Cons about making homemade blackpowder

Status
Not open for further replies.
You can buy 99% pure potasium nitrate on ebay for 430 with shipping for 15 pounds IIRC. They also will double the order with the same $15 dollar shipping charge. That will give you 30 pounds of KNO for $5 bucks.

I just ordered 25lbs of Goex from Powder Inc. for $13.10 per pound. Fifty pounds cost the same per pound. Thats the best way to go. Just buy it ready made and then work your job. You won't save that much making your own.

I think buying the KNO and setting it back in case BP is banned is a good idea. Also if you read the Backwoodsman Magazine there is an article called Making granma's Black Powder that is worth the price of the back issue for the information. No charcol is needed either. Just potasium, rust (iron oxide) and suger. This was used in a flintlock by the way.
 
Right now I buy Black,If I get it from the club.Only one store,Goex at 26.00 out the door for a pound.If it was unavailable...we have willow and alder all over the place,ag nitrate,and 90% pure sulfer,which works out to less than 1% impurities.The hard part is going to be finding more lead.
 
You can buy 99% pure potasium nitrate on ebay for 430 with shipping for 15 pounds IIRC. They also will double the order with the same $15 dollar shipping charge. That will give you 30 pounds of KNO for $5 bucks.

That was supposed to read $45 bucks for 30 pounds of KNO.
 
we lost this man last week in my town. THE POINT IS HE MADE A MISTAKE.this guy had been doing this for years,sold different blends, ex ky state trooper..ex gunshop owner, ammo manufactuer, black powder manufactuer . he was lisenced to do this.. this was a man who will be missed by many.. he wasn't a beginer, and wasn't senile, a shame to die by his hobby and job.. i bought my first reloading press from him many years ago.
look on the net you can find it all stanford, ky his name is shannon corman. the blast was heared 15 miles away, and felt a long way off.
just thought it might somebody else think, don't be carless

Posted: Jan 12, 2010 10:36 PM
Updated: Jan 13, 2010 7:21 AM

A former Kentucky State Trooper was killed in a massive explosion behind his Lincoln County home Tuesday afternoon.

Investigators say black powder set off the massive blast that killed 80-year-old Shannon Corman. His wife Louise and 57-year-old James Greenwood were seriously injured and airlifted to UK Hospital.

The explosion happened around 3 p.m. on Oak St. near downtown Stanford. Witnesses say multiple blasts shook houses as far as five miles away from the scene.

Police say Corman operated a gun shop behind his house, where he often worked with black powder. Investigators say a space heater, an electrical outlet, or even static electricity could have set off the blast.

Tuesday night, Louise Corman was listed in serious condition and Greenwood was listed in critical condition at UK.

Officials say they will take Shannon Corman's body to Frankfort for an autopsy.
THERE ARE MANY MORE UPDATES JUST SEARCH STANFORD ,KY SHANNON CORMAN
 
I read about that explosion. Holy cows. Who would have thought an experienced maker could go glock? RIP. It's happened to the best of powder makers.
 
Making BP is dangerous. PERIOD!

I have known how to make BP for years. Unless absolutely necessary, I will leave it to the pros. Even they make mistakes. The GOEX plant has had at least 4 major accidents with their plant in Louisiana, including loss of life.
 
Yes, and a drunk driver could cross the line and kill you on your way home from church.
Not to be a smart ass, but if you go through life worrying are you really living?
I think safety and responsibility are VERY important and we each have to weigh the odds.
If BP can be made safely........Why not?
I suppose a chain fire in your wheel gun would ruin your day but we all still love to shoot them!
 
I live a long way from the ocean and still believe there is a greater chance I would be attacked by a "great white shark"
No one at the scene of the accident can verify what happened, one is dead and neither of the other two are capable of talking . All that happened is only "believed" to be what happened. No one knows for sure at this time what took place. But almost assuredly gun powder was involved unless he was into other things.
I did an extensive search of the information available on this accident and nowhere is any of this information attributed to either of the survivors.
Blast was heard 20 miles away?? I don't believe it!!
Jim
 
Yeah...sounds fishy...


BP when ignited...unless confined in a very resistive container when ignited, which then ruptures under gaining pressure...will not make a 'Bang', big or otherwise, anyway...even if it may make a 'Whoooosh!'...


A BP incident was not likely the ex Trooper's undoing...
 
The simple fact is it is not now necessary to make your own powder, so why do it? I have done it years ago and it worked fine. I did this at about age 8-10. It is not that hard. If I need to I can. I have done many other things to live: jump out of air planes, rock climb rafting, boxed, etc. All unnecessary but fun. Later, it might prove necessary to make my own powder. Now it is not.

If making your own BP floats your boat, fine. Just do it far enough away from the rest of us to not hurt us if you make a mistake. Let us choose our own risks. Don't do it for us.

