Thanks!
Belgian Bicycle Gun - Black Powder (EDIT well no, not black powder) 22 Centerfire
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Thanks!
Got the solder and flux and started to practice. Yeah, this is not going to be one of those things that I pick up on quickly.
After my first attempt to silver solder a small washer onto a heavy piece of practice steel failed I thought I would see if the bushing idea was going to work. The smaller diameter of the cylinder pin had been worn short and was beveled at the end and would sometimes slip out of irs anchor hole in the recoil shield causing the misfires.
The idea was to anchor a brass bushing into the hole in the recoil shield and extend it just past the face of the recoil shield and flare it out to accept the cylinder pin. That couldn't work as the rarchet teeth on the back of the cylinder couldn't pass any projection in front of the recoil shield. So I fabricated a bushing to fit on the end of the cylinder pin and inside the center of the cylinder. This isn't elegant and it certainly is a wear part, but it locks the cylinder tightly in place and doesn't interfere with the function of the firearm.
Bushing on the end of the cylinder pin
Bushing inserted into the hole in the frame
Bushing through the cylinder
What I wouldn't give for a lathe. The bushing is pretty ugly but it is the best I can do by hand fabricating/fitting. But the cylinder is rock solid now.
After my first attempt to silver solder a small washer onto a heavy piece of practice steel failed I thought I would see if the bushing idea was going to work. The smaller diameter of the cylinder pin had been worn short and was beveled at the end and would sometimes slip out of irs anchor hole in the recoil shield causing the misfires.
The idea was to anchor a brass bushing into the hole in the recoil shield and extend it just past the face of the recoil shield and flare it out to accept the cylinder pin. That couldn't work as the rarchet teeth on the back of the cylinder couldn't pass any projection in front of the recoil shield. So I fabricated a bushing to fit on the end of the cylinder pin and inside the center of the cylinder. This isn't elegant and it certainly is a wear part, but it locks the cylinder tightly in place and doesn't interfere with the function of the firearm.
Bushing on the end of the cylinder pin
Bushing inserted into the hole in the frame
Bushing through the cylinder
What I wouldn't give for a lathe. The bushing is pretty ugly but it is the best I can do by hand fabricating/fitting. But the cylinder is rock solid now.
Jackrabbit1957
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An interesting and clever solution, if you need it turned or cleaned up on a lathe your welcome to use mine.
I may well take you up on the lathe. I have another center pin to turn for one of my spur trigger revolvers. I also want to have you clean up my 1849. How's your workload?
I have an idea for another bushing. This one is a single piece of tubing small enough to enter the hole in the recoil shield and flared out to go around the end of the center pin. The next one will be 2 pieces. One tube that fits over the center pin and either a smaller tube or rod to enter the hole in the frame. Probably using steel tube.
As it is the center pin is held a fraction of an inch from fully seating. You can see it in the picture of the bushing seated above. I may be able to reduce that distance with a better made bushing but I don't think I can cure that condition completely without shortening the center pin. And I'm not going to do that.
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The 5.75 Velodog cartridge is approximately the same dimensions as a 22 CCM round. It was originally designed as a smokeless round. I bought 60 rounds of loaded 22 CCM ammunition from Reeds Ammunition a couple of years ago along with a set of dies from CH4D. I pulled the bullets and powder. The cartridge is reported to have been a little less powerful than a 22 LR. I'm just now working up a load and the test fire was done with the bullet pulled from a factory Blazer round and the charge from that same round minus about 0.20 grains. I have other charges loaded but stopped testing when the firearm malfunctioned.
Reed doesn't show anymore in stock but the cases can be made from 22 Hornet. There is one seller I found on line who makes them from the hornet but the cost is $4.10 each.
WOW! at $4.10 each how many does one need? LOL!. being very interested in the subject, what is a CCM? a 22 magnum? only CTR, fire? I have never heard of it. any CH4D dies that I have bought set me back at least or over $ 100.00 + they are the best on the market today, and have or will make all of the oddball caliber's. sorry for all of the questions. toot44.
CCM is a Cooper Centerfire Magnum. Basically a centerfire 22 magnum. Google CCM or Cooper Centerfire Magnum and you’ll get better information than I can provide.
I suspect that the supply of cases is gone and anything new will be made from Hornet cases.
I suspect that the supply of cases is gone and anything new will be made from Hornet cases.
I tried to fabricate an improved bushing out of 2 pieces of different tube with no success. I think I'm going to shoot it like it is until I learn how to silver solder. Then I'll repair it how I see it as correct by soldering on a washer to grow the cylinder pin an appropriate amount.
I did learn that you can't silver solder brass with an oxy/mapp gas torch.
On to load development while I learn to solder.
I did learn that you can't silver solder brass with an oxy/mapp gas torch.
On to load development while I learn to solder.
Jackrabbit1957
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Hey John, got 3 pending and one on the bench, with 2 more to look at. Main thing is a few days warning before coming down, I can slip you in somewhere.
