Cap n Ball no Lube at all

[arcticap]

With a Remmy it's easy to swab the bore if really needed.
Just remove the cylinder and push a wet patch all of the way through the bore a few times with a dowel or pistol rod which takes about a minute.

 

[Russell13]

On my Remington I’ve noticed the cylinder pin fouls up really bad. I put this stuff on the pin and it keeps the fouling lose and easy to clean off. I just wipe it off with a patch and push a patch trough the hole in the cylinder. I do this every 18-24 shots. I also run a patch with moose milk down the barrel and try to swan out the cylinders as best I can. Keeps the gun running and makes cleaning when I get home a lot easier

 

[Pistolero_Libre]

If shooting target loads, I mean true target loads, drop the powder charge considerably, down to something like 15-20gr FFFg Goex or similar. Add corn meal on top of the powder in sufficient quantity to get the ball seating just sub-flush with the face of the cylinder. Use a spatula or putty knife device to smear lube across the face of the chamber. With this method you will get good paper-punching accuracy and will be able to shoot a half dozen cylinders without things getting too gummy. This works in both my original and Pedersoli 1858 revolvers.

 

[Darto]

Loading 30 grains of American Pioneer Powder 3F, I only lube the cylinder pin after every 3 or 4 cylinders.

APP is the easiest replica black to clean up the gun after shooting in my opinion. But f.p.s. are less than Pyrodex or real black.

 

[walterelm]

I use Explosia, it is czech black powder ... it cost less than 1/4 of suiss powder ....

 

[walterelm]

Ok ... several cylinders ... no lube on top of the ball ... no grease cookie ... just shoots fine ... 14 .. 23 grains blackpowder and cornfiller

But: cylinder stops turning after a while, the dirt between pin and cylinder gets too sticks

Nothing on pin: stops turning after 3 cylinder
Grease on pin: perfect for 3 cylinders; gets stuck on 4th cylinder

Cleaning pin after each cylinder: works but no fun ...

 

[TheOutlawKid]

As for me i use two different formulas for arbor/base pin lube. I make a custom mix of mobil 1 synthetic grease mixed with raw shea butter (a natural lube, a hard oil that melts at low heat) and lanolin. It keeps everything slick...and the more i shoot and heat the gun up the more the shea butter melts and turns to a slick oil which in part is like adding olive oil or balistol to the arbor while shooting...keeps everything moving. My second formula is lanolin and canola/olive oil. I make a thick oil out of this and it works just as well as my first formula only i need to reapply more often if shooting a long session. These arbor lubes along with my thin lube discs keeps everything running very smooth and can keep going just about all session.

 

[TheOutlawKid]

I use Explosia, it is czech black powder ... it cost less than 1/4 of suiss powder ....

Ive never heard of this powder. Have you ever chrono'd for speed tests? Is it dirtier? Do you know what charcoal they use? Hows the quality of the grains? Swiss has great grain quality and consistency although i shoot 3f old Eynseford if i buy it or my homemade stuff which i shoot more often.

 

[arcticap]

Ive never heard of this powder. Have you ever chrono'd for speed tests? Is it dirtier? Do you know what charcoal they use? Hows the quality of the grains? Swiss has great grain quality and consistency although i shoot 3f old Eynseford if i buy it or my homemade stuff which i shoot more often.

About Vesuvit Explosia black powder:

1. https://forums.mlagb.com/showthread.php?tid=446
2. See the last post http://www.airgunbbs.com/showthread.php?711442-Vesuvit-LC/page2&s=673cdd798a54da1c0e169e01366b36e2

hildo posted: "I have used both Explosia (a cheap not very powerfull brand) and the powerfull but expensive Swiss in my shooting sessions. I see not much if any difference's. Recoil on the Swiss powder is noticibly a little higher though." --->>> https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...ll-versus-conicals.281446/page-2#post-3985165

 

[walterelm]

Again ... 48 rounds .... no grease ... but ...

The feeling while seating the bullets changed from ... thats too easy ... to ... wow that feels grindy

I cleaned the arbor pin every time i reloaded ... and on the last three cylinders i started having problems , the cylinder didnt turn while attempting to cock the hammer. I am pretty sure its not a dirt or fouling problem. The remington got just too hot. It was ca 28 Celsius (or 82.4 Fahrenheit) and i shot all six rounds without wasting too much time on aiming. I had difficulties putting the cylinder back into the gun for the last six shots of the day ... the arbor wouldnt slide into the cylinder. I waited a while ... then it did fit and the cyl turned without problems.

After the 48 shots were done i got the cyl again out, didnt clean the arbor and again couldnt reassemble the cyl. I let the gun cool down for 10 min, still the arbor wouldnt slide into the cyl.

Next day, prior to cleaning, no problem while reassembling the cyl, gun would cyxle just as supposed to do.

I conclude: for bulls eye competition (thats 20 rounds) i dont need any lube in the chambers.

But i have to clean the arbor pin all the time. Lubing once wont help.

Oh ... that was 20 grains of BP and a 9mm case full of wheat xream as filler ....