According a report I read, there was three thousand pounds of "substance" found by the ATF on the property after the explosion. In addition, his "client list" included novelty cannon and re-enactment groups. I am wondering if he was doing special effect loads for these groups and was mixing things with BP.

We may never know what really happened.
 
When the Revolution broke out in 1775, there was a severe shortage of powder at hand in the colonies. Instructions were printed in the newspapers and making blackpowder became a cottage industry. I've yet to go over the period newspapers to see how many accidents were reported. Still, it can be done but do it safely so you can go to bed in one piece. Me, I buy Goex.
 
I have to draw the line with makeing the powder and or caps .
I cast my own balls & bullets ...buy pillow ticking by the yard and cut and lube my patches , mix my own lube recipe and pan lube my bullets...do all my own gunsmithing ..spend time scrounging for scrap lead .
Seems I`m saveing enough money for my hobby .
But if I thought I could make my own powder and it be as good as Swiss powder...you bet I`d give it a try ....not sure where I`d find the time though .
I still enjoy shooting more than working ...I`d have to moon lite on the powder makeing .
 
Now, I'm the last person to really care, but doesn't our most benign central government prohibit making black powder (low explosive) without licensing????
 
Even though it's legal to make for your own use I concider making my own as a last resort due to the nature of makin' the BP and siftin' it while wet... ect. It is dangerous but good to know how to make it if you have the apptitude for it.
I worked as an Explosives Test Tech for while here in So. CA ... In that years time two mixing magazine Buildings had explosions and injuries. Makin' it is much more hazardous than jus' shootin' the BP or Powders in general.
I still have a quantity of KIK BP left along with a few Goex cans ... gotta practice my Long Guns and 10ga SxS before the March 9th Rondy comes up this year in the Angeles National Forest. I got somebody to beat on the Walk thru course :O)
Ned Bring yer hawk and Knife to throw too, they count heehee!
 
SG - My apologies, sir. I owe you one hot cup of java. Would a fine single malt scotch or irish do in a pinch?
 
Black Powder (Gunpowder) is the backbone of pyrotechnics. After all, it's Black
Powder that gives fireworks the smell we all love so much. Black Powder is the
main ingredient in a variety of firework and rocket formulas. You can easily
make your own high quality Black Powder with just a few chemicals and a Ball
Mill <mills.htm>.


Black Powder Basics

Black Powder is also known by a couple of other names. The most common, is Gun
Powder. Black powder is produced in large quantities commercially, and sold in
small 1 pound containers, mainly for use in antique Black Powder guns. It is
also normally sold in different granulations, and they indicate how fine the
Black Powder is granulated by how many "F's" they put on the container. Coarse
granulations are called "FG or FFG" (aka "1Fg" and "2Fg"). Finer granulations
are "FFFg and "FFFFg" (aka 3Fg and 4Fg). The more "F's", the finer the Black
Powder... and the finer the Black Powder is, the faster it burns. Small (fine)
granulations burn faster and are used in small bore guns, where larger (coarser)
granulations, are used for larger bore guns & cannons... and for launching
Aerial Shells out of mortars. Using a finer granulation for these jobs puts too
much strain on the gun (or shell or mortar) because the powder burns much faster
and creates a fast pressure increase that could damage whatever you're trying to
launch, or the gun/mortar itself. Coarser, granulated Black Powder that is used
in mortars to launch shells, or in Roman Candles to shoot out stars, is
sometimes called "Lift Powder". When Black Powder isn't granulated, and is in a
super fine powder state (similar to that of Talcum Powder) it is called "Meal
Powder". Just to confuse things even more, any granulated Black Powder is also
sometimes called "Grain Powder".

Smokeless Powder is not to be confused with Black Powder. It is actually
Nitrocellulose, and cannot be used in place of Black Powder.

Now, why they needed 5 names to describe one substance is beyond us, but just
keep in mind that Black Powder, Gun Powder, Lift Powder, Grain Powder, and Meal
Powder are basically all the same material. As far as fireworks are concerned,
Black Powder is used both in its finely powdered form (Meal Powder) for coating
starts and for mixing in other pyrotechnic formulas, and in its granulated form
(Lift Powder) for launching shells out of a mortar, or stars out of a Roman
Candle.

The formula for Black Powder is 75% Potassium Nitrate, 15% Charcoal, and 10%
Sulfur... and like all chemical formulas, it is measured by weight only.

