Buying a safe

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Walkalong said:
All right, round up, but please give us an answer of which ones you like and why? That should be easy enough. Which ones and why. I'll even narrow it down. Lets say between 2K & 3K as well as between 3K & 4K. :)



LOL. I liked that one. :D
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Maybe this is the question the other guy was talking about me not answering. You need to make up your mind what's important to you. Cosmetics will play into the pricing to a certain degree, then will come wading through the fire claims.

If I were recommending a heavy built, high fire rated, no frills safe, I would go with a Fort Knox Defender Series and upgrade it to whatever level I felt my situation called for. Seems I did this already, but maybe it was on another thread.

D7241, 72 x 41 x 27, 1286 LBS base price $2,815.00
Deluxe Package steel upgrade (10GA body to 3/16", 1/4" plate in door to 3/8") $300.00
Reinforced Steel Inner Liner (10GA steel) $300.00

With the deluxe package addition, weight would be approx 1475
With the deluxe package & inner liner, weight would be approx 1760

Another safe in the higher end of 72 x 40 would be the Champion Crown Series C-50

72 x 44 x 27, 1475 LBS, $3,100.00

Sorry, none of my pricing ends in .99.:D
 
Academy has the stack-on gun safe for $300 with a 3 bar lock and a combo dial. It regularly goes on sale for $199. I have one and it works wonderfully. It weighs 175lbs so i bolted it to the wall and foundation. It isn't going anywhere.
 
Extremely Pro Gun said:
Academy has the stack-on gun safe for $300 with a 3 bar lock and a combo dial. It regularly goes on sale for $199. I have one and it works wonderfully. It weighs 175lbs so i bolted it to the wall and foundation. It isn't going anywhere.
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With steel that thin and a locking system that cheap, the "safe" won't be going anywhere, but your guns will be. Sorry man, but that is not a safe, it's a cabinet which allow one stop shopping. Hope you just bought it to keep your kids out.
 
Funny, the mailman just handed me a package from Fort Knox, and they have really gone crazy with steel upgrades. I'm still trying to figure it all out, but you can now go with a full 1/4" body and add up to another 1/2" worth of steel to the inner liner. There is also an option for a 1/2 plate upgrade in the door.

You want heavy? I got your heavy right here. :cool:
 
Safeguy;

My post, #98, was in response to Walkalong's post's #'s 80 & 92. It would seem that your post, #100 presumed that all questions on this thread must be directed to you. Or at least answered by you. Please restrain yourself, it's an open forum.

900F
 
I was looking at Summit safes a while back and was surprised to see a 3/8" solid steel plate/door. The price was far below any of the Liberty safes in the joint. What's up with Summit?
 
CB900F said:
Safeguy;

My post, #98, was in response to Walkalong's post's #'s 80 & 92. It would seem that your post, #100 presumed that all questions on this thread must be directed to you. Or at least answered by you. Please restrain yourself, it's an open forum.

900F
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Thanks for your valuable contributions to this thread, but I think I have things pretty much covered where Walkalong is concerned. :)
 
It's been so long I had to go back and look at my two posts. I have talked to a number of helpful folks lately, as well as reading everything here I could find using "search" and perusing the safe/RSC makers websites. There are so many variables that at first it just gets more confusing, but as more material is read, and more questions asked, it becomes a little more clear.

I got frustrated in a couple of safe threads, and I apologise for that. Frustrated enough to not buy a bigger safe for awhile until I could digest more material. I understand more now that it is hard to answer questions about this subject without narrowing the question down some.

Thanks to all who have answered questions both in the open forum & PM's. AC
 
Walkalong said:
It's been so long I had to go back and look at my two posts. I have talked to a number of helpful folks lately, as well as reading everything here I could find using "search" and perusing the safe/RSC makers websites. There are so many variables that at first it just gets more confusing, but as more material is read, and more questions asked, it becomes a little more clear.

I got frustrated in a couple of safe threads, and I apologise for that. Frustrated enough to not buy a bigger safe for awhile until I could digest more material. I understand more now that it is hard to answer questions about this subject without narrowing the question down some.

