Bought a cheap 1911 commander style just because.

[unclenunzie]

Picked up a Turkish commander style 1911, just to have one for possible carry purposes but mostly because it seemed decently made for a low price (under present conditions). Tisas "Carry" model that specifically lists two things I thought well of: 1) forged frame & slide and barrel/chromed. 2) Uses series 70 type internals. They also put a tag on it says "Hardened Before Machining". Black Ceracote. The slide, frame, and barrel fit looked pretty good, better than expected.

Now, I was certain going into it that every part would be MIM or as cheaply made as possible, and I expected there to be issues. I decided it would be a project gun that when finished would help me learn more about the platform and how to fit parts properly. And if it worked properly and safely I could carry it. But to start, it actually worked fine from the get go. I bought a couple metalform 7 round rounded follower mags, one worked fine, the other mag wasn't made right and I sent it back for replacement (works). A hundred rounds through, no issues, aluminum and brass cased ball.

Things I didn't like: I found the right side safety dug into my (left) thumb uncomfortably. It was also way too thin to reliably hold the plunger, over-travelled past fire, and just plain ugly. The trigger pull was kind of bleh over 5.5 pounds, creep and grit. Decided to do a trigger job on it by buying a sear jig, stones and a hammer squaring file from Brownell's. This worked out just fine and gave me confidence to do more.

So, after destroying a couple of quality MIM thumb safeties learning how to properly fit one, AND how to file metal with proper files, I decided to make the leap to a quality forged thumb safety and tool steel ignition set and extractor. And of course I had to get a quality firing pin stop, and replace the firing pin and all the springs, and well, you get the picture.

What I have left is a bag of what I consider to be junk internal parts and springs, and a pistol that now has all hardened tool steel internals (except ejector) that is 100%. Had I actually planned to completely gut this pistol I probably would have picked a single brand of parts - but wound up going with a mix - All USA made from quality makers:

Slide: Harrison Design Extractor, Firing pin stop, Firing pin. Ed Brown bushing, recoil guide and plug.
Frame: HD disconnector, hammer. EGW sear, mainspring housing. Stock ejector and grip safety. Wilson bulletproof ambi safety, slide stop, plunger tube, plunger assembly, lightweight trigger, mag catch.
Springs: Wolff 23 pound hammer spring, 18 pound recoil spring + extra power FP return spring. Colt Sear spring.
Pins: HD pin set, + Wilson short sear pin.

I fitted each part that needed fitting and made sure every safety and function checked right multiple times. Went through the live fire test procedure to check for hammer follow, sear bounce, doubling, etc, all good.

Things I found along the way:

I had to learn how to file not only on flat surfaces but on curves. Mark the piece, one complete stroke at a time, test fit. Repeat... The right tools matter. You cannot fit a sear without a jig, nor stake a plunger tube without a staking tool. And when properly applied, a Dremel is not a tool of the devil (for chamfering plunger tube frame holes). Tisas did not chamfer the holes originally. I used a cheap punch to tap the original tube off. I think it was glued in.

The slide cut for the safety was cut too deep by Tisas. As a result the safety will ride high locked, bringing the back of the safety stud into contact with the hammer. After fitting to the sear I had to clearance the back of the stud to allow hammer over travel when locked. This took me a while to figure out but once I did I was happy with the result.

I left the original grip safety in place because I am too chicken to tackle fitting one until I learn more. And I want to learn how to cold blue to cover the scratches and worn spots from detail stripping it dozens of times.

Here's a picture after surgery. It's ugly but it works (247 rounds hardball), and will get a new set of
Altamonts once they come in. I really like the Wilson safety. It uses a hammer pin with a screw to hold on the right side safety paddle. The new parts in the gun added several hundred dollars to the price, but for nearly all forged / tool steel parts, I could not buy a name brand 1911 for twice the money, nor learn as much as I did.

