Bugging out on Bike

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GigaBuist

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Somewhere in here in the past few weeks I mentioned I was going to do an experiment of sorts.. so here's the results.

The goal was to "Bug Out" on a bike, a mountain bike. I run with a rather adventerous bunch, and just a few weeks before Katrina somebody got the idea to go on a long bike trip. As none of are cyclists, I was skeptical, but in the aftermath of Katrina I figured I'd give it a go and see what could be done.

The goal was a 120 mile bike trip in 2 days over bike trails. My goal was 120 miles over bike trails carrying everything I'd need to survive such a trip.

I'll spare you the climatic details up front: I didn't make it. I bailed at 85 miles and called for a ride. I'll explain how that happend.

I nabbed a MOLLE pack off the 'net in the week before the trip, as well as an 11 oz Katydyn backpack water filter. I figured the ALICE pack would be a bad idea, and I think I might be right there -- the MOLLE gave me the ability to stow up to 2 liters of water bottles on handy side pockets as well as a 50 oz Camel Bak in the lower back compartment very nicely. I couldn't have done that with the ALICE.

I loaded up, conservatively, with what I figured the bare essentials would be. About 3 days worth the MREs assuming 2 meals per day, tossing in a few extra goodies from other stuff that I had partially consumed in the week leading up to this, giving me a surplus of high carb, high calorie MRE snack food. On top of that I took an army surplus poncho, about 50 foot of parachord, a 50 piece 1st Aid kit, good compass, 4 light sticks, 3 pairs of socks, 2 pairs of boxers, and 2 extra t-shirts. A good sturdy folding CRKT knife is always with me, so that went, as well as a sharpening stone in the pack. Had a good camping lighter too.

All told I had about a 40 pound pack. I weigh 140 pounds -- not exactly optimal, but I was optimistic.

Now, if you'll notice the one piece of gear I didn't talk about yet was my bike. That was a problem -- I didn't give any thought to it. I picked up a very simple Huffy mountain bike from a local sports shop that was having a clearance sale for $100. The MOLLE pack and Katadyn filter cost as much as the bike did.

Bad idea.

About 22 miles into the trip I was lagging horribly behind the other guys I was with. They figured it was because of my overzealous packing, so another guy took my pack. I was still falling behind. We switched bikes then. At that point I could keep up, but I was fatigued from the 22 miles on the old bike. We rode for 8 miles that way and the other guy confirmed what was pretty obvious: That cheap Huffy was about 2 times harder to push than his bike.

Lesson learned: If you wanna bug out on a bike get a good bike!

So, 30 miles into the trip we switched back. I got back on my own bike with my pack and waved good bye to the group. I'll see you in 25 miles! Yes, they left me behind, but we weren't ever more than 10 miles from a real town, and I -was- fitted out for survival, so there wasn't much to worry about.

I finally got into town an hour after them. Exhausted as could be, mind you, what with pushing 55 miles on trails (sometimes very soft and covered in horse pooh) on a cheap bike. But -- I made it. Took 10 hours, but I made it. Considering my Bug Out On Bike scenario in real life would mean a 40 mile trip I figured I had met my real world goals.

We got a hotel (nobody else was down with the idea of hauling a sleeping bag and tent with them) that night and the next morning I went to Wal Mart to pick up a better bike. I found one, about 100% better, and it made the return trip easier, but I was still exhausted from the previous day, so I canned it about 30 miles from home.

It was a good learning experience... one being that the amount of gear I had on me only really came into play when doing an incline. Major differences there -- but if you can just step off the bike and walk the incline you're going to conserve energy.

Another one was that given my body make-up (skinny guy that doesn't burn up reserves) needs to suck down calories constantly. Not an issue for most people, but I reminded myself that it is for me. When I'm hauling around 3 days worth the food on my back I -must- eat constantly or suffer performance problems. There's a trade off there.