Thanks to all who have answered questions both in the open forum & PM's. AC
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So did you make a decision? I'm curious as I am too learning all I can about safes/RSC's. I need to get out and physically look again, but on paper I'm leaning toward the AMSEC BF series. But that's today, who knows what tomorrow will bring. The BF is still just a RSC, so sometimes I think maybe I should just get an inexpensive no name RSC...?
 
The AMSEC, Sturdy, & Ft Knox Defender (no fancy paint) with steel upgrades look good. The Crown series by Champion also looks pretty good. But no, not yet. There are a gajillion choices. One could not possibly compare them all, but just be happy with whatever one chooses. If you buy in state, there are taxes. If you buy from far away, shipping is more.

There are folks here who know 1000% more about safes and RSC's than I do, and they have been very helpful. AC
 
TO quote one of Walkalong's posts from a few pages ago which didn't get a really adequate response in my opinion.. I'm sure there are others out there looking for response to a similar question.

When he says "For $1500" I would say interpret this as meaning UP to $1500 as we all have different budgets. I know myself I am looking for something fitting into that price range ($1000 - $1500) so would appreciate recommendations w/ fire ratings.

"Here are some easy straight forward questions.

Lets say 72 X 36to41 X 25to29 dimensions.

For $1500 what dimension, brand & level of that brand, safe/RSC would you guys recommend & why?

For $2000 what dimension, brand & level of that brand, safe/RSC would you guys recommend & why?

For $2500 what dimension, brand & level of that brand, safe/RSC would you guys recommend & why?

For $3000 what dimension, brand & level of that brand, safe/RSC would you guys recommend & why?

For $3500 what dimension, brand & level of that brand, safe/RSC would you guys recommend & why?

For $4000 what dimension, brand & level of that brand, safe/RSC would you guys recommend & why?

Brand = AMSEC, Ft Knox, Sturdy, Champion, etc, etc.

Level = Titan, Executive, Triumph, Trophy etc, etc.

Don't be afraid to say your favorite safes/RSC's are it, just say why. Some actual steel type & thicknesses would be nice. Are any of the thick doors wrapped in steel OK? (vs a single plate of 1/4" or 1/2" steel) What is the thickness of those steel coverings. Why is one good and the other not?

I haven't seen an actual preference by one of you guys yet, or I may have missed it. Thanks. AC"
 
If it weighs more than 525lbs. empty, rated to hold more than 26 long guns, the door closes up tight with no play whatsoever, the door is comprised of at least 1/4" solid plate steel and doesn't have a canyon of a gap between the door and the opening's jamb, the body is constructed of something thicker than 14ga. steel, it has some form of minimal fire rating, the interior is not a bunch of flimsy pieces of Masonite covered with cheap carpet, carries an adequate lifetime warranty, and costs under 2K after all is said and done...
 
Summit looks like they put plenty of steel in theirs. Wonder what prices are?


525 pounds can be put on a hand truck and wheeled out by almost anyone. Better bolt it down well.
 
The Summit prices that I've seen were lower than any of the comparable Liberties that were in the same room. Yeah, 525 is where I decided to start. I can fasten it to concrete and steel to the point of comfort.

Dual bodied isn't something I'm up to speed on. Now I have homework to do.

Personally, I will accept the minimum fire protection. If it is UL listed @ 30minutes, I'm fine with that. It would take one heck of a fire to cook up all the guns in a 30min fire safe. I've sort of been convinced of the rarity of those types of fires, and the quickness of FD to mitigate it. Also, I don't have any rare/heirloom/collector type guns that can't be replaced with insurance money. It just depends on the contents that we each have to protect I guess. Minimum fire rating, but plenty of heft and hardness is what I'm looking for.
 
Here are some easy straight forward questions.
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The question isn't as straight forward as it sounds, especially when you throw in dimensions as a variable.

For example, I sell new safes about the size of a nightstand that sell in the $1,000 range. I also can get you a safe of similar size for $150,000. I could sell you a safe twice that size for $1,500, or $9,000, or $50,000.

When shopping for a safe, your best bet is to speak with a local professional. They are familiar with the risks of your area, and should be able to suggest something suitable for your specific needs. You have to seek these guys out. Not all safe guys are safe guys.

Will you pay more? Yes. The guidance and service you get will be worth the premium.

