couple of ruger questions...

[SkaerE]

ok, i have a few.

1.) how do the SP101 and the GP100 compare in size to the Smith frames? is the SP101 bigger or smaller than a J frame? the GP100 bigger or smaller than a K frame? than an L frame?

2.) are the SP101 and GP100 "round butt" or "square butt" (i know, they are "Ruger butt" and probably not either, but closer to which? i see very few Rugers with aftermarket grips) i love a good round butted revolver grip (like on the Smith 65LS) and wonder if you can get these for Rugers.

3.) will the small grip from the smaller GP100 (3'') fit the longer barreled ones? (ie, do they have the same frame size under the grip)

i know i have at least one more, but cant think of it right now.

i'll be back later though im sure.

thanks

 

[BlkHawk73]

1) not sure. I'm unfamiliar with the S&W frame designations/sizes.

2) Ruger Dble Actions don't really have a "butt" on the gripframe. The rubber grip completely encompasses the inner structure which is only to accomodate the hammer spring and not for framing the gripframe. There are aftermarket grips avail. for both the GP and SP series in both rubber and wood (hogue). I still prefer mine with factory grips. Lett Grips (www.lettgrips.com) also has a variety of inserts avail. for the factory grips.

3) All the frames of the GP series are the same. A grip from a 3" GP will foit any other GP model. Same for the SP series. However, a grip from a GP model will not fit a SP series model - and vise versa.

As a side note, a few uncataloged items have been made of these two series for different distributors. A few in the Ruger "target grey" and another in a 5" bbl version of the GP100.

 

[RWK]

In my opinion the following list applies from largest to smallest (these are general conclusions; for example, I am not attempting to compare the mass of a six-inch GP100 versus a 3.5 inch N Frame):

S&W N Frame
Ruger GP100
S&W L Frame
Ruger SP101
S&W K Frame
S&W J Frame

 

[Jim March]

On question 3, yes. It's the same "post" under there...all GPs are the same, and for that matter the SuperRedHawk grip "post" is the same as the GP100. All the parts to switch from the large Ruger grip to the smaller are available at Lett grips; prices for the complete set (rubber core plus two insert panels) start at $40, more for exotic panels. The smaller setup is similar to the SP101 grip but not compatible.

The Ruger GP100 and L-Frame S&W are pretty close. The Ruger might be a "hair" bigger but it really isn't much bigger.

It's the SP101 that's a lot "clunkier" than it's equivelent, the J-Frame S&W 357s. A steel S&W 357 J-Frame is around 21/22oz, the SP101s start at 26/27, doesn't sound like much but given how most people carry snubs, it adds up fast. BUT, if you really want to shoot full-house 357, the comfort factor between the two (in favor of the Ruger) is significant. On all the current-production Ruger DAs 'cept the Redhawk, the "grip frame" is this tiny little skinny post which is surrounded by a massive amount of rubber, the overall cushioning effect is wonderful. Just a GREAT design. You can still do all-wood if you want, no problem, but if you're gonna do rubber, this is the way to go.

 

[SkaerE]

is the SP101 built more for the 357 than S&W K frames are? (ie, built to carry 357's but not really practice with them much)

from what i read the GP100 will stand up to constant 357's, but how does the SP101 do durability wise?

the SP101 is closer to K frame size then J frame then?

thanks for the good info guys, i just need to find a good shop close to me to get my hands on some of these revolvers...

 

[Jim March]

Nobody really knows how much heavy 357 fodder an SP101 will take, as nobody's managed to break one that way.



I'm serious. The SP101 is a very tough gun, probably tougher than a K-frame, but it's also just BELOW the size range where a steady diet of full-house 125s are comfortable enough to shoot a lot of. The K-Frames like the 19s and 66s are just barely AT that point. And as they were common police issue circa 1970s, they ate a lot of hot 125s as those became popular and got tore up.

The SP101s have not been issued as primary duty weapons very often, they've gone to regular folks and been used as police backup. So we haven't seen 'em given the abuse those old Ks were.

Upshot: don't worry about the SP101's strength. Come to think, I've never even heard of one being shot loose.

What else...depending on your planned carry method, get the 3" barrel in my opinion.

* Ballistics are better;

* It actually balances better on the hip for both outside and inside waistband carry;

* You'll get better ammo performance from heavy loads if you ever need a concealed carry bare-minimum cougar/black bear defense gun in a no-guns woods area of the lower 48. That situation is sadly all too common.

You need the 2" only for pocket carry (with bobbed hammer) or maybe ankle carry. Anything else, belt, IWB, shoulder, fanny pack, 3" is fine. Since they don't make a factory 3" bobbed-hammer gun, if you want that you'll have to lop the hammer yourself but on a Ruger that's particularly easy...other than the hammer spur, the casting is otherwise the same between the two hammers and since it's the same metal at the same hardness all the way through with no refinishing...it's a breeze.

 

[Jim March]

Final point: the SP101 is halfway between the size of the 357 J-frame and 357 K. It eats out of J-frame speedloaders. It also has a second lockup point at the crane that no S&W had since the old "Triple Lock" and now the X-frame (the new 500!) and the amount of SP frame metal is closer to K-Frame spec, while the grip is down in J territory and the cylinder is a slightly oversize J-size part.

It's really a slick compromize size and wonderul design.

All DA Rugers also lack side-plates. The grip frame is a separate part that forks up into the back of the primary frame and contains the action; this is borrowed off of the 1873 Colt(!) by way of the Ruger SA designs which predate their DAs. This lack of sideplates means nothing can "blow out".

All Ruger revolvers, once finally pushed past their limits and the cylinder blows up, don't tend to shed any other parts. Most S&Ws will spit the sideplate and/or pieces of topstrap/rear sight in all directions, adding to the disaster. Ruger topstraps bend before they break, in fact I've examined some blown-up Ruger SAs used in psycho handloading and all the topstraps held, ditto in all the pictures I've seen. (Strong as they are, used Blackhawks and the like are dirt cheap and idiots think there's no limit...so they seem to get more abuse.) Rugers throw out fewer pieces in a K-boom, and throw them sideways only.

 

[tomkatz]

A little sidenote, though nobody asked, is I have a galco holster for my short barrel sp101 that said on the original package, "fits colt detective special and ruger sp101 2.25 in. barrel", and it fits my sp101 and my friends dick special like a glove.....tom