WayneConrad
Member
In another thread, I asked DaveInFloweryBranchGA how I might make two presses coexists on the same bench. He suggested mounting each press to a strong-mount which would in turn be bolted or clamped to the bench allowing for quick removal.
His strong mount looks pretty nice. Nice enough that it shouldn't be buried in the middle of a drifting thread. So here it is again, with Dave's permission, and with the pictures Dave emailed me. Thanks, Dave.
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"We've exchanged PM's about the progressive press I want to buy just as soon as I figure out how to pay for it. What is your opinion on how to make a progressive and a single-stage coeexist happily on the same 24"x60" bench? Right now, my single-stage is a foot from the right edge of my bench, but it can move. I also want to leave at least a few feet of the middle of the bench open... it's my gun cleaning bench as well, so I can't cover the whole front of it with presses. Any ideas?"
This is an easy one. First, depending on the height you built your bench, you can build a "strong mount" for each press using hardwood (I used some scrap 3/4" oak I had.), glue and screws. You cut the base of the "strong mount" long enough to provide stability (about a foot and half) and you'll have enough length to clamp the press to the bench. Make the height of the strong mount tall enough so the linkage of the press ram clears the top of the bench or the floor when the press is removed from the table. Make the width wide enough to support the press, but narrow enough to clear the arm.
Construction notes:
1. Use butt joints (unless you have the machinery to cut dadoes, then use dado joints). It will be plenty strong enough with butt joints.
2. Drill holes and countersink so you don't split the wood and so the screws are out of the way. Looks better too.
3. Glue and screw top, bottom and sides together forming a box with the bottom forming an inverted T.
4. Using another piece of board, reinforce the back attaching it the same way, but cut an angle (on the support board) from the sides to the bottom to make it look more elegant.
5. Drill holes for bolt mounting in the bottom ends and the top (use the press as a template) for the press.
You can now bolt (Or clamp for quick removal. I prefer to bolt.) the two "strong mounts" to each each of your bench and have plenty of room to work. Be sure to leave some space from the sides and ends of the bench to place plastic Akro bins of brass and bullets. There should be enough space between the strong mounts for books, pens, assorted widjets. You now have removeable mounts that won't interfer with one another. If you use wide enough boards, you can actually mount two presses back to back, as I did when I had my Hornady LnL and a Lyman turret press mounted to a steel cart topped with oak plywood in my old apartment.
Hope this makes sense. IF it doesn't, pm me an email addy and I'll send you a picture. I am not known for posting pics online, though I don't object to others posting any they've received from me.
Regards,
Dave
His strong mount looks pretty nice. Nice enough that it shouldn't be buried in the middle of a drifting thread. So here it is again, with Dave's permission, and with the pictures Dave emailed me. Thanks, Dave.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
"We've exchanged PM's about the progressive press I want to buy just as soon as I figure out how to pay for it. What is your opinion on how to make a progressive and a single-stage coeexist happily on the same 24"x60" bench? Right now, my single-stage is a foot from the right edge of my bench, but it can move. I also want to leave at least a few feet of the middle of the bench open... it's my gun cleaning bench as well, so I can't cover the whole front of it with presses. Any ideas?"
This is an easy one. First, depending on the height you built your bench, you can build a "strong mount" for each press using hardwood (I used some scrap 3/4" oak I had.), glue and screws. You cut the base of the "strong mount" long enough to provide stability (about a foot and half) and you'll have enough length to clamp the press to the bench. Make the height of the strong mount tall enough so the linkage of the press ram clears the top of the bench or the floor when the press is removed from the table. Make the width wide enough to support the press, but narrow enough to clear the arm.
Construction notes:
1. Use butt joints (unless you have the machinery to cut dadoes, then use dado joints). It will be plenty strong enough with butt joints.
2. Drill holes and countersink so you don't split the wood and so the screws are out of the way. Looks better too.
3. Glue and screw top, bottom and sides together forming a box with the bottom forming an inverted T.
4. Using another piece of board, reinforce the back attaching it the same way, but cut an angle (on the support board) from the sides to the bottom to make it look more elegant.
5. Drill holes for bolt mounting in the bottom ends and the top (use the press as a template) for the press.
You can now bolt (Or clamp for quick removal. I prefer to bolt.) the two "strong mounts" to each each of your bench and have plenty of room to work. Be sure to leave some space from the sides and ends of the bench to place plastic Akro bins of brass and bullets. There should be enough space between the strong mounts for books, pens, assorted widjets. You now have removeable mounts that won't interfer with one another. If you use wide enough boards, you can actually mount two presses back to back, as I did when I had my Hornady LnL and a Lyman turret press mounted to a steel cart topped with oak plywood in my old apartment.
Hope this makes sense. IF it doesn't, pm me an email addy and I'll send you a picture. I am not known for posting pics online, though I don't object to others posting any they've received from me.
Regards,
Dave