However, you just can't mix these chemicals together and expect to have Black
Powder. The mixing process for Black Powder is just as important as the formula.
Black Powder *MUST* be made in a Ball Mill to work properly. A Ball Mill is a
rotating drum with dozens of lead balls inside. The 3 chemicals are loaded into
the Ball Mill, along with the lead balls, sealed shut and allowed to rotate for
anywhere between 1 hour and 24 hours. As the Ball Mill rotates, the lead balls
will crush the chemicals together, forcing some of the Potassium Nitrate into
the pores of the Charcoal and Sulfur. At the same time, the entire mass will be
reduced to a super fine powder. The longer the Ball Mill runs, the stronger the
Black Powder will be. A general rule of thumb for all pyrotechnic mixtures is "
the finer the powder is, the faster it will burn ". *ONLY* lead balls can be
used in a Ball Mill as they are completely non-sparking. *ONLY* Black Powder can
be mixed in a Ball Mill. Other pyrotechnic mixtures such as Flash Powder, etc.
*CAN NOT*, as they are too sensitive and will explode. Individual chemicals
however, can also be Ball Milled into a fine powder, but the mill must be
cleaned before this is done. If you are a do-it-yourself type of person, you can
build your own Ball Mill. For those that don't want to go through the hassle of
building one from scratch, Ball Mills, complete with hardened lead balls are
available from us. They can be found by Clicking Here <mills.htm>.

Once the mill has run for a while, it can be opened and the lead balls separated
from the fine Meal Powder. As we'll show you below, this Meal Powder can now be
used to make all the other forms of Black Powder for use in fireworks.

Black Powder vs. Flash Powder

A lot of people ask which is stronger, Black Powder or Flash Powder... or if
Black Powder can be used in Salutes (exploding fireworks). In short, there is no
comparison. Flash Powder is a high explosive, a shattering explosive. It
converts to a gas so fast, that objects near it, and containers that hold it
cannot move out of they way (or vent) fast enough to release this gas, so they
are destroyed into fragments. Black Powder is a low explosive, a heaving
explosive. It converts to gas much more slowly than Flash Powder, and generally
pushes things as opposed to fragmenting them. If Black Powder is used in a small
Salute like an M-80, it will just make a loud "pop", and push out the end plugs.
Flash Powder in an M-80 will make a loud explosion and fragment the tube into
small pieces. Flash Powder burns so much faster than Black Powder that in larger
Salutes, it doesn't even matter if you've got end plugs on the tube at all, it
will still detonate and fragment the Salute, even with 2 open ends. You can
*NEVER* substitute Flash Powder for Black Powder or vice-versa. If you were to
use Flash Powder to launch a shell out of a tube, or a bullet out of a gun, it
would barely move the shell or bullet, and completely destroy the mortar or gun,
most probably injuring the operator.

Manufacture

You will need 3 chemicals to make Black Powder, they are: Potassium Nitrate,
Sulfur and Charcoal. Stay away from very low grade materials like "Dusting
Sulfur" and Bar-B-Que Charcoal Briquettes. The Charcoal you use in a BBQ is not
pure Charcoal. It contains other materials and chemicals that are designed to
keep the material burning evenly and for a long time, but it will make lousy
Black Powder. If you use low quality chemicals, you will undoubtedly get low
quality Black Powder. All chemicals necessary to make Black Powder can be found
on our Chemical & Metals <chem.htm> supply page. The following is the standard
formula for Black Powder:

*Black Powder*

*Potassium Nitrate* *150 grams*

*Charcoal Powder* *30 grams*

*Sulfur* *20 grams*

Open the lid to your Ball Mill and add the following: 150 grams of Potassium
Nitrate, 30 grams of Charcoal Powder, and 20 grams of Sulfur ( if your lead
balls are not already in the tumbling barrel, go ahead and put them in now ).
Remember that *ONLY* lead balls can be used because they are completely non-
sparking. When complete, this will make 200 grams of Black Powder ( a little
under 1/2 pound ). You can make larger or smaller batches, just keep the
percentages of all the chemicals the same. You *MUST* use an accurate scale to
weigh your chemicals, preferably one that is accurate to 1/10th of a gram. If
you do not have access to an accurate scale, you can find some for sale on our
site here <scales.htm>.

With all 3 chemicals and the lead balls inside, put the lid on the tumbling
barrel and seal it, then set it in the Mill. Turn on your Ball Mill and let it
rotate for 2 to 4 hours. As the Ball Mill rotates, the lead balls will crush the
chemicals together and reduce them into a super fine powder. The longer you let
it grind, the stronger your Black Powder will be. Let the Ball Mill do its
grinding in an uninhabited area, not in a place like your bedroom. Although the
chance of accidental ignition is very remote, it is wise to put your mill in the
garage, or better yet, outside to do its work.

At the end of a couple of hours stop the mill. Lay out a sheet of paper (
newspaper will work fine ). Open the lid to the barrel, and dump the entire
contents ( lead balls and all ) into a spaghetti strainer over your sheet of
paper. The strainer will catch the lead balls and with a little shaking, all the
Black Powder will filter through onto your paper sheet. When Black Powder is in
a fine "dust-like" state like this, it is called "Meal Powder". The Meal Powder
you just made can now be used as-is in a variety of formulas and projects. By
adding a little water and Dextrin to it, you can easily make Black Match Fuse or
Quickmatch. See our section on making Black Match Fuse & Quickmatch
<experindex.htm>.