Primary lesson: if you wanna bug out on a bike you need a GOOD BIKE! I hadn't biked in so long I forgot how much difference they made. Stupid, stupid mistake, but I made it. Live and learn, eh?
 
Good ideas there. It might be wise to check with some experienced folks what what a good bike for that kind of work would be. I could give some advice but I might be overzealous in my estimation (my mountain bikes costs about $2000-3000, give or take)

I'd also suggest doing a bit more training. You made a huge accomplishment but it will be MUCH easier with a bit of practice. You'll also need to learn how to take care of the bike in the case of a mechanical emergency (which is infinitely more likely on a cheap bike).
 
Okay, I'll ask the obvious - why not a motorcycle? a couple grand buys a more than capable bike that runs over 100 miles per tank and can run on dirt or road.
 
My mountain bike isn't for bugging out althought it would certainly work for that task. Its for mountain biking. Biking for both fun and pleasure. Motorcycles don't provide nearly the amount of exercise that a mountain bike does.
 
For just a couple hundred bucks, one can usually score a decent mountain bike that weigh half as much as a huffy with a smoother and more efficient drivetrain.
 
FWIW, I used to be really into cycling.

If you're planning to try this again, the most important components on a bike IMO are the rims and tires. You want aluminum, not steel rims, for two reasons:

1. Steel rims + water = no brakes. You can still brake with AL rims if they get wet.

2. AL rims are a lot lighter. The rule of thumb is that 1 unit of weight in your wheels is roughly equivalent to twice that on the frame. E.g., 1 oz. on the wheel is equal to 2 oz. on the frame, when it comes to energy expenditure.

You want high quality tires to maximize traction and puncture resistance and reduce rolling resistance.

Also look into getting a rack over the rear wheel and panniers. Loading stuff there instead of in a pack on your back lowers your center of gravity, increasing stability. You also don't need to suppor the weight directly on your back, reducing fatigue.
 
Lesson learned: If you wanna bug out on a bike get a good bike!
Click to expand...

Absolutely. Some corners can be cut, but the wheels and drive train need to be decent quality.

the next morning I went to Wal Mart to pick up a better bike.
Click to expand...

Ummmm. Walmart bikes may, depending on what you find, be a step up from a steel wheeled $100 Huffy, but might I suggest finding a bike shop?
 
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Some good guidelines for buying a mountain bike:

Set your budget then plan to exceed it. Ok now that that's out of the way...

A good mountain bike will set you back at least $450 new. This is not a race worthy, ultra-light, super duper geewiz bike. Just a basic steel or aluminum frame with decent (mostly durable) components and a basic front shock. The bikes you buy today for around $500 would have been worth twice that in the early 90's.

If you or someone you know has some experience and can seperate junk from a good deal, Ebay can be your friend.

The issue with wheels... Aluminum rims are important not only for their wet weather stopping performance, but also because they decrease the weight of the wheel. Rotational weight is your enemy when cycling. The more weight you have to move up to speed, the harder the whole trip becomes. This isn't as big an issue on the road because once you get up to speed, the weight helps you hold your speed, however off road you are contantly going up and down and slowing and speeding. You constantly have to work to keep those wheels turning. When you spend lots of $$$ for a bike, you are buying strength in a light weight package.

Carrying gear...

Get it off of you. A basic camelbak is about all you want on you when riding. Much of mountain biking comes down to your bike handling skills. If your center of gravity is high, or you are anchored to the seat by the weight of your pack, you are going to be wasting lots of energy. Packs on a rack, or better yet, a BOB trailer are ideal for hauling gear on a bike. (BOB trailers have one wheel at the rear and fasten to your bike with a flexible hitch. They can carry lots of weight and track the wheel path of your bike)

Clothing...
Wear less than you think you'll need. If you are warm when you begin, you'll be miserable in 1 mile. Riding off road is work and you build up heat fast. Biking short will save you--if you're not into the spandex look they make baggy shorts now. Wear a base layer that wicks moisture.

