Brownells Hammer/Sear pin block???
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A fixture only works if the hole location(s) in the frame is exactly the same as the fixture - which these days may not be the case. I prefer to use use oversized pins for the hammer and sear, (available from Brownells) and insert them through the respective parts and then into the frame on the frame's right side. However I seldom go to so much trouble because I'm not interested in a trigger pull that's so light that this sort of thing is necessary.
Note: if you do use oversized pins you may (or may not) have to ream the holes in the frame too - reamers for this purpose are also available from Brownells.
But you are right in that this, and/or some other similar set-up will allow you to see the hooks/sear angles in real life.
Note: if you do use oversized pins you may (or may not) have to ream the holes in the frame too - reamers for this purpose are also available from Brownells.
But you are right in that this, and/or some other similar set-up will allow you to see the hooks/sear angles in real life.
The Sear block kit you are speaking of is adjustable to the pin holes in the receiver to overcome the tolerance problems. This way you can set it for the particular receiver you are working on. It's not a bad tool, I've used one, but a bit pricey and not really necessary if you have the check pins.
I'm not sure about what pins Fuff is talking about. I have pins that are long to check the hammer/sear relationship on the particlular receiver and I have seen over size pins for worn out holes in receivers, but have never seen the two in conjunction. I'd like to see that part number, although I don't think I would ever care to do a trigger job on an old worn out receiver.
I'm not sure about what pins Fuff is talking about. I have pins that are long to check the hammer/sear relationship on the particlular receiver and I have seen over size pins for worn out holes in receivers, but have never seen the two in conjunction. I'd like to see that part number, although I don't think I would ever care to do a trigger job on an old worn out receiver.
I don't remember ever seeing a 1911 frame with "worn" hammer and/or sear pin holes. If the holes and pins are to print you get anything from a tight to loose slip fit, depending on how the tolerances stack up. This is quite proper for a service pistol where parts themselves become tools in the field to facilitate detail disassembly. It should be remembered however that the stated USGI trigger pull for service pistols is 6 pounds (which is far too heavy for some of today’s more wimpy shooters). 
Pistolsmiths that specialize in trigger pulls at or under 4 pounds (and 3 ½ pounds or less in particular), sometimes use oversized sear and hammer pins, and ream the frame holes (and sometimes) those in the sear and hammer to get a more precise fit, and eliminate any wobble that might effect consistent and uniform engagement between the hammer hooks and sear faces. If someone suggested that this was overkill I would agree – unless the most precise work was demanded – and to be blunt, bullseye target shooters tend to be very fussy about such things. I know because I was one for a long time.
These should not be confused with extra long pins that allow one to place a hammer and sear on a frame for the purpose of inspecting the respective engagement angles. I would submit that there is no more exact fixture relative to a particular frame’s hole positions then that frame itself, adjustments on a separate fixture not withstanding.
The pins I referred to are Brownells #583-101-000 and come in matched sets – two pins, one for the hammer, and one for the sear.
Pistolsmiths that specialize in trigger pulls at or under 4 pounds (and 3 ½ pounds or less in particular), sometimes use oversized sear and hammer pins, and ream the frame holes (and sometimes) those in the sear and hammer to get a more precise fit, and eliminate any wobble that might effect consistent and uniform engagement between the hammer hooks and sear faces. If someone suggested that this was overkill I would agree – unless the most precise work was demanded – and to be blunt, bullseye target shooters tend to be very fussy about such things. I know because I was one for a long time.
These should not be confused with extra long pins that allow one to place a hammer and sear on a frame for the purpose of inspecting the respective engagement angles. I would submit that there is no more exact fixture relative to a particular frame’s hole positions then that frame itself, adjustments on a separate fixture not withstanding.
The pins I referred to are Brownells #583-101-000 and come in matched sets – two pins, one for the hammer, and one for the sear.
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