Lifting Powder

There are some applications where very fine Black Powder ( Meal Powder ) will
not work well. If you're going to use your Black Powder to launch shells out of
a mortar, or for small cannons, it will have to be granulated first. Black
Powder that is granulated and used for launching shells and salutes is called
"Lifting Powder". The procedure for making lifting powder is easy, but it
sometimes takes a few tries to get it perfect. Basically all we're going to do
is to add a little of a water soluble glue ( Dextrin ) to the Meal Powder, mix
it well, get it a little damp, and push it through the spaghetti strainer again.
This will produce small granules of Black Powder perfect for launching shells or
anything else. The whole trick to this is not to get the mixture too wet, or it
will become gooey and just turn into a big mess.

To convert your Meal Powder into Lifting Powder, take 100 grams of Meal Powder
and mix in 10 grams of dextrin. A good way to mix them is to put the mixture in
a plastic container with a snap-on lid and shake well. Pour the powder through
the spaghetti strainer again, this will break up any lumps in the dextrin.

Now place the Meal Powder/Dextrin mix back in your plastic container and add
just a little water. This is where experience really pays off. The idea here it
to get the mixture damp and not wet. What can be deceiving is that you're adding
water to a very fine powder, so it's going to take several minutes of mixing
just to get the powder to begin to absorb any water at all. Add just a little
water at a time, mixing thoroughly. As the powder begins to take in water, it
will turn a bit darker in color. You want the mixture to be damp enough to
where if you take a handful of it and squeeze it tightly, it will just begin
stick together. You do not want to get it too wet. If you do, it will not go
through the spaghetti strainer and will just clump up on the bottom, or not go
through the holes at all. If disaster strikes and you have added too much water,
you can always just add some plain Meal Powder to the mix to dry it out.

Just FYI, adding the water also increases the strength of the Black Powder by
allowing some of the Potassium Nitrate to dissolve and be absorbed into the
pores of the charcoal particles.

Once the mixture is damp, lay out another sheet of newspaper and dump the
mixture into the spaghetti strainer. Using a wooden or plastic spoon ( or your
hands if you don't mind getting messy ), rub the mixture through the screen
allowing the granules to fall onto the newspaper below. The Lift Powder you're
making will have to dry for a few days before it can be used, so make sure to
spread it around on the newspaper so it will dry more quickly.

If your mixture isn't all going through the screen, or is sticking on the
bottom, chances are it's too wet. Take the mixture out of the strainer and mix
in some plain dry Meal Powder and try again. If the mixture is going through
easily, but isn't really making granules, it might be a bit too dry. Take the
mixture out of the strainer and add a small amount of water, mix well and try
again.

Some tips to being safe.
Know your product,
Know what your products can do,
Know what can happen when you screw up.
 
Can someone tell me about the collection of nitrates? I remember they went to the necessaries (toilets) during the Revolution and scraped off the white stuff on the edges (bleah) and during the Civil War the Southern belles were encouraged to save the contents of the chamber pot for the war effort.
 
SG - My apologies, sir. I owe you one hot cup of java. Would a fine single malt scotch or irish do in a pinch?

Mykeal a pint a New Castles or more with ya would do jus' fine ....thanks for your kind offer.
What was I thinkin' drinkin' coffee and readin' in here anyway?
:O)
 
Bird or sometimes Bat Urates were the best source of BP making Nitrates traditionally...the Avian Urates were historically those of Sea Birds, and, were found in deep deposits on Islands, or arid rocky Shores, or, Caves if from Bats.


The U.S. Government still holds Title to many 'Guano Isands' and has since the early 1800s or earlier.


Bird Urates ( the 'White' component of Bird droppings ) are already highly concentrated when made.


People Urates ( and not poop,) also contain Nitrates which can be evaporated out and purified, which ( collecting Urine only,) is what the Chamber Pot and Outhouse collections were about in the Revolutionary time frame, and, for the Confederacy, during the War of Federal Aggression time.
 
Last edited:
Thanks Oyeboten. Glad to hear it's the urine and not the feces. How someone would want to go down a necessary (18th century term for outhouse) to fetch nitrate scrapings escapes me. I can see chamber pots collections being taken up and driven through town to the person running the cottage industry. Pee for your rights. Pee for freedom! Somehow, that doesn't quite sound right.
 
Eeeeeeesh...yeah...and, it'd take a lot of 'scrapings' to add up to much material, anyway...


Far easier to just have a Dovecote or Pigeon Loft ( and many people did )...better Nitrates too.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top