If you are truely bugging out, learn to work on your bike. They are simple machines. In many ways they are simpler to work on than our firearms. A little tlc goes far. At the least, learn to fix a flat, true your wheels, adjust your derailures, replace brake and shift cables, and how to tune your suspension.

If I needed to go out and buy a bike for fun and possible emergency evac--fun has to be first because of the investment and the need to ride to build up the endurance to effectively haul your evac gear--I'd look at brands like Giant (one of the value leaders), Trek, and Specialized. There are others that are great as well. I'd be looking for a simple bike with fron suspension and disc brakes. Why disc's? Because they work in the rain and mud, they require less maintanence to keep running (although when they need work it is not quick) and they don't care if your rims are straight to stop you. This means you can have a bent rim and continue to ride and stop effectively. I would stay away from rear suspension for a bug out ride unless I was going to haul a trailer or really understood how to adjust the rear shock.
Anytime you load an additional weight on the rear shock, you have to adjust it to work for that weight. If you are hauling a trailer, this issue goes away.

Firearms:

This is an application where the shoulder holster shines. Forget having easy access to your long arms. If you are going to use a hip holster, test your postion on the bike with your holster position. Usually there is some adjustment to be made.

Huffys...Let's just not go there. Buy your bike from a bike shop unless you feel confident enough to buy used and know what to look for.

These are just some things I learned over the years of wrenching my way through school in bike shops and spending way too much money on my ride.

--usp_fan

Next
 
Did I read this right and you had a backpack with your stuff in it? You should look into a BOB Ibex trailer with some front panniers. A handlebar bag is nice too. BOB makes two trailers, Yak (no shock) and Ibex (shock). I've had both, the Ibex is much better for riding trails, you won't get the bounce you do with the Yak. Either trailer will carry 70 lbs, they're both single wheel and track so well you won't even know it's there. The come with a big dry sack to pack stuff you don't want to get wet and you can easily bungy other stuff on top. You can see/read about them here.

I ride about 100 miles per week, errands, shopping around town make up almost all of this riding. You need to ride a bit before attempting something like this and flush the backpack while on a bike.
 
The BoB trailers are great, but unless one is a dedicated cycling enthusiast its alot of investment. FYI many of the kiddie trailers will hold 100lbs and can often be found at yard sales for under $100. Unless the riding involves more difficult trails, then the BoB with its inline design is more ideal.
Of course, given the price of gas, a decent bike and a trailer might be a really good investment for anyone to consider right now, for running errands and even commuting to work.
 
I've got an older Burley trailer, had it for about 17 years. They're very good but the issues I have with them are tracking, width and they're useless on single track trails. They do hold a lot, I don't recall what the weight limit is but I've had two kids in mine with a load of groceries. Look around at garage sales, they're all over the place for not much money. BOB trailers are available for less than retail ($250 to $300) - I just took a quick look at Ebay and someone has one that is currently at $130. One thing to note with BOB trailers is they might not work on bikes equiped with disc brakes.

When I watched the "evacuation" from Rita and saw all those cars on the roads moving at 3 MPH, I knew I could do better on my bike with a loaded trailer. My concern would be someone jumping out of their useless car and "bike jacking" my bike.
 
I really would choose a motorcycle over a bicycle for bugging out. Granted, the bicycle doesn't require gasoline, but it also doesn't get nearly as far as quickly.

The KLR650 mentioned above is an excellent machine for long trips. The 650 single thumps right along just as it has for the past 15+ years and sips fuel. They sport something like a 6 gallon tank as well. Plenty to get you 200 miles.
Recently there have been a few competitors such as the Suzuki DR650SE or Hondas XR650L. You can get smaller machines, but the 650's do very well on the highway without sacrificing too much off road prowess to weight.

