Nope. After you pull the trigger slightly, and the hand initiates cylinder rotation, and you release the trigger, the hand retreats to its inward position and is not even close to the cylinder star. The only thing contacting the cylinder is the bolt, which snaps into the next available locking notch as you continue cylinder rotation by hand.
If it were
me, as a S&W revolver owner and shooter, and a S&W armorer, I'd not do this sort of partial manual manipulation of the trigger, hand & cylinder to any of my S&W revolvers. FWIW, that's not something taught in the revolver armorer class.
It sounds like you're engaging the hand's tip against a ratchet to start carry-up, but then instead of allowing the hand to slide up past the initial cut angle and slide against the next part of the ratchet, you make the hand drop away before the tip has moved away from the small angled cut of the ratchet (as designed).
Also, if you're using hand pressure to rotate the cylinder (thinking about turning the cylinder until the stop's ball locks into a cylinder stop notch) as you think that hand is pulling away, you may be introducing some additional unintended (and unrecognized) pressure during the ratchet/hand tip engagement.
This isn't how the hand was designed to contact the ratchet cuts, and you're stopping the normal movement of the hand's top tip/edge in an awkward point of its normal action. You're basically introducing a sudden change of the mechanical engagement, function and movement of the hand (relative to the ratchet cuts) that wasn't intended by the engineers. Why?
If you want to confirm carry-up with the
empty cylinder, why not just confirm carry-up by pulling the trigger in the manner it was designed to be functioned? You could also look in through the head space gap to confirm the firing pin tip protrudes, at the same time.
Then, after you confirm carry-up, you could do a last visual inspection of the hand's tip. (This would've probably allowed you to have seen the damaged tip before loading and holstering the snub.)
Now, since this involves a revolver that uses moon clips, if you want to use the clips for the "check" I'd use dummy rounds (or empty cases) to position and stabilize the the clips for the carry-up check, if doing such a check is something you feel bound and determined to do. (Then I'd check the firing pin movement and tip integrity by opening the cylinder and pushing on the thumb latch, and just look at the firing pin tip as it protrudes from the breech face for the trigger press.)
Granted, it always possible that there was an unseen materials or manufacturing defect in that hand, and it finally failed (without any help from you). But why risk introducing some unusual mechanical operation and resulting condition that may, even if remotely, introduce unintended and unnecessary stress on the parts?
Since this is what might be described as an unusual parts failure, hopefully the revolver repair tech will closely examine the extractor, checking for any signs of the hand having damaged the ratchet cuts (if it was a mechanical interaction that eventually caused the hand's tip to break). Extractors are cut by a special factory-made tool nowadays. Basically a trigger of the right model to which a length of steel bar has been welded, and in which is mounted a specially hardened "cutting" hand, which cuts off the ratchet tips with each "trigger stroke". Any fine tuning can still be done with a Barrett file, though.
Not my 940, and I'm wasn't there and able to inspect it. It's your gun and your business. That said, I'm certainly not going to go out and pull one of my S&W revolvers from the safe to try and replicate the mechanical action to try and duplicate what you like to do, either. (Maybe if I had a beater revolver used in a revolver armorer class, but not with any of my own.
)
Just a couple friendly thoughts.