breakfree clp
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NMPOPS
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I've been using Breakfree exclusively for years. I like it.
RetiredUSNChief
Member
Personally, I love it.
I don't use it as a substitute for lubrication...that's what oil is for in my opinion. But for cleaning it's a godsend.
Let's put it this way...for the few bucks it takes to buy a can, you really can't lose much by trying it for yourself.
I don't use it as a substitute for lubrication...that's what oil is for in my opinion. But for cleaning it's a godsend.
Let's put it this way...for the few bucks it takes to buy a can, you really can't lose much by trying it for yourself.
243winxb
Member
good for long term storage
The cylinder on my S&W 337PD has always turned hard. Not free and loose like others. So a drop of CLP was applied now and then. Never seemed to help. Cleaning the area with hoppe's no 9 solvent, keeps bring out this pasty looking stuff. Having 2 bottles of CLP, i go to pour the older into the newer bottle. The same pasty grease is inside the neck of both bottles. After shaking the bottle, it still remains. I know from years of use that CLP will build up like dried heavy oil. So any excess is wiped off. CLP is still good for long term storage. Always remove CLP from the bore before firing. Teflon does not work well at high temperatures.
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The cylinder on my S&W 337PD has always turned hard. Not free and loose like others. So a drop of CLP was applied now and then. Never seemed to help. Cleaning the area with hoppe's no 9 solvent, keeps bring out this pasty looking stuff. Having 2 bottles of CLP, i go to pour the older into the newer bottle. The same pasty grease is inside the neck of both bottles. After shaking the bottle, it still remains. I know from years of use that CLP will build up like dried heavy oil. So any excess is wiped off. CLP is still good for long term storage. Always remove CLP from the bore before firing. Teflon does not work well at high temperatures.
frankenstein406
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- Jan 9, 2011
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- 816
Used it for a bit but switched to slip evil
dagger dog
Member
Like every thing about it, lubes, cleans, protects, but the smell and taste of the aerosol overspray is horrible.
RetiredUSNChief
Member
Minor correction to my original post in #4:
I use Breakfree Powder Blast Gun Cleaner, which is what I was thinking about when I first read the OP. Not the same.
The Powder Blast is an AWESOME aid to cleaning firearms.
I haven't actually used the CLP, which is supposed to Clean, Lubricate, and Protect because I've already cleaned my firearms using Powder Blast as an aid. Seems kind of pointless to me at that point, since all I need to do is lubricate and protect with a few drops of oil.
I still say that for a few bucks it's no loss at all to try it if you want, though.
I use Breakfree Powder Blast Gun Cleaner, which is what I was thinking about when I first read the OP. Not the same.
The Powder Blast is an AWESOME aid to cleaning firearms.
I haven't actually used the CLP, which is supposed to Clean, Lubricate, and Protect because I've already cleaned my firearms using Powder Blast as an aid. Seems kind of pointless to me at that point, since all I need to do is lubricate and protect with a few drops of oil.
I still say that for a few bucks it's no loss at all to try it if you want, though.
dfariswheel
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- 6,653
CLP is good because it can be used as a "Do it all" field cleaner, preservative, and lubricant in one product so you don't have to carry a separate bottle of bore solvent.
CLP Breakfree used to be the official CLP used by the military, but G96 offers a better deal to the government.
But, CLP Breakfree can still be used by military personnel as far as I know.
The "C" part also keeps fouling in the action soft so the moving parts can sweep fouling out of the way and allow a weapon to continue to function longer.
CLP Breakfree is a good product as a lubricant, and is always near the top in rust tests.
You get better/faster results if you use a dedicated bore solvent to clean the bore and parts in the action.
CLP does not remove copper fouling.
So, CLP Breakfree is a very good product and is a favorite for use in the AR-15.
Minus personal opinions, it seems to be as good as any other firearms lubricant.
CLP Breakfree used to be the official CLP used by the military, but G96 offers a better deal to the government.
But, CLP Breakfree can still be used by military personnel as far as I know.
The "C" part also keeps fouling in the action soft so the moving parts can sweep fouling out of the way and allow a weapon to continue to function longer.
CLP Breakfree is a good product as a lubricant, and is always near the top in rust tests.
You get better/faster results if you use a dedicated bore solvent to clean the bore and parts in the action.
CLP does not remove copper fouling.
So, CLP Breakfree is a very good product and is a favorite for use in the AR-15.
Minus personal opinions, it seems to be as good as any other firearms lubricant.
DM~
Member
I have nothing but good things to say about CLP, i use it on all of my guns.
I've been using it for many many years in desert, to waaaaaay below zero conditions, and i see no reason to change...
DM
I've been using it for many many years in desert, to waaaaaay below zero conditions, and i see no reason to change...
