Desert Eagle Ammo
- Thread starter D'eagle
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Well from the little I know about the Desert Eagle from a friend who owns one, you have to replace the recoil springs in them fairly frequently. The word "jam" is fairly generic when describing a failure. What folks around here would need to know to diagnose the problem is whether or not this "jam" is a failure to feed (FTF) or a failure to eject (FTE). Other pertainate info might include how often it fails, when it fails (one round per mag, every round in the mag, etc.), does it happen with only one magazine or all of your magazines, or stuff like does the slide go fully into battery (close all the way) when it chambers the rounds. I'm sure if some or all of those questions are answered, someone can make an educated guess as to what is causing the pistol to malfunction. If you have tried all different kinds of ammunition from different manufacturers, tell us which ones. They may all be crappy, but not likely. 
It may not be an ammunition problem afterall.
It may not be an ammunition problem afterall.The Lone Haranguer
Member
It is only meant to be used with full power (i.e., loaded to full spec for the cartridge, no reduced or "medium velocity") loads using jacketed bullets. It is very difficult to get long, wide, rimmed, high pressure revolver cartridges to feed in an autoloading action under the best of circumstances, but if you are using ammo as spec'd above and the gun still consistently has stoppages, something is wrong with it.
10-Ring
Member
From what I've experienced, DE really like HOT -- REALLY HOT -- ammo to operate gas system & cycle the slide
The only relatively cheap bulk ammo I found to work worth a damn in mine was the Magtech JHP 240s.
And I concur with other posters, the hotter the better.
It's also a gun that is very sensitive to proper grip and technique - if you limp-wrist it, or hold it incorrectly, problems can start to pop up immediately.
That said, my old lady can shoot mine without issue and so can anyone who can comfortably hold it.
And I concur with other posters, the hotter the better.
It's also a gun that is very sensitive to proper grip and technique - if you limp-wrist it, or hold it incorrectly, problems can start to pop up immediately.
That said, my old lady can shoot mine without issue and so can anyone who can comfortably hold it.
Desert eagle
Thanks all, okay the issues pertain to misfeeds and failure to close fully. I've tried several clips the issues remain the same. I get at a minimum one failure per clip ie 7 rounds. I've used Double tap wad cutters, DT hardcast DT JSP, Fiocchi various, Prvi Partizan, Remington 165 JSP. I've read all about the limp wrist stuff and I use a strong triangulated grip. I'm also conscious of not forcing up on the clip. I keep my gun clean. Is there any lube one can use on the ammo it self so it may feed better? I've been told any extra lube in the gun will only alllow a build-up to collect from shooting.
Thanks all, okay the issues pertain to misfeeds and failure to close fully. I've tried several clips the issues remain the same. I get at a minimum one failure per clip ie 7 rounds. I've used Double tap wad cutters, DT hardcast DT JSP, Fiocchi various, Prvi Partizan, Remington 165 JSP. I've read all about the limp wrist stuff and I use a strong triangulated grip. I'm also conscious of not forcing up on the clip. I keep my gun clean. Is there any lube one can use on the ammo it self so it may feed better? I've been told any extra lube in the gun will only alllow a build-up to collect from shooting.
Madcap_Magician
Member
Well, the wadcutters right there will jam up ANY semiauto...
You're also using lightweight bullets, the 165s aren't going to cycle the thing with any reliability whatsoever I'd wager.
Go with the hottest 240gr you can find, JSP/JHP/FMJ.
Clean out your gas system. Replace the recoil springs.
Let someone else fire it, see if they have the same problems. Eliminate user error.
Replace magazine.
If that fails, contact Magnum Research.
Go with the hottest 240gr you can find, JSP/JHP/FMJ.
Clean out your gas system. Replace the recoil springs.
Let someone else fire it, see if they have the same problems. Eliminate user error.
Replace magazine.
If that fails, contact Magnum Research.
highorder
Member
Good question, simple answer:
Do NOT lubricate ammunition!
It can cause erratic performance and serious pressure issues.
