cleaning rods

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I'm not doubting you, but I've never heard of a snake snapping and becoming stuck in the barrel. Most snakes aren't thick enough to become permanently wedged inside a barrel, except perhaps a .22/.223 diameter barrel.

In fact, I prefer using one size-up bore snakes in my firearms (9mm, use .40cal; .40cal use .45, .45 use .50 etc.) just to get a bit more friction contact in the barrel. -but I will start paying more attention to my bore snakes and examine them for wear and fraying from now on.

If a snake did actually get stuck, I don't see why it couldn't be pushed through with a barb on the end of a rod?
 
yeah, I do not see how it could be a tight as a squib.
what kind of b/p rifle did you buy? was it a kit?
 
(Sometimes resulting in a damaged / destroyed barrel.)

A destroyed barrel over a cotton rope? Can someone please show an example of this happening in reality. It seems like a problem created by the companies that produce rods not snakes to bring poularity back to rods...

If it snaps push it out with a wooden dowl....or a rod.
 
Reloadron:

This is the one that REALLY stuck in my memory, I couldn't find it last night but remembered the thread title this morning.

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=719926&highlight=shoot+bore+snake

That is an example of a real worst case scenario that went from bad to worse.
@ Trent

Yeah, I remember that one now. That was a classic. :)

While I have nothing against bore snakes and can appreciate that some people swear by them I have just never seen a use for them in my life. I have had plenty of pull through military cleaning kits but always saw them as more a novelty than practical for my use.

Ron
 
Shooting very fine and shooting very well are very subjective to say the least.

Those who shoot the best as in the NRA Small Bore Nationals use uncoated S/S rods as do most Bench shooters.

Its a given they also use a rod guide AKA bore guide.


This ^^^^^.

At National Match Armorers School the merits of one piece Coated Rods versus Uncoated SS rods was discussed. The Uncoated SS was favored. The thinking being the coated rods collected debris in the plastic and that the plastic eventually splits. How much and how soon either of those factors matters is open to debate of course. At SOTIC the Uncoated SS rods were used in the 1980s for M21, and other rifles. I believe that people who are obsessed with maintaining the mechanical accuracy of their rifles are not just making an emotional decision to use one piece Coated and Uncoated SS Rods.
 
It would likely bunch up and wedge tighter when you pushed it.

I really don't see that happening but if it did, I would then use a corkscrew style patch extractor. If it was truly a hardcore situation, I would get some help and push/pull at the same time.

As unlikely as a stuck boresnake is, removing one shouldn't be a huge production.
 
One stuck in a .22 would be a nightmare.
yeah there is not a whole lot of room. I didn't think of bore snakes in the op. people have been sticking rods down there bbls forever. I think I will just tick with the ones I have.
I have a ss set and a brass set. if it is going to take 10k of ammo to use up a bbl, I don't
think either rod will hurt a bbl. come to think of it what of the brass brush?
 
Brass brush is fine as long as you aren't using it with copper bore cleaner solvents.

The place most people damage their guns while cleaning is the crown - if your gun allows it clean from the breech not the muzzle, and try not to push the rod clear through (park the barrel 1/2" from a wall so you can't push the rod clean out.)

If you do have to clean from the muzzle (Ruger 10/22/etc) use a muzzle cap protector to keep the rod centered and prevent it from riding along the crown.

Seen many a gun's accuracy ruined by knicks or worn spots on the crown. Can be repaired but still, sends shooters chasing their tails if they don't know what to look for, "my barrel must be shot out!"... "No, it's not shot out, you were an idiot while cleaning it, needs a crown job"...

(I'm not much of a people person sometimes)
 
A stuck boresnake would be the biggest deal in the world to fix. Using a grease gun to hydraulically push out a stuck bullet (that couldn't be shot out) in a muzzleloader would be far worse.
 
A stuck boresnake would be the biggest deal in the world to fix. Using a grease gun to hydraulically push out a stuck bullet (that couldn't be shot out) in a muzzleloader would be far worse.
Naw, it's very easy, just shoot it out. :)

Check out a few of the stuck snake links I listed.

Note: For the gullible at heart, no I am not serious.

Ron
 
I use one piece aluminum and and steel rods. All my rods get wiped down as I clean, and after I'm finished with them. I also use bore guides, they almost completely eliminate rod contact with the bore by minimizing bowing.

