Bloodwork revolver .vs the new 627 8Xs

[Montana Billy]

I just came across a "Bloodwork" S&W 627-3 on an auction site today. I know S&W has come out with that same revolver at just over $1,000, though there may be a slight wait. The only difference I can see is that one is a Performance Center gun and comes with the aluminum case and the other is a production gun with a plastic case.
Is there anything to recommend one over the other? Question 2: What would be a reasonable price to pay for one of the original guns? I know they used to command a hefty bit of green.
Thanks in advance for responding.

 

[Stainz]

You are in error - both are PC revolvers and come in PC cases, the current being grey plastic case marked 'Performance Center' and considerably nicer than the production blue boxes. My '01-'02 vintage 5" JM Pc627 V-Comp is a 627-3, came in the cheesy metal box, while my '10 2 5/8" UDR PC627 is a 627-5, like my 4" 627 Pro. That's the frame - the IL is included in both. Even the SKU is the same from '99 to '10 on the UDR PC627. The original MSRP was $1199 - now it's $1185. Same 'tuned innards', hammer, trigger with stop, sights, and even the poor fitting Eagle boot grips.

As someone else pointed out to me - the actual '02 movie, 'Blood Work', featured a different revolver. Looks similar - probably lighter - want to guess the difference? (Hint: Look at the cylinder!!)

Seriously - take a number - get in line - buy a current production - same gun, just cheaper. Mine is a keeper.

Stainz

PS I'll save you watching the first part of the movie - the cylinder is fluted in the movie, flush in the PC627... go figure.

 

[johnny blaze]

As stated above, they are both PC revolvers.
You can get the new one for 900.00 to 1000.00. The new one comes with a plastic performance case. The older one comes with a aluminum performance case.
The older ones were going for 1000.00 up to 3500.00, depending on condition.
With the introduction of the new revolver, who knows what it is going to do to the price of the older ones. Of course, the newer ones have the dreaded lock, which to me is no big deal if I can save a bunch on one of these compared to an older one.

 

[girvin02]

Original


New Version


Besides the obvious addition of the internal lock, the front site profile is noticably different. It also appears that the grips are of a lighter color, on the new version, at least on all of the new ones I've seen pictures of. I had a chance to purchase an original, about two years ago, for $1,500. I'm still kicking myself for not making the deal happen. I don't think that the release of the new version will have much effect on the value of originals, but hope that I'm wrong.

 

[Montana Billy]

The one on the auction site appears to have the dark grips, two sets, in fact, plus another, different type. Thanks for posting the photos.

 

[girvin02]

The bottom picture was copied off of a gunbroker.com auction. There are several on there for less than a grand.

 

[Cocked & Locked]

My original version...replaced the Eagle grips with Craig Spegel grips.

 

[Montana Billy]

Nice grips!

Those are beauties!

The ones on the auction site (three sets) look like a decent start, though they don't do so well when placed next to yours.

 

[Cocked & Locked]

The one thing I DO NOT LIKE about these revolvers is the laser etched wording on the barrel. Mine is about worn away from carrying the gun and using it.

I would have much preferred S&W to have stuck with the standard roll mark method that stays.

 

[girvin02]

Mr. Cocked & Locked, I can tell that the worn laser etching bothers you greatly. I'm a nice guy and hate to see a fellow S&W enthusiast unhappy. Tell you what, send me that old worn out UDR and I'll send you a check to cover the cost of a brand new UDR? What do you say?

 

[Montana Billy]

Difference

I am beginning to see that there may, indeed, be a difference between the original UDR (Bloodwork) guns from Lew Horton and the new ones.
I am sure both are sweet guns with few differences, other than slight cosmetics and the internal lock. I like the aluminum case but the plastic ones seem to do the job as well.

 

[Cocked & Locked]

Mr. Cocked & Locked, I can tell that the worn laser etching bothers you greatly. I'm a nice guy and hate to see a fellow S&W enthusiast unhappy. Tell you what, send me that old worn out UDR and I'll send you a check to cover the cost of a brand new UDR? What do you say?

Thanks for the offer...I'll keep that in mind! After a few more cups of coffee this morning, I'm going to get my electric pencil vibrating engraver and and go over the laser etching. If that doesn't turn out well I'll let you know.

I like the aluminum case but the plastic ones seem to do the job as well.

The aluminum case is nice. Its sits in the safe no better than the plastic ones however. My Eagle grips are dark like the ones pictured below in the original ad copy. They fit fine with no gaps.

 

[johnny blaze]

I am wondering on these revolvers, if you have to have it re blasted to original, what would one do about the laser etching?
On these finishes, I read a long while ago about someone using a material to touch up shiny spots from carrying them, to match the original finish, but I cannot remember what they used. Anyone know?

 

[Cocked & Locked]

...if you have to have it re blasted to original, what would one do about the laser etching?

tell it, "bye, bye"

...a material to touch up shiny spots from carrying them, to match the original finish, but I cannot remember what they used. Anyone know?

Some folks use Scotch Brite pads to restore the finish and get rid of scratches and bright spots. Never done it though. Got a friend that's really good at it.

 

[18DAI]

Very nice Cocked & Locked!! Nice looking rig you have for it too!

For the amount of money alone, I'd hold out and search for an original before I'd buy one of the knock offs with the ugly zit. TJ