I clean my gun after everytrip to the range. I use hopps 9 gun oil. I do see now that maybe I'm using to light a round. So I'll try and get some Hotter
300g stuff. Of course that's not easy either with the scarcity of ammo lately. I also let others at the Range try it and it's a little distrubing that it fails.
300g stuff. Of course that's not easy either with the scarcity of ammo lately. I also let others at the Range try it and it's a little distrubing that it fails.
dmazur
Member
I don't have experience with a DE, but I have a couple of Ruger .44 carbines and I know they are similarly finicky about ammo.
So, I thought I'd pass along a cautionary note. That is, due to the existence of Ruger revolvers (which is a good thing, to be sure), there is ammo available for them which is actually a little too long for the Ruger .44 carbine. It may be too long for your DE magazine as well.
I believe the "spec" length for a .44 Mag is 1.610", and the typical 240gr JSP is right around that length.
So, if you're looking at 300gr whatevers, you might measure them (or take along your DE magazine) to make sure they will fit. Still no guarantee they will feed, but it's one step closer to success...
Good luck. DE's are special. Sometimes I wish I had one.
So, I thought I'd pass along a cautionary note. That is, due to the existence of Ruger revolvers (which is a good thing, to be sure), there is ammo available for them which is actually a little too long for the Ruger .44 carbine. It may be too long for your DE magazine as well.
I believe the "spec" length for a .44 Mag is 1.610", and the typical 240gr JSP is right around that length.
So, if you're looking at 300gr whatevers, you might measure them (or take along your DE magazine) to make sure they will fit. Still no guarantee they will feed, but it's one step closer to success...
Good luck. DE's are special. Sometimes I wish I had one.
Stop using lead bullets.
Magnum Reasearch is very clear on this, do not use lead bullets period.
The DE gas system is easily fouled and there are areas you just can't scrub. I would urge you to get an owners manual and follow it closely.
I had the .357 Mark XIX and it had to be keept very clean to run. Full power jacketed ammo only.
Magnum Research goes so far as to recomend bullets with copper bases like JHP's and JSP's.
FMJ's and some bullets like the Nosler Partition have exposed lead at their bases. These will foul the gas operating system. Plain lead bullets will ruin the gas system if used too much.
I would recomend finding a good powder solvent, not a copper cleaner like Hoppe's #9, and soaking the barrel and cleaning the gas ports with pipe cleaners.
If you can get compressed air blowing through the gas system after cleaning, that helps.
Use Hoppe's sparingly only on the bore and never let Hoppe's or any other copper solvent soak in your DE.
The DE is sensitive to lube, and you have to follow MR's direction there.
Here's a link;
http://www.magnumresearch.com/manuals.asp
Magnum Reasearch is very clear on this, do not use lead bullets period.
The DE gas system is easily fouled and there are areas you just can't scrub. I would urge you to get an owners manual and follow it closely.
I had the .357 Mark XIX and it had to be keept very clean to run. Full power jacketed ammo only.
Magnum Research goes so far as to recomend bullets with copper bases like JHP's and JSP's.
FMJ's and some bullets like the Nosler Partition have exposed lead at their bases. These will foul the gas operating system. Plain lead bullets will ruin the gas system if used too much.
I would recomend finding a good powder solvent, not a copper cleaner like Hoppe's #9, and soaking the barrel and cleaning the gas ports with pipe cleaners.
If you can get compressed air blowing through the gas system after cleaning, that helps.
Use Hoppe's sparingly only on the bore and never let Hoppe's or any other copper solvent soak in your DE.
The DE is sensitive to lube, and you have to follow MR's direction there.
Here's a link;
http://www.magnumresearch.com/manuals.asp
From their FAQ's.
My Desert Eagle pistol will not chamber or my bolt does not close fully, why is this?
The first thing is being sure your pistol is unloaded. The main reason this may happen is your pistol is dirty and needs to be cleaned; a dirty pistol will affect the chambering, extraction and the overall performance of the gun. Inspect the chamber, clean it with a bore brush (we use a bronze brush) and solvent, and lightly oil it with a patch. Next the recoil spring assembly gets lead and carbon-fouled that it may not let the bolt shut. All you need to do with the recoil spring assembly is fieldstrip it and clean it, oil it, and be sure to properly assemble it. Use your 5-in-1 tool to remove the firing pin, remove the bolt assembly and inspect the bolt - basically just clean your bolt assembly, clean your firing pin, review your manual and reassemble the pistol.
