Cold Bluing, and peach fuzz

[TheFlynn01]

Hey there everyone!

I came across a Star BM, three mags, original box and booklet at my LGS, for $100 bucks... couldn't let it pass. Shoots and runs great too!

Only thing is the finish is all but gone. So I figured I would disassemble and cold blue it. During the process it wants to wash with water after degreasing. I tried this, and notice that it will cause a bit of "peach fuzz" like rust to form on the surface. So I figure I am doing something wrong, or maybe taking too long between parts that I am trying to blue, as I figured I would do the whole thing.

I always wanted to try the process, and I wouldn't feel too guilty on a $100 pistol.. or so I thought. This forum has always given me good advise and I am hoping to get some now.

Thanks for reading!

 

[gobsauce]

Any chance for a picture of the "peach fuzz"?

 

[TheFlynn01]

Any chance for a picture of the "peach fuzz"?

Not at the moment. When the 'fuzz' started to form on the surface I brushed it off with steel wool and covered it in oil to let the bluing take. I was going to degrease and put some more coats on tomorrow. If there is any left after my brushing from before, I will be sure to snap a picture. It was a strange light dusting of rust. I dont know if it was from me and rising and drying with water, or if it was from what was already there hidden under oil and grime

 

[gobsauce]

I've had that happen before, it's an incredibly fine layer of surface rust. In my experience, it's just the cold blueing agent doing it's thing.

 

[Kp321]

Use very hot water and it will flash dry before the rust has a chance to form. Then swab the cold blue on while the metal is still warm.
I personally use Brownells Oxphoblue Cream. No water wash after chemical (acetone) degreasing, then heat the metal with a hair dryer or heat gun till it is uncomfortably warm to the touch before putting the blue on.

 

[TheFlynn01]

I've had that happen before, it's an incredibly fine layer of surface rust. In my experience, it's just the cold blueing agent doing it's thing.

It did seem super fine, I just want to make sure I am not doing more harm that good! I got rid of the other rust, and it has light pitting on the frame, so I wanted to make sure it was all inert.

Use very hot water and it will flash dry before the rust has a chance to form. Then swab the cold blue on while the metal is still warm.
I personally use Brownells Oxphoblue Cream. No water wash after chemical (acetone) degreasing, then heat the metal with a hair dryer or heat gun till it is uncomfortably warm to the touch before putting the blue on.

Hmm hot water makes sense but the instructions on the Birchwood Casey stuff mentioned cold water. Heating up the metal does sound interesting though.

 

[Coyote3855]

I have good luck with cold blue when I first degrease with alcohol, then heat the surface with a hair dryer and apply multiple layers of cold blue with a Q-tip. Then a rub down with oil to quell the chemical reaction.

 

[TheFlynn01]

I have good luck with cold blue when I first degrease with alcohol, then heat the surface with a hair dryer and apply multiple layers of cold blue with a Q-tip. Then a rub down with oil to quell the chemical reaction.

Do you not need to use water to stop the reaction?

 

[Coyote3855]

I've always used oil. And have spaced the repeated applications over a few days.

 

[Hugger-4641]

I heat my parts in an oven to 150f and then apply the cold blue. I can rinse and apply another coat quickly this way.

Which cold blue are you using, Perma Blue or Super?
I haven't had good results with Perma Blue, Super Blue gives a darker finish.

 

[TheFlynn01]

So I was using Perma blue, I switched to hot water and heating the parts a bit and it came out great. Taking the time to do one part at a time and clean it up kept the 'fuzz' at bay. Thank you for all your help everyone!