Common AR problems

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Charlie98

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I've always found my AR's to be pretty well assembled and reliable. That changed yesterday...

I traded into a DPMS Oracle AR-15 a few years ago. Nothing scientific... I pumped about 1000 rounds through it to prove it, and then I gifted it to my brother a year or two ago. During my test run, I did note the accuracy fell off pretty good when the barrel was hot, and really went to pot when I put sling tension on the forearm. I put it down to a chezzy barrel and called it a day. He wanted an AR, but I also knew it would likely sit in the safe for most of it's life... so the bottom-end DPMS would work pretty well in that role.

About the same time, I started to build my own AR's... from parts. Understanding how everything went together, and how easily everything assembled (and disassembled...) was a quick learn, and even fun. To that end, I built my brother a new upper... to replace the noodle-barreled upper on the DPMS. Nice mid-weight middy barrel, low-pro gas block, freefloat forearm. Easy peasy. I brought the DPMS upper back to disassemble it... and decide what I wanted to do with it... and then I realized what was wrong. The DPMS had the standard barrel locking nut/delta ring assembly. Once I pulled the gas tube... I was actually able to unscrew the barrel nut with finger pressure! Good heavens.

Of course, I've heard of loose barrel nuts... but never thought I'd see one. As I learned to assemble AR's, I also found it was easy to have a look at an assembled AR and fairly reasonably diagnose problems with them (most of the time, there is always an exception.) As soon as I pulled the handguards off this thing... I knew what was wrong.


Without turning this thread into an AR-bashing thread... what other things have you found amiss with your AR's? What things do you check when you pick up a new (or new to you) AR? What's the worst thing you have ever found that was not wear-related? Say... poor assembly, or poor parts match? The best teacher is often experience... what say you? :)
 
A lot of loose gas blocks on commercial models, especially set screw type blocks.

Lots of home built AR’s have come to my bench because they “don’t work,” one pin and a few seconds reveals a backwards hammer spring.

I’ve built a LOT of non-5.56 AR’s, and out of something around 40-50 Grendel/x39 bolts, ALMOST UNILATERALLY, the extractor bevels aren’t long enough, nor is the curvature correct, so I’ve had to fix these in almost every single instance to improve feeding.
 
On commercial units, often loose or misaligned gas blocks. Misaligned handguards. A few under torqued barrel nuts. Crooked front sight towers.
 
I'd say #1 over gassing ,#2 failure to lock back or cycle . Wrong buffer weight and or springs .
Gas blocks pinned are pretty much fool proof ,screwed on blocks require barrel dimpling and Loctite IMO . Barrel torquing is essential as is timing . The holy grail is KNOWING what Diameter Gas port to drill ,if the barrel manufacturer Hasn't done it already . AR15's not so much as there's a simple guide to follow . AR10's .762X51mm 6.5 CM not so much . Then there's running suppressed and open less gas more gas respectively . Most of the Commercial AR 15's I've encountered run 30% more gas than necessary but they function with near any load too.
 
Worst AR I've had in my hands was a Ruger 5.56.
One of my employees bought it new, I helped him un box it, and it wouldn't cycle more than one or two rds.
I was the one who recommended he buy either this gun or a M&P Sport II. I'm sure Ruger would have made it right, but at the time I didn't care to make him deal with it. I traded him a new Sport II for the Ruger because I knew I could probably fix it or send it to Ruger later.
Well, later came around and I decided to look at it before sending it back.
Found two issues: the little keeper clip on the fire pin retainer was not installed correctly. It would spin around to the right place to allow it to cycle a few times and then would bind up the bolt. Thought I had it fixed, ran a couple mags and it quit cycling again. This time the gas block was loose. Tightened it and it came loose again. Ended up doing a little sand paper work and blue loctite and it finally stayed put. Ended up trading it to another friend with full disclosure of what I'd done to it.
 
I've seen loose barrel nuts on factory Colt M4a1s. One was out of the box and the others had been in service for some time. It is now one of the first things I check when I'm confident in the shooter's ability, but still not much of a group.
 
they make a BCG where you can adjust gas with a screw on the side of the bolt when the bolt is closed. unless a gas block is pinned it is nothing but trouble
 
My Ruger was fine, no issues over lots of rounds. My BCA 450 upper had a loose gas block and hand guard after less than 20 rounds.

-Jeff
 
A lot of loose gas blocks on commercial models, especially set screw type blocks.

Lots of home built AR’s have come to my bench because they “don’t work,” one pin and a few seconds reveals a backwards hammer spring.

I’ve built a LOT of non-5.56 AR’s, and out of something around 40-50 Grendel/x39 bolts, ALMOST UNILATERALLY, the extractor bevels aren’t long enough, nor is the curvature correct, so I’ve had to fix these in almost every single instance to improve feeding.

I had the backwards hammer spring issue. It caused an occasional light strike. Thankfully the forum boards helped me diagnose where I had messed up. The only other issue I had was failure to extracts. Once again someone on the forum boards advised me to scrub the chamber. The AR I put together was a blemished "Premium Cold Hammer Forged" kit from PSA (it had a place on the barrel where the parkerizing was rubbed off). It has ran fine since then & I learned to clean & lube before the first range trip.
 
