Bang around duty gun for armored car work.

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M-12/UM-84 holsters...

I had a M-12/UM-84 type holster for my M-9 9mmNATO pistol when I was on active duty(US Army MP) and I bought a black UM-84R revolver model holster for my Ruger GP-100 in 2006 that I used for armed security work.

These Bianchi nylon holsters are rugged and good for some jobs, but the metal clips can snag on your belt or clothes, :mad:. I've had the metal part get caught up on the belt loops of my uniform pants or BDU shirt more than a few times.

These rigs are best for rain/snow/bad weather, :D.

The secured flap may also slow your draw too, ;).
 
When I got out of the NAVY, my 1st. job was with an armored transport CO. I bought a S&W 686 .357 MAG. with a 4 in. bbl. When we made the transition to the BERETTA .40 cal. Model 96 DAO. I was given the choice of one or the other because I had qualified with both, all new hieres would use the BERETTA. I kept my S&W 686 for two reasons. I did not like the trigger pull on the on the BERETTA, { In the NAVY I was one of the last people to qualafie on the COLT 1911-A-1 & the S&W M-15 , I could be wrong about the M-15 disegnation but it was a 4 in. bbl. .38 S&W SPL. CTG. revolver.} also, I'm not going to be getting into a running gun battel as an armed transporter. the 1st. thing they told me in fierarms training was all the cargo IS INSURED ! The only reasone you have a sidearm is to PROTECT YOURSELF & YOUR CREW ! If the pro's are going to hit your truck weither you live or die is up to them, see the movie HEAT with Robert Denero & Al Pachenio. the other reason was if someone tries to take me 1 on 1 at contact distance, & I push the gun into the other persons body, with a semi-auto the gun might go out of battery & not fier, with a revolver this won't happen. The gun is NOT the most important part. stay in shape, alwaws have a clean & pressed uniform, keep your hair short, your boots shined & your head on a swivel ! Don"t B.S. with anyone ! I made 70+jumps a day on the west & south/west side of Chicago for just over a yr. before I got another job and the only guy's that ever got tried were the oldtimers that used the butts of their revolvers for rubberband holders. stay safe. :)
 
I worked for an armored car company for six years and my duty weapon changed from a Ruger P95 9mm (lowest price and I could afford it) and Ifinished up with a S&W M&P40, with a couple Glocks in between. None of my guns ever got "banged up" by doors, or anything else. I've found that a lot of armored car guys are not really gun guys, just looking for a way to make a living until a real job came along, so they weren't all that careful. You, being concerned with the condition of your weapon, would probably be more careful. Knowing that the chances of using your weapon are relatively slim (I never even drew my weapon except for loading/unloading at the loading barrel, or for range qualification) being mindful of your weapon should not be a big deal. Go with your M&P, you won't be sorry.
 
The whole point is the guy's mentality. Serious consideration of changing from a reliable, known weapon system to another of lesser value simply for the sake of maintaining collector's value is not only STUPID, it's SILLY. He is literally placing the condition of a tool OVER his life. This indicates to me he is not mentally prepared for a real life encounter.

Harsh? Sure. But it's also a reality check for him.

He needs to do some serious personal introspection if his values are so messed up that this even comes up as a consideration. Hopefully, he'll realize that a scratched finish on a gun is unimportant and that the gun is a tool meant to be used. He needs to invest in some serious training and get his mindset adjusted.
 
I agree, stick with the M&P. If you've got it tricked out for CCW or comp shooting, get another one and slap a day-glow sight on it. Keep that as a duty gun. Break it in, keep it respectfuly clean, but don't worry about beating it up. The gun can take it.

You need to have a gun you know the feel of. Everything should be instinctual, from the draw to the reload. You could choose to learn a revolver for that purpose, but you're looking at some time for that practice to become training. During this time, you are at risk from your own skills. If the M&P is approved, and you're good with it, stick to it. Be sure to practice Failure to Stop drills. Most handgun calibers don't have the velocity to punch through body armor.

The important thing is to remember is that if you're attacked, you'll probably be behind the curve, and you'll need to be thinking of everything except how to draw and shoot the gun.
An America's Most Wanted a few months back has a reenactment of an armored car person being attacked outside a theater. The deliveryman had no chance to react as he was shot from behind. There were all kinds of failures of the system to result in this, most notable being (at least according to the reenactment) the driver not noticing a guy with a hood and sunglasses hovering in an alley near the door. The Deliveryman wasn't looking around for threats, checking six, etc.
Had the threat been spotted fast enough, the guy could have deployed his weapon. Had the driver recognised a possible threat, he could have waved off the return trip for a few minutes.
Point is, your weapon is adequate for the job, and you have the practice with it already. Refine that skill, rather than spend a lot of time learning a new one.
 
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