The Kawi offers some factory accesories such as a higher windscreen, saddlebags and a top case that can be had for less than $300. Add a way to carry an extra gas can and you can extend your range. The nice thing is they will run on the cheapest nastiest gas around. So, should you find an abandoned car thats been sitting for a while, never fear, the stuff in the tank is probably fine to power your scoot.
 
The evacuation in Houston proved that getting out of a major metropolis by car is a risky proposition. Anyone of us could do better than 5mph average on a bicycle. I race recreationally, and could probably do about 15mph with a fully loaded mountain bike and trailer.
 
Any word on the "Hummer" bike? Aside from the silly branding link, it folds up and there may be a military version. I'd like something I can keep in the car.
 
If you are committed to a bike, I would suggest you stay away from the evacuation routes. Those people were frustrated and driving all over the place; road, shoulders, ditches, opposte lanes. There was no safe place for a bicycle. I can't say the back roads were much safer as that was where I was. Better than the interstates though. You need to plan your route every bit as much as motorists.

I thought I heard a bumper sticker quote once: If Huffy Made Airplanes, Would You Fly in One?

Maybe it was another brand.
 
i loike the bike idea , but obviously i am laugihng my head off you tried it on a HUFFY ?!?!?! ack.

FULL ON= there's a guy around here with a BMW enduro style motorcycle-
with a BICYCLE racK!!! now that will get you out there!
 
I've owned two H1 Hummers ('98 and '02) - I hope the Hummer bike is more reliable than they were.
 
I agree that a basic decent bike starts @ $450. Get one with an aluminum
frame. If you're made of money, there's carbon fiber. Get a comfortable
bike helmet. You don't need the fancy clothes and shoes. BDU shorts
and a t-shirt work just fine. The bike helmet is a no-compromise item.

Stick with a hardtail, non-folding bike and you'll get better components
and frame for your money. Just remember there's no such thing as a bike
that's too light because otherwise you waste the energy on the bike rather
than moving you.

You can easily carry a pistol in a chest holster and carry a SMALL pack
on your back. Try to keep things in the middle for a better center of
balance. You can easily mount a small rifle along your frame (this is
where the M4gery and M1 Carbine will find a spot above many other
rifles). You will not be carrying 20 mags with you.....

Even an out of shape ho-hum bicycle rider should be able to do 20-40 miles
in a day. When you're in shape, 30-40 in a single morning is no problem.
However, keep in mind you will burn a lot of calories by the end of the
day. There are plenty of cyclists who do 80+ miles/day, camp at night
and do the same thing the next day --on ROADS, not mountain bike trails.
You have to keep terrain and surface type in mind when it comes to the
distance. I've done 40+ miles in one area without a problem and then
7 somewhere else that wiped me out.

Take a bicycle repair kit with you including a couple of tubes. These will
easily fit in a pouch that attaches under the seat. A small pump will
fit on the frame. Ditch 'extra' ammo in favor of this equipment or you will
find yourself walking.

A mountain bike will go places that motorcycles can't. It's quiet. If water
is too deep for you to ride through, you can wade through with it to the
other side and it will still work. The motorcycle will still be waiting on the
the side it came to.

BTW, you're not a real hardcore mountain bike rider until you break
something on yourself. Become familiar with your bike and the route you
plan to take before SHTF. A broken rib or colar bone and no doctor is
not a good way to start the next millennial transition.

I'm sure I forgot a bunch of stuff, but other ppl will continue to add to this.
 
As I was watching the Houston evacuation I was thinking the same thing about bugging out on a motorcycle. I have a BMW 650 dual sport with a GPS mounted on it that contains all of the way back dirt roads in Texas. I also get about 65 mpg and can easily go 200 miles between fillups. Sitting in traffic for 20+ hours would have driven me bonkers. I ride a lot of backwoods roads around here and rarely see a soul so I'm sure it would have been the same thing since these roads aren't on your normal map.

Now the only problem with bugging on the bike is that I also have a wife and two kids. I guess I could put my wife on the back and a kid in each pannier...
 
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