"She may not look like much, but she's got it where it counts, kid.” - Han Solo

 

[mjsdwash]

my old Springfield GI has a few replacement parts, not as many as yours, but same effect. Hi quality, forged where it counts, everything fits, works, and the gun runs. Turkey was a global superpower not too long ago, there are some still alive who remember. The old parts may be good.

 

[1KPerDay]

Good job. I’ve never fitted a thumb safety on a 1911. I did a high power but I’m sure it’s different. I’ve staked the plunger tube and tuned ejectors and extractors but haven’t dared mess with the sear or hammer.

 

[unclenunzie]

It's funny I was more concerned about the extractor fitting than the safety. More fitting required and I had never done one before. The ignition parts are made to very tight tolerances and you can see and feel if they are working right. I didn't have to do anything to them except make sure. I also compared them to the original parts. Trigger breaks clean at just about 4 pounds. Safety locks the sear rock solid against the hammer. In fact I checked my 12 year old stock Springfield 1911 and found the safety was not locking the sear solid, had to refit it. I was surprised, had not shot it in a long time.

 

[ontarget]

Sounds like it was a worthwhile project. I've been eye balling one of those Tisas 45 carry models myself but haven't made the jump yet.

 

[Tallball]

Good solid work, and nice result!

 

[MedWheeler]

My TISAS GI-type (A2) is darn handsome, and solid. It's run what I've put through it and the only thing I changed is its plastic grip panels, at first to smooth wood ones, then to darker-wood checkereds.

They seem to be pretty good guns. Mine ran me $350 a few years ago. Certainly a good platform for a "1911-learner."

 

[CoalCrackerAl]

Congrats on the 1911.

 

[unclenunzie]

Those parked gi type got my attention but I never did see one in a shop.

 

[HPJeep]

Always wanted to do what you did to a cheap 1911 to learn about it. In fact I bought a Tisas SDS Imports US Army 1911 to give to my nephew for his college graduation present which will be next year.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

That 1911 doesn't look all that bad. You made it 100% reliable, that's what counts. You didn't comment on it's accurately, how is it.

I bought an older Springfield Government 45 ACP model years ago. All I changed was the firing pin and spring because I did t like how the end of the firing pin looked. I used a Wolff spring and a Colt titanium firing pin. Everything else looked fine and has been fine for many years. I change the recoil spring every 5,000 to 6,000 rounds using Wolff springs there too.

 

[Mainsail]

Great post! There's a lot of benefit to starting with a good pistol and making it great. Now you can probably build one up from parts.

Are you a lefty? Wondering if you kept the right side safety or deleted it.

 

[gonetocamp]

uncleunzie: my path with the Tisas Carry was similar to yours. First thing to go was the ambi safety. Installed a Ruger TS. It also now sports a Chip McCormick trigger from a pre-series II Kimber, a Harrison Design hammer/strut/pin, EGW sear, Wolff 18lb recoil spring and firing pin spring, and Colt sear spring. I had to buy a Brownell's trigger track stone as the track machining was a bit rough. That stone also came in handy for removing some burrs from the inside of the sear pin frame holes. Added Kimber walnut grips.

 

[unclenunzie]

Left handed, the right side safety is a must for me. The original Tisas right side safety was not beveled, it was square and overhangs the frame tang. As a result it dug into the bone at the base of my thumb. Not fun to shoot, that had to get replaced.

 

[unclenunzie]

uncleunzie: my path with the Tisas Carry was similar to yours. First thing to go was the ambi safety. Installed a Ruger TS. It also now sports a Chip McCormick trigger from a pre-series II Kimber, a Harrison Design hammer/strut/pin, EGW sear, Wolff 18lb recoil spring and firing pin spring, and Colt sear spring. I had to buy a Brownell's trigger track stone as the track machining was a bit rough. That stone also came in handy for removing some burrs from the inside of the sear pin frame holes. Added Kimber walnut grips.