DM
I have been running (and still am) a test of several popular lubricant/protectants on bare steel to see which one offers better rust protection. So far, and this is 4 months in, the Safariland branded CLP is doing better than Eezox, and Eezox has recently been my go-to when I want to store a rifle. The RIG Gun Grease I had been using till a few years ago rusted in the first three days, as did the NRA Tw-25 and Rem-oil. I applied all of them liberally to an area and then wiped most of the excess off.
The steel has been exposed to heat/cold/damp/wet/light/dark etc in the course of the test. The CLP area is still pristine, and the Eezox has a few tiny spots of rust. The other 3 areas are crusted up with layers of rust.
I was happy to find that the CLP works better than Eezox since the Eezox stinks so bad when using.
The steel has been exposed to heat/cold/damp/wet/light/dark etc in the course of the test. The CLP area is still pristine, and the Eezox has a few tiny spots of rust. The other 3 areas are crusted up with layers of rust.
I was happy to find that the CLP works better than Eezox since the Eezox stinks so bad when using.
I bought a gallon of it years ago. That's when I thought much more highly of it than I do now. I have found that I can put it on a gun and store it in the safe for a few months, pull it out and the CLP has basically all but disappeared. Perhaps it leaves an "invisible film", but if I can't SEE the lubrication on my semiautos then in my book it's not lubricated. I now use Mobil 1 for lube and WD40 for cleaning unless I'm dealing with barrel fouling. If you use CLP---"shake well before use."
See this link which claims that CLP and Mobil-1 have a common base.
http://www.thehighroad.org/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=9176022
I also use WD40 for cleaning. (Went looking for Ballistol, but not available in this area, except via internet.)
http://www.thehighroad.org/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=9176022
I also use WD40 for cleaning. (Went looking for Ballistol, but not available in this area, except via internet.)
RetiredUSNChief
Member
I don't know about the "common base" with Mobil-1. Yes, CLP uses synthetic oils...in fact, they have "a unique combination of synthetic oils", along with their other ingredients (proprietary, of course).
However, that doesn't mean that CLP and Mobil-1 have anything more in common than the words "synthetic oil(s)". There are LOTS of synthetic oils out there.
Mobil-1 also has their own proprietary ingredients, which have to do with maintaining proper lubrication, cleanliness, pH, and particulate suspension (among other things) under the hot and dirty operating conditions of internal combustion engines.
As far as a common base I have no idea. I'm a simple knuckledragger who just goes by visible results. I found that the mobil 1 would still be there where I could see it when I took my guns out of the safe after long storage. The CLP-not so much. Mostly evaporated and I always felt I needed to re-lube before use.
I use mobil 1 liberally on my AR bolts and clean after a shooting session with WD40. The carbon pretty much just wipes away. Since the oil is formulated to keep internal combustion engines clean, it works very well in the AR system. The ARs have a piston, rings, and a cylinder-pretty much the same thing.
After success with the ARs, I pretty much use the mobil 1 for all my gun lube needs. YMMV
Vodoun da Vinci
Member
Been using it for years as a cleaner and lube. I think it's wonderful. As a preservative I have a short story.
Used to make knives and swords until the market died as the economy crashed in late 2007. I was doing it full time and selling lots of blades so I have 12 or 15 in process at a time. I stopped making new blades and took all the hand ground and polished blades I had on hand, cleaned them and lubed with Break Free CLP, and hung them on the wall in the basement shop.
Basements are damp - I'm in the Midwest and Summers are humid. Those blades have hung on the wall untouched since the Summer of 2007 and have not one speck of rust or even discoloration. Usually a ground and clean blade will rust in a matter of hours...certainly in a matter of months.
All of these blades look like the day they were hung up on the wall. This stuff is awesome as a firearm preservative and all my new guns get stripped, cleaned and lubed with it right off the bat.
VooDoo
Used to make knives and swords until the market died as the economy crashed in late 2007. I was doing it full time and selling lots of blades so I have 12 or 15 in process at a time. I stopped making new blades and took all the hand ground and polished blades I had on hand, cleaned them and lubed with Break Free CLP, and hung them on the wall in the basement shop.
Basements are damp - I'm in the Midwest and Summers are humid. Those blades have hung on the wall untouched since the Summer of 2007 and have not one speck of rust or even discoloration. Usually a ground and clean blade will rust in a matter of hours...certainly in a matter of months.
All of these blades look like the day they were hung up on the wall. This stuff is awesome as a firearm preservative and all my new guns get stripped, cleaned and lubed with it right off the bat.
VooDoo
Kernel
Member
I'll buy a 16oz bottle of CLP and use that to fill little 1oz squeeze bottles that I keep all around for cleaning, lubing, and long term storage. I like to mix my CLP 80/20 with other heavier oils like: Mobil-1 gear oil, Ballistol, or a lanoline based product I really like called Fluid Film.
I even tried Mobil-1 synth transsmision fluid, once. It worked really good. But, man did it stink!
Still have a full quart, minus one ounce.
I even tried Mobil-1 synth transsmision fluid, once. It worked really good. But, man did it stink!
Still have a full quart, minus one ounce.
LAGS
Member
@ Kernel
Be carefull of using Transmission Fluid.
Some contain Rust inhibitors that will remove or dull your Bluing.
Especially the old Ford Type "F"
But I have never done much research on the newer Synthetics, and they may not contain much of a rust inhibitor since most newer transmissions use less steel in them and more alloys like Aluminum.
But transmission fluid makes good Honing oil for knife sharpening, and a great Quenching Oil for making Springs.
Be carefull of using Transmission Fluid.
Some contain Rust inhibitors that will remove or dull your Bluing.
Especially the old Ford Type "F"
But I have never done much research on the newer Synthetics, and they may not contain much of a rust inhibitor since most newer transmissions use less steel in them and more alloys like Aluminum.
But transmission fluid makes good Honing oil for knife sharpening, and a great Quenching Oil for making Springs.
nyresq
Member
Breakfree is one of those things that does a bunch of stuff (cleans, lubricate, protect) and does a decent job, but its not great at anything. I used it for a couple years and found if I use cleaners for cleaning and lube for lube, I get a much better operating firearm.
And Breakfree will seperate over time. The teflon particles will seperate and fall out of solution. If you use Breakfree, make sure to shake it very well before you apply. You will notice a white/greish substance in the bottom of old bottles, this is the teflon that has settled...
There are better options for gun care. I use Mobil 1 for oil, lubriplate for rails, and both foaming bore cleaner and hoppe 9 for cleaning. A quart of Mobil 1 will last 20 years, a tube of lubriplate will last almost as long, the quart size Hoppes is half empty after 3 years and the large size of the foaming cleaner has lasted me two years and counting...
Its in stock everywhere because there are better things to use on guns. I have a spray bottle I use on garden equipment, but thats all...
And Breakfree will seperate over time. The teflon particles will seperate and fall out of solution. If you use Breakfree, make sure to shake it very well before you apply. You will notice a white/greish substance in the bottom of old bottles, this is the teflon that has settled...
There are better options for gun care. I use Mobil 1 for oil, lubriplate for rails, and both foaming bore cleaner and hoppe 9 for cleaning. A quart of Mobil 1 will last 20 years, a tube of lubriplate will last almost as long, the quart size Hoppes is half empty after 3 years and the large size of the foaming cleaner has lasted me two years and counting...
Its in stock everywhere because there are better things to use on guns. I have a spray bottle I use on garden equipment, but thats all...
Comrade Mike
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- Apr 16, 2013
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- 997
CLP is a jack of all trades master of none sort of deal.
CleanDean
Member
Iagree with you, "Comrad Mike"
The original was better ,and it had a different fragrance, (kind of like bandaid & medical adhesive tape odor.)
New stuff smells differeent now.
The original was better ,and it had a different fragrance, (kind of like bandaid & medical adhesive tape odor.)
New stuff smells differeent now.
dfariswheel
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- Dec 26, 2002
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- 6,653
And Breakfree will seperate over time. The teflon particles will seperate and fall out of solution. If you use Breakfree, make sure to shake it very well before you apply. You will notice a white/greish substance in the bottom of old bottles, this is the teflon that has settled
The OLD Breakfree settled. The Teflon was in the form of microscopic balls and would settle to the bottom.
Since then CLP Breakfree has changed formula several times, and they no longer use Teflon in that form.
The new CLP doesn't settle and you can't see the Teflon in it's current formulation.
You still need to shake it to mix the "Cleaner" part of the mix.
The OLD Breakfree settled. The Teflon was in the form of microscopic balls and would settle to the bottom.
Since then CLP Breakfree has changed formula several times, and they no longer use Teflon in that form.
The new CLP doesn't settle and you can't see the Teflon in it's current formulation.
You still need to shake it to mix the "Cleaner" part of the mix.
DanTheFarmer
Member
One advantage of Breakfree CLP that hasn't been mentioned is that is safe to use on nickel plated parts. I have a two tone pistol. The slide is nickle plated so it always and only is cleaned by Breakfree. It works just fine.
Many bore cleaners (Hoppes #9 and many, many others) contain ammonia and can potentially damage nickel plating.
Dan
Many bore cleaners (Hoppes #9 and many, many others) contain ammonia and can potentially damage nickel plating.
Dan
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