Crane-to-frame fit on S&W 686?

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TestedTwice

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So I just picked up a new Smith and Wesson 686. I love it, but I’m a little concerned about the crane-to-frame fit. There appears to be a slight gap and it looks like it’s very slightly misaligned. Does this look problematic, or is this just a cosmetic issue, or does it look fine? I’m a little worried that the crane is bent or something of the like. The gap isn’t huge, but I’ve seen revolvers with a more flush fit. Here’s a link to a picture.

https://imgur.com/a/7vk3NIW
 
So I just picked up a new Smith and Wesson 686. I love it, but I’m a little concerned about the crane-to-frame fit. There appears to be a slight gap and it looks like it’s very slightly misaligned. Does this look problematic, or is this just a cosmetic issue, or does it look fine? I’m a little worried that the crane is bent or something of the like. The gap isn’t huge, but I’ve seen revolvers with a more flush fit. Here’s a link to a picture.

https://imgur.com/a/7vk3NIW
That appears to be an older 6-shot 686 which locks up at the end of the rod. Does it have any binding if the rod is fully depressed? Also check for endshake and the barrel/ cylider gap on both sides.
 
That appears to be an older 6-shot 686 which locks up at the end of the rod. Does it have any binding if the rod is fully depressed? Also check for endshake and the barrel/ cylider gap on both sides.
I apologize for my ignorance, but could you explain further as to what you mean? Binding if the rod is fully depressed? Endshake? Sorry for my noobiness; I’m pretty new to revlovers.
 
No. That gap seems fine to me. I’d venture most of my Smiths are fitted like that or even more gap.

At the old S&W armorers school, you got told not to fit up a gun too tight.

A little play in the parts was considered normal and preferable. Reliability is more important than absolute adherence to tolerances.

It’s got to work if a few flakes of unburied powder find their way into parts. If it hasn’t been cleaned in a few years, if a little dirt, cookie crumbs, whatever, find their way into the holster.
 
Thats a heck of alot better than the last two Ruger revolvers , one a GP100 & SP101 .. Which both are gone ...
 
I Googled crane to frame fit and found several images and archived S&W post .
 
To the OP: you've got to be kidding, right? Just pulling our leg? For a new/current production revolver of any make (except Freedom) what you are showing is quite acceptable. But wait: Freedom doesn't make DA.
 
Here is the crane to frame fit in my model 64.

Seriously, I don’t think you have a thing to worry about.

58BF1829-8094-4249-92E3-C5D2DC85E609.png
 
TestedTwice

To my untrained eye your cylinder crane does not appear to be out of alignment with the frame. This is the best head on photo I have of my Model 686 no dash and it looks pretty much like your gun, which is to say perfectly normal. I also consider my Model 686 to be one of the best built S&W revolvers I have ever owned. Do the revolver check-out as per NIGHTLORD40K's suggestion and get yourself (and your Model 686), to the range to see how it does!

7gdgU9i.jpg
 
Howdy

The key is, how does it shoot.

I bought a Model 686-6 brand-spanky new in 2015. First brand new S&W I had bought in 40 years.

When I took it to the range, I had to crank the rear sight all the way over to the right to get the bullet to strike where the sights were pointing. That is not right. With good trigger technique, the bullets should hit where the sights are pointing when the rear sight is centered. It should not have to be shoved way over to one side. This rear sight is shoved over about as far as it will go.

rear%20sight_zpsfdj69e6g.jpg




Then I took a closer look at the front of the gun. Notice how the gap gets wider at the top than at the bottom. That is not right. The barrel is canted slightly and does not allow the yoke ( the hinged part) to close all the way.

flaw%20crane%20cosure_zpsp2zfelca.jpg




Yours does not appear quite this bad. The gap where your yoke (that's what S&W calls the crane) on yours is even from top to bottom.



This is what the fit of the yoke to the frame is supposed to look like. A perfect fit with no gap at all. Unfortunately S&W quality has gone down in recent years and you will never see a yoke fitted like this again. What sneaks out of the factory today, would never have made it past the inspectors in the old days. ( This 32-20 Hand Ejector left the factory in 1916.)

32-20%20HE%20yoke_zpsegaxf4lr.jpg




Bottom line, if you don't have to shove the rear sight way over to one side, it is probably fine.

Don't forget, you need good trigger technique to shoot a handgun properly. You should be pulling the trigger in single action with the pad of your trigger finger. Don't place the trigger in the crease under the first joint. That may feel more natural, but pulling the trigger that way will often cause a right handed shooter to push the bullets to the left. That's why so many used revolvers with adjustable sights have the rear sight adjusted over to the right.

Bottom line, if you don't have to shove the rear sight way over to one side, the fit is probably acceptable.
 
Howdy

The key is, how does it shoot.

I bought a Model 686-6 brand-spanky new in 2015. First brand new S&W I had bought in 40 years.

When I took it to the range, I had to crank the rear sight all the way over to the right to get the bullet to strike where the sights were pointing. That is not right. With good trigger technique, the bullets should hit where the sights are pointing when the rear sight is centered. It should not have to be shoved way over to one side. This rear sight is shoved over about as far as it will go.

Then I took a closer look at the front of the gun. Notice how the gap gets wider at the top than at the bottom. That is not right. The barrel is canted slightly and does not allow the yoke ( the hinged part) to close all the way.

Yours does not appear quite this bad. The gap where your yoke (that's what S&W calls the crane) on yours is even from top to bottom.

This is what the fit of the yoke to the frame is supposed to look like. A perfect fit with no gap at all. Unfortunately S&W quality has gone down in recent years and you will never see a yoke fitted like this again. What sneaks out of the factory today, would never have made it past the inspectors in the old days. ( This 32-20 Hand Ejector left the factory in 1916.)

Bottom line, if you don't have to shove the rear sight way over to one side, it is probably fine.

Don't forget, you need good trigger technique to shoot a handgun properly. You should be pulling the trigger in single action with the pad of your trigger finger. Don't place the trigger in the crease under the first joint. That may feel more natural, but pulling the trigger that way will often cause a right handed shooter to push the bullets to the left. That's why so many used revolvers with adjustable sights have the rear sight adjusted over to the right.

Bottom line, if you don't have to shove the rear sight way over to one side, the fit is probably acceptable.

I thought I responded to this, but I guess I didn’t. I meant to post this photo, but I forgot to do so. I noticed that the crane is a little further in than the frame on the fit. This photo kind of emphasizes it, so take that into consideration. I can’t feel it with my finger tips, but my nail can catch on it. The frame side of the gap definitely comes out a tad bit further than the crane side.

https://imgur.com/a/0NEzyVJ
 
TestedTwice

To my untrained eye your cylinder crane does not appear to be out of alignment with the frame. This is the best head on photo I have of my Model 686 no dash and it looks pretty much like your gun, which is to say perfectly normal. I also consider my Model 686 to be one of the best built S&W revolvers I have ever owned. Do the revolver check-out as per NIGHTLORD40K's suggestion and get yourself (and your Model 686), to the range to see how it does!

View attachment 823346
Sweet S&W 686 Revolver.
 
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