hell bent on using action rods, but I'm not risking ruining a $200-$300 barrel when I can simply use a different affordable tool to get the job done.
As you pointed out, all the and lbs forces of torque are being put on the small index pin. While some have the "but it hasn't happened to me" attitude, I've seen a LOT of examples of bent or sheared off index pins. It's just not worth the risk unless you like to gamble, and your money and time is no object.
@Mark_Mark Google and research "Reaction Rod Index Pin" before you make a decision about which tool you'd like to go with.
Amen! to it all!What are you realistically gonna do? Slap together 1 upper and check that box on the bucket list? Are you gonna use it a few times to swap handguards? Are you gonna build a dozen uppers, constantly reconfiguring until everything is perfect just to find the next even more perfect whizbang doomaflotchie? Your reality determines the grade of tools. I have built a dozen or so with the cheapest tools on the market. I broke 1 tooth off of a pin style barrel nut wrench and I bought another, slightly better wrench that has served me well. My clamshell upper vice blocks and a harbor freight table vise are plenty, I just c-clamp the vice to something for torquing the barrel nut. I think I dropped about 30 bucks on tools including the $9 table vise when I built my first upper. To pinpoint the date, the stuff came in the mail the weekend before I opened the package, and I assembled 2 complete guns from parts as the votes got tallied for Hilary to beat Trump, and I was done in time to watch her absolute implosion as the realization that her 98% probable victory somehow turned into a loss.
If I were to buy kit today, there are some sets that seem like fair buys, but you never get the best of everything by buying a single set. There are some really good tools out there for affordable prices if you go with Chinese copies of overpriced American tools, but that seems sacrilegious. Spend whatever you wish to spend, and you’re probably going to get your moneys worth, but know that no matter what brand you buy, you’re paying a premium for whatever sticker is on the side. So… my setup today would be the same as it currently is. Cheap clamshell blocks, not the cheapest but close to it on an armorers wrench, just don’t buy cast metal there, harbor freight table vise, cheap pin punch kit, folding Allen wrench pack, cheap soft brass hammer (harbor freight is always sold out, order online)