Remarkably similar. I bought the HD ignition set which of course included a sear, but I found that while everything worked properly the safety stud and sear stop shoulder engagement was a little to small for my liking. Absolutely nothing wrong with the parts, they are excellent. I think tolerance stacking in my particular frame is the cause. So I looked around at several high grade sears and the EGW hard sear seemed to have a slightly larger stop shoulder, and when installed made me more comfortable.

 

[unclenunzie]

That 1911 doesn't look all that bad. You made it 100% reliable, that's what counts. You didn't comment on it's accurately, how is it.

I bought an older Springfield Government 45 ACP model years ago. All I changed was the firing pin and spring because I did t like how the end of the firing pin looked. I used a Wolff spring and a Colt titanium firing pin. Everything else looked fine and has been fine for many years. I change the recoil spring every 5,000 to 6,000 rounds using Wolff springs there too.

I'm lucky enough to live out in the woods and can shoot on my property. One of these days I will have to create a more formalized range. It seems accurate at the very short distances I am shooting it (5-10 yards). My chosen targets are easy to hit consistently, mostly a dirt bank and dead branches. Mechanically it should be accurate, the lockup is consistent and there's no barrel/slide play. One of the things that impressed me handling it in the store was the lockup and the slide to frame fit also. It's just a relatively cheap import, but I think it offers value as long as you don't expect too much.

About the only things I dislike is the slide's safety cut (cut a little too high), and the Cerakote finish while even and nice looking is wearing through in handling areas. For $469 I can live with it.

 

[Rock185]

uncle, Glad to see you took the time to fit the thumb safety, and were willing to sacrifice a couple to get it right. I was an armorer in LE and attended the Colt O-Frame class more than once. We went through a lot of thumb safeties in the O-Frame class to learn to fit them properly. So many on the internet seem to think the thumb safety in a drop-in part, and if it will click up and down it is properly fitted. As you know, this is not so....

 

[ArchAngelCD]

Very cool, thanks for the report. I bet that gun would do well in 9mm, better yet, the .38 Super.

 

[unclenunzie]

Quick update. After about 400 rounds the stock ejector loosened up so I took that as an opportunity to fit a new Harrison Design ejector. Used his recommended procedure along with a little 262 locktite and solid cross pin. Cases toss to the right between 2-5 o'clock maybe 4-6 feet away. There is the barest smudge of brass on the inside of the ejection port after 4 mags. I'm not going to try and tune ejection further.

As a left-hander I also ground flat my slide stop pin to just under flush. Prior to this, twice my right thumb caused the pin to lock the slide as it passed the disassembly notch. Has not happened since. I'm at 487 rounds so far. Apart from that one bad/replaced metalform mag not one failure.

 

[Riomouse911]

Great post, thanks for all the info.

I plan on changing sear springs in a couple of 1911’s soon to help improve the trigger pulls.

Just for my edification if you don’t mind, what is the total amount that you’re into the project for gun and parts?

Stay safe.

 

[unclenunzie]

Call it 1150 with parts in the gun. Additional 270 in parts I learned on, so project total runs about 1500. I could have bought a nicer 1911 to start with but the process has been great fun and I learned a lot.

Keep in mind I replaced every part except barrel, link, and grip safety. A full set of top quality ignition parts will be a lot less, 120-150. You'll need to fit a safety once you do anything with ignition parts.

 

[Roverguy]

Fine looking pistol. Congrats.

 

[md7]

I was gifted an SA Mil Spec last year. My first 1911. I’ve learned that I really enjoy a basic, reliable 1911 and I’ve learned that for me, the 1911 is a pistol worth using and investing in.

Nice job on all you’ve done with yours! I enjoy reading this type of stuff.

 

[unclenunzie]

Upthread was asked about accuracy. I finally got around to doing a quick accuracy check with live fire. My eyes are not what they used to be but this pistol shoots well. 7+1 four times. The small targets were kneeling with my hands braced on a stool. The center mass was me standing, no support. I know, I suck, but the pistol doesn't. Federal AE 230 grain hardball, 7 yards. 664 rounds and she's rock solid.


How she looks today: