Catalina25
Member
really nice shotgun !!
"Chopping" the barrel on a Winchester 1897 shotgun for CAS?
- Thread starter MCMXI
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E series.
1858, the "E" in E series, means that there are two buttons located towards the bottom of the receiver about in the middle, front to back. If you push both buttons in at the same time it will "dump" the tube magazine (ie. empty the mag on the ground). That could be a helpful feature in cowboy shooting.
Congrats on a good find,
Wheeler44
1858, the "E" in E series, means that there are two buttons located towards the bottom of the receiver about in the middle, front to back. If you push both buttons in at the same time it will "dump" the tube magazine (ie. empty the mag on the ground). That could be a helpful feature in cowboy shooting.
Congrats on a good find,
Wheeler44
Two Cold Soakers
Member
Woooo Hoo.
A new old shotgun is always reason to celebrate!!!
A new old shotgun is always reason to celebrate!!!
Yeah, I'm excited about it (despite probably paying too much). I'm going to order the AGI Winchester '97 DVD so I can learn how to take care of it properly ...
AGI DVD
ReloaderFred informed me that I'll need to have the chamber checked and will most likely need to have it reamed to work safely with modern ammunition. From what I can gather, it's a very strong design and should work well for years to come if maintained properly.
Wheeler 44, thanks for explaining the E designation ... I'm looking forward to trying out the quick magazine dump method and learning all about this piece of American history.
Catalina25 and Dave, thanks for the support!!
peacemaker45
Member
The primary advantage to a shorter barrelled shotgun isn't in pattern size or swing speed. It has to do with moving with the shotgun. When a stage calls for the shotgun to be shot through 3 different windows, the long barrel hampers getting in and out of said windows in a timely manner. It's a similar issue to getting a long pistol in and out of a holster. The other issue is that the full fixed choke, particularly in a gun that was designed before the use of plastic power pistons was common, tends to throw a pattern of about the same size as a rifle bullet. the old style full choke, combined with modern ammunition produces an effect similar to a super duper extra full. Since we're shooting in a hurry, at targets between 8 and 20 yards, rather than birds at fifty, such a pattern is sub optimal, to say the least.
Anyhow, I'd say that about 75-80% of '97 shooters use one that's been cut down, or a norinco that was built that way.
If avoiding the norks, and not having to desecrate a good original is your goal, I'd suggest buying one that's already been hacked, tubed, and tuned for SASS. they generally run about 5-600 bucks on the sass wire.
One thing about SASS, though is although it can be satisfying to shoot the originals, it's danged hard on the originals. Guns get shot fast, slammed around, slamfired, and occasionally dropped.
One of the saddest things I ever saw at a SASS match was a fellow who always prided himself on shooting originals, and doing so competitively. The stage required that pistols be staged on the table, rather than being holstered. When he slammed his second pistol down, it inadvertantly landed on top of his rifle. The end result was that the circa 1891 Mother of Pearl grip got busted off of the 1884 Colt SAA, which then exposed the steel of the grip frame. Said steel promptly gouged a four inch chunk in the barrel of his circa 1884 Model '73. Poor guy literally cried.
~~~Mat, aka Jerkline Jesse
Anyhow, I'd say that about 75-80% of '97 shooters use one that's been cut down, or a norinco that was built that way.
If avoiding the norks, and not having to desecrate a good original is your goal, I'd suggest buying one that's already been hacked, tubed, and tuned for SASS. they generally run about 5-600 bucks on the sass wire.
One thing about SASS, though is although it can be satisfying to shoot the originals, it's danged hard on the originals. Guns get shot fast, slammed around, slamfired, and occasionally dropped.
One of the saddest things I ever saw at a SASS match was a fellow who always prided himself on shooting originals, and doing so competitively. The stage required that pistols be staged on the table, rather than being holstered. When he slammed his second pistol down, it inadvertantly landed on top of his rifle. The end result was that the circa 1891 Mother of Pearl grip got busted off of the 1884 Colt SAA, which then exposed the steel of the grip frame. Said steel promptly gouged a four inch chunk in the barrel of his circa 1884 Model '73. Poor guy literally cried.
~~~Mat, aka Jerkline Jesse
streakr
Member
I have 2 97's and a chinese copy. The first 97 (made 1916) is a Black diamond that I bought in the early 70's for duck and goose. It has a 32" full choke barrel and cost me 75 bucks. I would never touch that barrel due to the inherent value of that SG.
My other Winchester 97 is a 1910 made brush gun with a 24" barrel and choke tubes installed later. I would not cut it since it's just fine for CAS as well as trap/skeet.
The chinese 97 has a 20" barrel and is my main pump for CAS as it was cheap and stout.
Point is this: The 1897s are becoming scarcer but other than CAS there is little other use for them. My BD is a collectible yet cost me a pittance in 1972.
Unless there is collectible or sentimental value, do what you want to do!!!
streakr
My other Winchester 97 is a 1910 made brush gun with a 24" barrel and choke tubes installed later. I would not cut it since it's just fine for CAS as well as trap/skeet.
The chinese 97 has a 20" barrel and is my main pump for CAS as it was cheap and stout.
Point is this: The 1897s are becoming scarcer but other than CAS there is little other use for them. My BD is a collectible yet cost me a pittance in 1972.
Unless there is collectible or sentimental value, do what you want to do!!!
streakr
ScottsGT
Member
If you are going to use it for games, you will benefit from a shorter and lighter shotgun.
I hacked mine off at 18.5 and had it threaded for choke tubes. I slopped a lot of fine lapping compound in there and worked the action a bunch to smooth it out. The trigger breaks very nice at about 3 lbs.
I would do it the exact same next time.
I hacked mine off at 18.5 and had it threaded for choke tubes. I slopped a lot of fine lapping compound in there and worked the action a bunch to smooth it out. The trigger breaks very nice at about 3 lbs.
I would do it the exact same next time.
Mat,
In my experience choke has very little impact on pattern size at 20 yards, maybe 3" in the radius of the pattern. And that difference at the fringe of the pattern may help or not depending on how hard you need to hit the target to register a score. With a clay target a pellet or two is enough. What are you shooting at and is it hard to take don like a large steel silouette??
At 8 yards, I cant see the point to worrying about the choke, you either hit or miss.....
But then again I admit to prejudice. I think the effort that goes into choke selection is way overrated. I'm shooting skeet etc with a full choke most of the time and I dont think it costs me any targets. Most misses at flying targets are by feet not inches.
Jeff
In my experience choke has very little impact on pattern size at 20 yards, maybe 3" in the radius of the pattern. And that difference at the fringe of the pattern may help or not depending on how hard you need to hit the target to register a score. With a clay target a pellet or two is enough. What are you shooting at and is it hard to take don like a large steel silouette??
At 8 yards, I cant see the point to worrying about the choke, you either hit or miss.....
But then again I admit to prejudice. I think the effort that goes into choke selection is way overrated. I'm shooting skeet etc with a full choke most of the time and I dont think it costs me any targets. Most misses at flying targets are by feet not inches.
Jeff
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