What I don't like, or use, are stainless steel bore brushes. I've never quite understood the thinking there, why make a bore brush that could damage, or cause excessive wear to the bore? If my barrels ever develop excessive build up, which mine don't, I run a bore brush with 0000 steel wool wrapped around it. Heavy copper fouling is something I often see on other people rifles, in which they didn't properly break the barrels in, and, or, they didn't regularly clean and maintain them.

GS
 
I use one piece aluminum and and steel rods. All my rods get wiped down as I clean, and after I'm finished with them. I also use bore guides, they almost completely eliminate rod contact with the bore by minimizing bowing.

What I don't like, or use, are stainless steel bore brushes. I've never quite understood the thinking there, why make a bore brush that could damage, or cause excessive wear to the bore? If my barrels ever develop excessive build up, which mine don't, I run a bore brush with 0000 steel wool wrapped around it. Heavy copper fouling is something I often see on other people rifles, in which they didn't properly break the barrels in, and, or, they didn't regularly clean and maintain them.

GS

Me either. I was taught, after I was mis-taught, that you should strive to clean chemically not mechanically. In other words, use and allow enough time for bore cleaners that chemically loosen powder and jacket material so you can push it out with a patch instead of attempting to mechanically scrape it out with brushes. Don't use SS brushes, don't use bronze/brass brushes but instead plastic with copper solvents like Sweet's 7.62, but most of all don't use brushes unless you have to.

Trent -
The place most people damage their guns while cleaning is the crown - if your gun allows it clean from the breech not the muzzle, and try not to push the rod clear through (park the barrel 1/2" from a wall so you can't push the rod clean out.)

Which made cleaning M21s a real PITA because of the long and reamed flash suppressor so we used a cone shaped rod guide at the muzzle.
 
I use one piece aluminum and and steel rods. All my rods get wiped down as I clean, and after I'm finished with them. I also use bore guides, they almost completely eliminate rod contact with the bore by minimizing bowing.

What I don't like, or use, are stainless steel bore brushes. I've never quite understood the thinking there, why make a bore brush that could damage, or cause excessive wear to the bore? If my barrels ever develop excessive build up, which mine don't, I run a bore brush with 0000 steel wool wrapped around it. Heavy copper fouling is something I often see on other people rifles, in which they didn't properly break the barrels in, and, or, they didn't regularly clean and maintain them.

GS

There's really no advantage to using the old barrel break-in protocols of the past with today's firearms. In some cases there was never an advantage.
 
Naw, it's very easy, just shoot it out. :)

Check out a few of the stuck snake links I listed.

Note: For the gullible at heart, no I am not serious.

Ron

Naw, that's just nonsense. It's sad how folklore gets fabricated and then goes on to impact some shooters.

As I recently said I took up BP shooting. The experts on a BP forum were quick to tell me NEVER to use a bore brush. Almost as if they were trying to convince themselves they were right NEVER to use a bore brush.

I cleaned by rifle -- using a bore brush of course and a FLOOD of people noted how they too use brushes. It was an almost cathartic release for some on the forum. Just gotta use some common sense. Same with bore snakes. I suspect they fail very rarely -- particularly for those able/willing to give them a quick inspection before each use.

Bore snakes do a good job. Superior to rod/patches I suspect. It's rather sad to see people denigrate their use because they "heard" of problems from others. Problems that could be solved easily enough if they were ever actually afflicted by one in their oen lifetimes.

I was thinking about the person who claimed on this thread to have seen military rifles with grooves cut into their barrel crowns by careless cleaning. I don't think I have ever seen that despite looking at well over 100K military rifles in my life.

Folklore seems to be especially pernicious in the firearms world...
 
I use a boresnake for casual cleaning but I found I can't clear chamber fouling on my .22s unless I use a brush.
For that purpose I have a one piece steel rod by Parker Hale. It is coated like the Dewey Rod.
 
I was thinking about the person who claimed on this thread to have seen military rifles with grooves cut into their barrel crowns by careless cleaning. I don't think I have ever seen that despite looking at well over 100K military rifles in my life.
this was a number of years ago. Old military bolt rifles with steel cleaning rods. Maybe they had been parade rifles and all the guys did was sit around and clean. Dunno

All I know is that there was a very prominent groove at the 5 O'clock position with the front sight held at the 12 O'clock position. Older vintage, maybe WW I vintage. Don't have any idea now. This was probably at least twenty five years ago. Did make a lasting impression with me

After shooting for over fifty years, I have every confidence that very minor damage to the crown can have a significant effect on accuracy. Metal grinding on metal can't be good, but it's your rifle
 
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