Personally, I will accept the minimum fire protection. If it is UL listed @ 30minutes, I'm fine with that. It would take one heck of a fire to cook up all the guns in a 30min fire safe. I've sort of been convinced of the rarity of those types of fires, and the quickness of FD to mitigate it.
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The only problem with this is that you will not find a gun safe with any sort of UL fire rating. From my experience, most gun safes will do a poor job protecting its contents in a fire. I have never seen a gun safe out of an actual fire that looked like the photos the manufacturers use in their literature to show you how great they are. I have seen many, so my observation is pretty sound.

Also, I don't have any rare/heirloom/collector type guns that can't be replaced with insurance money. It just depends on the contents that we each have to protect I guess. Minimum fire rating, but plenty of heft and hardness is what I'm looking for.
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That's exactly what it comes down to, and why you should seek (and pay) for the proper expert opinion. Lots of safe salesmen have opinions, but very few of them have any experience to back it up.
 
A1abdj,I dont have any over optimistic hopes that most gun safes would be great in a fire.
But every now and again you will see a makers advertisement that this or that model they build with stood a fire.
The one that comes closet to mind is the Liberty Lincoln that with stood one of those massive California fire storms.
On their catalogue they show a Locksmith drilling the burned hull of the safe with literally everything in eye sight completely devasted.
Then they show the inside and everything is pretty much fine.
Do you think it's possible that this Lincoln truely held up that well?
Perhaps it was very good luck,I certainly dont know.
Generally in the past when I saw one of these makers touting this the safe they show still has pretty good paint left on it which means it was somewhat away from the true fire and was rescued because the fire department got there in time.
But that Liberty they show looks pretty cooked and complete with the owners testimony.
 
...you will not find a gun safe with any sort of UL fire rating.
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That's good to know. I have more homework now.

Believe me when I say that I am doing all the research possible. Just because I'm posting a few comments on the internet doesn't mean I'm not seeking out the information thoroughly. In fact, I've emailed you a couple times over the last month or so about the safes on your website. As I've been gaining knowledge, I've been fine tuning the minimum quality level of my requirements. Fire rating is not something that I'm highly concerned with. I do want a modicum of protection, but not much more is required for me. I figure that if I end up buying a Sturdy, Amsec, Zykan, or maybe a Summit, whatever fire protection comes with the safe I decide on, I'll be satisfied.

Thanks for the info.
 
The one that comes closet to mind is the Liberty Lincoln that with stood one of those massive California fire storms.
On their catalogue they show a Locksmith drilling the burned hull of the safe with literally everything in eye sight completely devasted.
Then they show the inside and everything is pretty much fine.
Do you think it's possible that this Lincoln truely held up that well?
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It is possible, but rare and unlikely. I have several photos from safes involved in wildfires. These type of fires tend to burn hot and for extended periods of time. There's not much that survives them, including safes.

This is where the other factors such as safe placement can make a big difference. If the safe was in the corner of the basement upwind of the fire, then it would stand a better chance of surviving. So if in fact the photos are accurate, then the success probably had more to do with the other factors than the safe itself.

Safe manufacturers like to do some interesting things in their catalogs. Speaking of Liberty, they used to (don't know if the still do) show two safes side by side. Both safes are alleged to have come "straight out of the oven", and are open to show you their interiors. The Liberty has some heat damage, but is somewhat intact. The "competitor" has flames shooting out of the interior.

On its surface, the Liberty appears to be the better safe. But if you look closer, you will see the truth. The Liberty safe has heat damage. The inside of the door edge is clearly visible. This is where all of the stickers are located. On the Liberty the stickers are long gone, and the paint appears to be melted off. If you look at the competitor's safe, you will notice that the paint is not only intact, but so are the mylar stickers.

Either the competitor's safe stayed much cooler during the test, or somebody just engineered a photo op. Either way, it's quite dishonest.

Believe me when I say that I am doing all the research possible. Just because I'm posting a few comments on the internet doesn't mean I'm not seeking out the information thoroughly.
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It is amazing how complex a simple steel box can be. I think that you find the more research you do, the more confusing it becomes.

In the end, it's still better to make a confusing decision based on as much information that you can get.
 
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