Arrrghhh!!! I can't get my MkII back together!!!

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observation on "speed strip kits"

a while back while browsing Rimfirecentral.com i noticed that a rather high number of MkII owners over there that had bought the speed strip kit, seemd to veiw it as the stupidest firearms buy they had made.

seems there is a bit TOO high a chance of even an experienced, mechanically knowlegeable and careful gunowner breaking one of the parts (hammer strut i think) the kit interfaces with while trying to install the kit. and that each time the mainspring portion is removed for cleaing or other needs, that the likelyhood of breakage goes up.


my personal oppinion after having delt with both a MkII and what i am guessing would be a Mk1 (not so marked but..) is that if a shooter spends a reasonable amount of time "getting to know" the pistol that there is absolutely no need for that kit.

and if there is a possibility that trying to install it is going to BREAK my gun! it can stay right where it is and leave me and MY guns the heck alone!!:what:
 
Well, game on! But remember that mine is a 22/45 and is easier to unlatch the mainspring and the barrel and receiver aren't very tight either. But the "tricky" hammer strut is the same.

MkII challengers get to use a paper clip or something.

Yes, that includes removing the barrel:

On the subject of tight frame/barrel fit, my old SS MkII smoothed up after a few disassemblies. Oil helps. We never used a mallet, just held the frame and pushed the barrel into the work bench, muzzle or back end as needed.

My brother was 13 when we got the gun. He was not a big kid, or super mechanically inclined, but he had no trouble after the first couple of goes.
 
along the lines of opening up the mainspring....I've found that a standard bobby pin end works perfectly, no bending or alteration necessary. Plus, when I lose it....the wife is happy to "loan" me another :D
 
I've found that the perfect completely non-marring tool for opening the mainspring latch is a plastic cable tie. I use the small ones and make a loop, put one end over the latch and my finger in the loop. No scratching and lots of leverage.

Just now it took me 6 secs to field strip my MK2.
 
to each his own, I will put the speed strip on mine....sure, I can take mine apart fairly fast also, but, unlike some people I can look at an improvement of the model and actually act on it.....If it don't work out, fine, throw it away....big write-up in Handguns on it now, and the boys at Majestic Arms didn't know about it until someone at the Las Vegas Show showed them the article.....
 
So this device costs $50, requires tools, makes the backstrap inaccessible for cleaning and may break factory parts during installation.

:( You're right, I guess I can't recognize an "improvement".




So if you don't like it, you're going to throw a $50 part out?
 
HANDY: last night I took my Ruger trigger out to do the over-travel adjust of the factory trigger (I'm sure you know where they hid the screw). On mine, you can't lift the trigger out without freeing the "trigger bar" which requires removing the hammer. If you are really lucky, you can keep the pin in far enough to get the hammer out without the safety and all the other parts coming off... I wasn't lucky. A loud "sproing" and I am looking down at a bench covered with parts and tiny pins.

Thank God I had the re-assembly drawings that were posted at the On Target web site or I would have been dead. Next time, try timing yourself to get the hammer/sear/trigger assemblies and all the other junk back in. Hint: you can time yourself with a sundial.
 
Do you guys get really frustrated when you can't get a gun to go back together? The first time I took my MKII apart I thought I was gonna have to take an anger management course. In fact, it wasn't a whole lot better the last time I took it apart. Luckily, this time I knew what was wrong, so I took a time out and came back a couple of hours later, and it went back together on the first try.

I think this is the real reason why some folks recommend not cleaning MKIIs but about every 2000 rounds... :banghead:
 
Bountyhunter,

Foolishly, I don't take the trigger apart for regular cleaning.



Which is a funny way of asking, what are you talking about? I thought the thread was about field stripping Rugers. Some think it's hard, some think it's just a bit of a trick that requires a little practice.

I guess I have no idea what you think.
 
I don't take the trigger apart for regular cleaning.
Click to expand...
Why would anyone, with our OnTarget Trigger Shields keeping that area nice and clean :)

Um...we *do* all have OnTarget Trigger Shields in our Rugers, don't we?? :eek:
 
Thank God I had the re-assembly drawings that were posted at the On Target web site or I would have been dead. Next time, try timing yourself to get the hammer/sear/trigger assemblies and all the other junk back in. Hint: you can time yourself with a sundial.
Click to expand...