[QUOTE I did learn that you can't silver solder brass with an oxy/mapp gas torch.[/QUOTE]
Yes you can! I do it all the time. If the brass is thin you just have to be very carful of the heat. If you are silver soldering thin brass to a thicker material direct most of the heat towards the thick metal.
SC45-70
Yes you can! I do it all the time. If the brass is thin you just have to be very carful of the heat. If you are silver soldering thin brass to a thicker material direct most of the heat towards the thick metal.
SC45-70
It goes to show how much I have to learn. The finely crafted part I fabricated out of brass tube melted under the spring pressure of the alligator clip I was using to hold the pieces in place.
Paul R Zartman
Contributing Member
Got side tracked this week, hope I'm not too late to see the game...
As you can see, tip is approximately .25 inch long and slight taper on the end
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Not late at all. Thanks for the information. It confirms that mine is worn. Where yours is 0.25" mine is 0.13".
I was able to shoot the rest of the 60 rounds I loaded. I took both devices to video the outcome. Im no videographer to say the least. So all I have to show for it is a single close up of the firearm firing.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/CfpmVdrdGktZu5aS6
All went bang but I did have 3 fail to fire. The misfires were isolated from each other and all three took several tries to finally go off. So I'm not sure if the brass bushing wasn't up to firing or if there was a primer Issue. I'll have to evaluate it further.
All 3 loads were too light except possibly the bullet/powder pulled from the Blazer cartridges. All 3 had primers that backed out and intermittently caused jams. The 2 loads with 1.3 grains of Unique both had powder residue on the cases leading me to believe that the cases were not expanding in the chambers.
The best load appeared to be the 1.3 grain Unique load using the 29 grain bullet pulled from some 22 shorts I had. I was able to get that load to group at least. Both the 40 grain Blazer load and the 36 grain bullets/1.3 grain Unique load appeared to be tumbling and accuracy stunk. The 29 grain short projectile may well have been tumbling too, but they are so short it may not have been evident. I was hoping to be able to use pulled bullets from 22 LR cartridges but I think they are too small. I really need 0.225" diameter projectiles to get to 0.001over groove diameter. I think my next loading session I'll try the jacketed bullets that came with the 22 CCM loaded ammunition. I'll have to consider the charge though. With the jacketed bullets offering more resistance I suspect they will increase the pressure even if I use the same charge of Unique. 2/10ths of a grain error could produce an overcharge with these small charges.
Overall not a bad outing. Not great, but not bad.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/CfpmVdrdGktZu5aS6
All went bang but I did have 3 fail to fire. The misfires were isolated from each other and all three took several tries to finally go off. So I'm not sure if the brass bushing wasn't up to firing or if there was a primer Issue. I'll have to evaluate it further.
All 3 loads were too light except possibly the bullet/powder pulled from the Blazer cartridges. All 3 had primers that backed out and intermittently caused jams. The 2 loads with 1.3 grains of Unique both had powder residue on the cases leading me to believe that the cases were not expanding in the chambers.
The best load appeared to be the 1.3 grain Unique load using the 29 grain bullet pulled from some 22 shorts I had. I was able to get that load to group at least. Both the 40 grain Blazer load and the 36 grain bullets/1.3 grain Unique load appeared to be tumbling and accuracy stunk. The 29 grain short projectile may well have been tumbling too, but they are so short it may not have been evident. I was hoping to be able to use pulled bullets from 22 LR cartridges but I think they are too small. I really need 0.225" diameter projectiles to get to 0.001over groove diameter. I think my next loading session I'll try the jacketed bullets that came with the 22 CCM loaded ammunition. I'll have to consider the charge though. With the jacketed bullets offering more resistance I suspect they will increase the pressure even if I use the same charge of Unique. 2/10ths of a grain error could produce an overcharge with these small charges.
Overall not a bad outing. Not great, but not bad.
This was the best I could do with the 29 grain bullets at a little less than 7 yards. Top left. Center target is someones Hellcat 9 mm that I tried.
As you can see the 40 and 36 grain projectiles were uncontrollable. Bottom left target.
Not many round holes. Top right center is the 9mm and top left is 32 S&W Round Ball Black powder. I pushed the edges in to show the shape of the holes.
To keep this Black Powder related, here is the group of 32 S&W Black Powder Round Ball loads. I'm still well pleased with how well the .310 round ball does in a .312 groove diameter. Maybe I should just find a .225 round ball for the Velodog.
As you can see the 40 and 36 grain projectiles were uncontrollable. Bottom left target.
Not many round holes. Top right center is the 9mm and top left is 32 S&W Round Ball Black powder. I pushed the edges in to show the shape of the holes.
To keep this Black Powder related, here is the group of 32 S&W Black Powder Round Ball loads. I'm still well pleased with how well the .310 round ball does in a .312 groove diameter. Maybe I should just find a .225 round ball for the Velodog.
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