Comparing low-end safes

[ks_shooter]

I am looking a three different low-end gun safes. I would like to know if anyone has a recommendation on these brands. They are all about the same size (60"x30"x22/24") offering about 23 cubic feet of space. The all claim a 30 minute 1200 degree fire rating.

The first model is the Pioneer by Frontier. It has internal hinges and locking bolts on one side. A local gun shop is selling them for $799.

The second model is the Freedom Safe by Liberty. Tractor Supply is selling it for $799. It has internal hinges and locking bolts on one side.

The last model is the Cabela's Trophy Safe. This appears to be a re-labeled Browning Bridger. Cabela's is sellling it for $699. It has external hinges with dead pins and locking bolts on one side.

I like the external hinges for access and for being able to remove the door when moving the safe. The Frontier and Liberty seems to use a solid plate on the door, while the Bridger uses a "composite" constructioin door.

 

[Dr.Rob]

I've been looking at a number of safes, a gun shop owner advised me, wait until after Christmas, hit the big retail chains for the aftermarket sales.

It's best to buy locally, whatever you do, as shipping will set you back another $200.

A buddy with a pickup truck can save you some cash.

I also found that many safes come with internal shelves etc. that many others don't. Best to buy exactly what you want, and leave yourself a little "growing room".

 

[Highland Ranger]

Do a search on "residential security container" here and on the firing line (http://www.thefiringline.com/)

Someone who was a safe expert gave a lot of good info.

His advice was that most residential safe's aren't. For the most part the door is the only thing rated so you'd need to lock the thing in solid concrete to enjoy the rating. Also the ratings are for 15 minutes with hand tools i.e. kid with a hammer and a screwdriver or pry bar can get into one of these things in 15 minutes.

Not worth much for that kind of protection.

He also had cautions about the fire ratings and how they matched up with what a safe would really see in a fire.

Bottom line, if these aren't family heirlooms and they are insured then you probably just want to keep them away from the casual theif and or kids.

If thats the case, a well hidden metal security cabinet (stack on and others make them) can do the job for a lot less $$$$$$

If they are family heirlooms then maybe more agressive measures are called for . . . .

 

[ks_shooter]

I am most concerned with "smash and grab" theft and children. I doubt that there will be any professional thiefs striking in my neighborhood. I think that the level of contruction on these safes is adequate to deter someone using hand tools (hammers, pry-bars).

I am mainly interested in fire protection, since I live out in the country and response times are pretty slow. The Bridger is certified by Omega. The normal Liberty safes are also - but I'm not sure if the Freedom Safes are or not. The Frontier safe is not independently rated. The salesman said that it was "designed" to withstand 1200 deg. for 30 minutes.

 

[ks_shooter]

Dr. Rob,

Here is another safe to consider. This is the best deal I have found yet. It has 10 gauge steel in the body and a 1/4" steel plate in the door. Other brands built to these specs cost well over $1,000. I think that I may add some additional fireliner myself after I get it to extend the 30 minute rating. I looked one over in the store, they are very nicely made, especially for $700.

http://winchestersafes.com/

 

[Master Blaster]

My philosophy on safes:

Security needs to be layered: Good alarm system with response / monitoring. X-10 cam to record interlopers.
Adequate insurance coverage for the collection.
If the theif does not ahve time to look for and open the safe due to the Alarm, I think you can get away with a lesser safe.

You might be surprised how easily you can open a 2 ton real safe.


http://safecrackers.net/products_plate1.html

 

[ks_shooter]

I would add that, I often hear people say to buy a bigger safe than you think you will need, because your collection will grow. I would rather have two smaller safes than one big one. Easier to move, and you don't have "all of your eggs in one basket". From what I can see the bigger safes cost enough more that you could probably afford two smaller ones for about the same price from the same manufacturer.

 

[BenW]

I would rather have two smaller safes than one big one.

Actually, this came up in a past thread on safes. Somebody mentioned that you could get two (or several) smaller safes, drill holes through the sidewalls, and bolt them together. Makes for a big unwieldy contraption that can be broken down if you ever have to move it. I'm thinking of doing that this year because my milsurp collecting has outgrown my current safes (one big and one small) and I dread getting another 1000LB hunk of steel to have to deal with.

 

[CB900F]

KS Shooter & all;

IMHO, internal hinges are to be avoided. If the door, for whatever reason, gets out of plumb, they are a screaming b!tch to deal with. Composite doors are literally child's play to peel open. We have one in the shop that a 15-year-old forced open with a tire spoon. That's about an 18" lever with a broad thin wedge on one end. Liberty's have composite doors. Plate steel beats composite every time in theft protection. Ten gauge steel walls are better than 12 gauge, the higher the #, the thinner the steel.

900F