Another problem is a lot of people that shoot wheel guns and different types of pistols have a tendency to limp-wrist. They have to in order to take up recoil of the gun itself. With the Desert Eagle pistol, you can't. You have to take a good two-handed grip to assure a clean, crisp snapping action of the slide forward and back. If you are limp-wristing, it takes ups the inertia of the slide, it won't come all the way back, and the action doesn't cycle properly.
What ammunition is recommended for use in my Desert Eagle pistol?
Remember that ammunition is very important with the Desert Eagle pistol. Defective ammunition will keep you from chambering. Check the type of ammunition you are using. If ammunition is underpowered it will not reliably cycle the action of your Desert Eagle. Shooting lead or full-metal jacket with an open lead base will not only foul the recoil spring assembly crosspiece and the rods, but it will also carbon and lead-foul the piston and solder it to the barrel. You should stay with good, semi-jacketed ammunition. We do suggest trying as many commercial, manufactured, semi-jacketed Magnum cartridges as possible and see which one works the best for you and your pistol.
http://www.magnumresearch.com/docs/DEP_Ammo_List.xls
My Desert Eagle pistol will not chamber or my bolt does not close fully, why is this?
The first thing is being sure your pistol is unloaded. The main reason this may happen is your pistol is dirty and needs to be cleaned; a dirty pistol will affect the chambering, extraction and the overall performance of the gun. Inspect the chamber, clean it with a bore brush (we use a bronze brush) and solvent, and lightly oil it with a patch. Next the recoil spring assembly gets lead and carbon-fouled that it may not let the bolt shut. All you need to do with the recoil spring assembly is fieldstrip it and clean it, oil it, and be sure to properly assemble it. Use your 5-in-1 tool to remove the firing pin, remove the bolt assembly and inspect the bolt - basically just clean your bolt assembly, clean your firing pin, review your manual and reassemble the pistol.
Another problem is a lot of people that shoot wheel guns and different types of pistols have a tendency to limp-wrist. They have to in order to take up recoil of the gun itself. With the Desert Eagle pistol, you can't. You have to take a good two-handed grip to assure a clean, crisp snapping action of the slide forward and back. If you are limp-wristing, it takes ups the inertia of the slide, it won't come all the way back, and the action doesn't cycle properly.
What ammunition is recommended for use in my Desert Eagle pistol?
Remember that ammunition is very important with the Desert Eagle pistol. Defective ammunition will keep you from chambering. Check the type of ammunition you are using. If ammunition is underpowered it will not reliably cycle the action of your Desert Eagle. Shooting lead or full-metal jacket with an open lead base will not only foul the recoil spring assembly crosspiece and the rods, but it will also carbon and lead-foul the piston and solder it to the barrel. You should stay with good, semi-jacketed ammunition. We do suggest trying as many commercial, manufactured, semi-jacketed Magnum cartridges as possible and see which one works the best for you and your pistol.
http://www.magnumresearch.com/docs/DEP_Ammo_List.xls
Ammo
thank you all for your input. After close review of the ammo chart I have been using some incorrect and some correct choices. I do believe that my lube has been inadequite. I'll try to correct this and see what happens. I recently used Remingtons gun oil spray with teflon and cycled the bullets manually and it seemed to function better. Perhaps the simplest fix is the right one. Happy shooting everyone and lets hope our ammo supply improves with out a huge price increase!
thank you all for your input. After close review of the ammo chart I have been using some incorrect and some correct choices. I do believe that my lube has been inadequite. I'll try to correct this and see what happens. I recently used Remingtons gun oil spray with teflon and cycled the bullets manually and it seemed to function better. Perhaps the simplest fix is the right one. Happy shooting everyone and lets hope our ammo supply improves with out a huge price increase!
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