The next time you want to take your Mark2 apart, just go to yzguy's site and follow the pictures and instructions. A lot easier than trying to do it with drawings. Then you can time yourself with a 30 minute timer.

http://www.1bad69.com/ruger/internals.htm
 
One of these days I'll get a hold of a video camera and film it.... it is not that hard and can be done that fast.... (field stripping that is, the internals are a bit more complicated, but then again arn't they on every firearm??)

Also I see I got a link from on target!! :)
(for those that don't know, the 1bad69 site is mine)
 
"Bountyhunter,

Foolishly, I don't take the trigger apart for regular cleaning.

Which is a funny way of asking, what are you talking about? I thought the thread was about field stripping Rugers. Some think it's hard, some think it's just a bit of a trick that requires a little practice.

I guess I have no idea what you think."


Then read my post. As it states, I was adjusting the factory overtravel screw which is hidden on the front of the edge of the upper trigger and can not be adjusted without removing the trigger. I would never be insane enough to take a trigger out for cleaning, but I'm not to blame that Ruger was too stupid to put the overtravel screw down on the exteriror of the trigger where every body else puts it. And, you have to adjust it by turning the screw, reassembling the gun and checking, taking it out and turning the screw, repeat ad nauseum....


"The next time you want to take your Mark2 apart, just go to yzguy's site and follow the pictures and instructions. A lot easier than trying to do it with drawings. Then you can time yourself with a 30 minute timer."

Actually, the reason the time stretched out so long is because (as stated above) adjusting the over travel screw requires REPEATED disasembly and assembly of the trigger assy, trigger bar and hammer assy. I don't think a video is going to change that, although I will certainly look at the video.
 
"Do you guys get really frustrated when you can't get a gun to go back together? The first time I took my MKII apart I thought I was gonna have to take an anger management course. In fact, it wasn't a whole lot better the last time I took it apart. Luckily, this time I knew what was wrong, so I took a time out and came back a couple of hours later, and it went back together on the first try."

Actually, I am experienced at smithing a number of different guns. Until meeting the Ruger, the Browning HP was the undisputed king of worst gun to remove/replace a trigger. Ruger definitely has the HP beat.
 
"The next time you want to take your Mark2 apart, just go to yzguy's site and follow the pictures and instructions. A lot easier than trying to do it with drawings. Then you can time yourself with a 30 minute timer.

http://www.1bad69.com/ruger/internals.htm"

Actually, those are exactly the pictures I was referring to which I said enabled me to re-assemble my gun. I printed them out and taped them to pages some time back and I use it as my reference guide for assembly. Without them, I would have been screwed.
 
bountyhunter sez:
... you have to adjust it by turning the screw, reassembling the gun and checking, taking it out and turning the screw, repeat ad nauseum....
Click to expand...
That's for dang sure! I used to be able to disassemble/reassemble my MkII in about 2 minutes. After going through the overtravel adjustment routine (I recall I had to disassemble/reassemble the gun more than 10 times before I got it just right), I could break it down and put it back together in around 45 seconds total time. I was cursing the Ruger designers for putting the adj. screw in such a screwy place all the while.
 
I got rid of my MKII because I HATED taking it apart. Another reason I love taking apart my FAL......... IT'S EASY!!!:)
 
OK, you got rid of you MkII 'cuz it was a PITA to take apart. Just what did you replace it with? And, did you find it to be as reliable/durable, etc.....?
 
Well, I guess it's certainly probably durable and reliable. And you can't say it's hard to take apart for cleaning......

Good choice.
 
I think taking apart an AR is easier than that darn MKII. I've been told they are great guns, but my 50th Anniversary annoyed me.

I got a lot pickier after buying the MKII. The only pisol/rifle I've had any headaches with since then was my 10/22. Turned out it was just a mag problem and not really the gun.

The Single Six is a great little 22 pistol. I can knock down bowling pins with the weakest 22LR ammo at 10yds.
 
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