I've seen two with loose barrel nuts, loose or improperly installed gas blocks, gas blocks that didn't have the port hole line up with the barrel port, one had too long of a gas tube. No idea how that got past qc. I saw one upper that had the scope rail out of spec. Too narrow. But that was old school Olympic arms and no idea who did the casting. Had an aftermarket birdcage flash hider with a .220 hole through it. I did see one that the barrel nut would NOT fit the clamshell forend. The delta ring wouldn't slide forward over the forend halves. I think that was a dpms. Lots of anomalies, most from out of spec parts. But it's a machine, and they can be messed up. Most are easy fixes...
 
I think a properly assembled AR is very reliable. Most issues I’ve seen came from things that could easily have been a non issue if installed like it was supposed to.

The worst I’ve seen was a home build. The rear take down lug came completely out because it didn’t have the detent installed. The end plate spun left and right and the barrel nut was loose.

I’ve seen one psa factory gun that had a gas block that was loose, and was then corrected.

But the majority of ARs I’ve seen run just fine. My Colt and BCM’s run. My shooting buddies Daniel Defense runs. My brothers S&W and BCM runs. But they’re all put together pretty well and I think that’s the key.
 
Improper assembly, poor quality barrels, ammunition (either low quality or ammunition a specific gun just doesn't "like" for 1 reason or another), low quality optics, improperly installed optics, shooter error/capabilities/expectations.
 
I've seen loose barrel nuts on factory Colt M4a1s. One was out of the box and the others had been in service for some time. It is now one of the first things I check when I'm confident in the shooter's ability, but still not much of a group.

That's basically what happened here, with my DPMS.

Looking back on it, and some of the things I've learned in other threads on AR's, I wonder if the barrel nut was actually torqued to a lower value of torque spec, and the threads stretched or something.

Lots of anomalies, most from out of spec parts.

I wonder about some of that, too. MIL SPEC is a term used a lot, I think some manufacturer's idea of that is pretty vague... kind of like 'new and improved.'
 
I bought a DPMS upper approx. 5 years ago for my lower build. After about 300 rds the rifle would not cycle. I disassembled the upper to check. I found that the key on the bolt carrier group was loose and missing a screw. Upon further close inspection I could see the key screws were not staked properly. When I wrote to DPMS about this they just blew me off, so I bought an Odin BCG to replace the DPMS BCG and it has been fine ever since. I replaced the screws on the key of the DPMS and securely staked the screws so now I have a spare BCG.
 
Hi...
I have one AR rifle be and my son has two. He built all three of them and they all function very well.
Biggest issue seems to be that no matter how many hundreds of rounds he loads, he always seems to run out before he wants to quit shooting. Of course, he seems to have the same problem with just about every other caliber no matter whether rifle, shotgun or handgun.
Those things are so much fun to shoot that they chew up ammunition at an amazing rate.
 
At last count I've got 8 AR carbines and 4 pistol configs in various calibers. Ranging from BCM to BCA in terms of cost. The only issues I've ever had were two Palmetto State Armory free float handguards start to work loose due to a few screws that just needed to be tightened (both had bipods so caused by recoil) and a PSA premium bcg that was a tight fit in a .300bo PSA 8" pistol (purchased separately). Wouldn't have been an issue with 5.56 but was with .300bo in an unsupressed 8" barrel. But same bcg worked fine in my PSA 16" upper and THAT bcg which came with the upper fit the pistol. So just a tolerance stacking issue.
 
Hi...
I have one AR rifle be and my son has two. He built all three of them and they all function very well.
Biggest issue seems to be that no matter how many hundreds of rounds he loads, he always seems to run out before he wants to quit shooting. Of course, he seems to have the same problem with just about every other caliber no matter whether rifle, shotgun or handgun.
Those things are so much fun to shoot that they chew up ammunition at an amazing rate.
They are hungry, that's for sure...
 
I had one that would not shoot better than about 4 moa no matter what I fed it.
Only thing messed up on the that I could find was the head space was way out, with every bolt I had.
Replaced the barrel everything was good.
Still got $50 for the meased up barrel, even with a warning saying it won't shoot better than 6moa.
 
PSA 308 bolt would not headspace with the original barrel nor would it headspace with the Faxon replacement. Lantac bolt fixed it.

Bushmaster (Remington days) AR15 loose gas key. The bolts were properly staked and had not moved, but they were never torqued in the first place. The staking was done to loose bolts.
 
I had a new bolt from a well respected company that came with a weak extractor spring. Easy fix with Sprinco replacement.

A Fail Zero bolt carrier had a cam pin hole too small for the pin. Tolerance stacking of the coating I assume. A standard cam pin fit fine.

I steer clear of Daniel Defense rails due to the horrible barrel nut and wrench. Both are made of soft metal and strip out easily. Maybe they have fixed the problem in recent years.
 
Worst issue Ive had ordered a new barrel for my prairie dog rifle, this was during the Clinton ban. It came with a pinned muzzle break. I was ready to send it back because would not hold a group. most looked like shotgun patterns. when the break came off during testing. was a big gold streak on one side of it. after that it shot fine. Looked kind of funny with a silver end to the barrel..
 
Biggest issue I have with mine is getting the front takedown pin installed without shooting the detent into kaint find it land.
I've had a buddy with the hammer spring backwards and another with a bad gas block that blocked gas port when installed.
 
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