BP revolver: loading priorities

[DaveP (UK)]

I've been looking at my loading technique to see if I can make any improvements there that could contribute to my overall performance. I've noticed some variability in loads. On a bad day, in some cylinders the ball will end up below the mouth of the cylinder before feeling seated, in others I really have to use force to get it all in.

I think the biggest culprit here is the scoop I use to measure the filler. Sometimes it seems to pack really solid when I dip it in the cornmeal. I do have one or two ideas about this but it's left me wondering about what is really important here.

Which is more important: To have the ball seated consistently in relation to the face of the cylinder? Or to have the charge compressed consistently?

As I understand it both are Good Things, but I dont seem to be able to do both at the same time. If charge compression is the more significant factor then I can cut down the scoop, so that I never have to lean on the loading lever again.

 

[mykeal]

Powder compression needs to be consistent

IMHO you need to ensure that you compress the powder the same amount every time if you expect consistency. That can seriously affect the burn rate and resulting pressure spike, both size and timing. Where the ball starts from is much less important. The distance simply affects the time it takes for the ball to get out of the gun, and the ball will travel that little extra distance very,very quickly. My opinion.

 

[Plink]

Dave, the ideal would be to find a way to achieve consistency and still keep the ball in the upper chamber. If the scoop you're using for cornmeal is the culprit, try a different scoop until you find a setup that works. Perhaps lubed felt wads would work better for you, rather than cornmeal?

From the safety aspect, powder compression is the more important of the two, but combined with proper ball seating, both are desirable for maximum accuracy.

 

[Niner]

Skip the cornmeal or cream of wheat. Get some "wonder wads", or the like, and your loads will be more consistant. The drill is powder, "wonder wad", ball, then press the load down with the loading lever.

 

[enkindler]

I typically use two powder horns for my cap and ball rigs. Both drop a 20 grain charge but one is full of cornmeal. I think by just letting the spout fill you tend to get a more constant charge, because cornmeal doesn't flow as well as powder I use a clear Thompson Center U-View Powder Flask.

 

[DaveP (UK)]

Well thanks for those thoughts! I knew from general reading that charge compression was something that needed to be controlled, but I've only come across dire warnings about "the jump to the forcing cone"! Makes it difficult to know which way to go.

What I intend to do now then is to progessively reduce the size of the 9mm case I've been using until I can get the ball properly seated with a light and even pressure 100% of the time. That'll be a practical improvement if nothing more! What think I need long term is to find/make a flared scoop so that the cornmeal flows in and out of it more easily - that could take a while. I know that sets of (Lee?) powder scoops can be bought, but over here they run at about 35 to 40 dollars which seems a lot of cash to lay out just to get one scoop to load a revolver...

The problem with wonderwads is also cost. with a 20gr target charge I'd need to use two or three at a time.

Thinking laterally, or trying to! I know someone who uses light and physically small loads in a .32 Cadet rifle. They're small because he is using smokeless in a case that was designed for BP. (It is an approved load, so no phone calls!). Anyway, he just scrunches up a cigarette paper and inserts it just under his bullet. He reckons its just enough to keep the powder against the primer.

It might not be suitable for a gun that will be carted about loaded, but do you think that could work for a revolver target session?

 

[AzShooter1]

Read any owner's manual for BPs and they will tell you to NEVER USE SMOKELESS POWDER.

The steel used in BP guns is not as strong as what is used in smokeless so your friend is carrying around a time bomb.

 

[Plink]

Dave, rather than buying premade wads, it's cheaper to make them yourself. I buy felt from durofelt.com to make mine but you may have a local source if you look around. You can punch them out and lube them with homemade lube and get better results than wonder wads for a lot less money. Good luck to ya.

 

[DaveP (UK)]

Read any owner's manual for BPs and they will tell you to NEVER USE SMOKELESS POWDER.

The steel used in BP guns is not as strong as what is used in smokeless so your friend is carrying around a time bomb.

I just knew someone would jump in!
I didnt say his gun was designed for BP, just that the cartridge was. Originally. Rather like the .303 British?
Thanks anyway for a kindly warning

Plink: I had thought of doing something like that once before but it seemed like a lot of trouble to be taking. Perhaps it is time to reconsider, especially as it now appears that you can use perfumed lubes...

See "Couple of Questions"