Dillon 550 -VS- HornadyLnL

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Someone (empyrean?) mentioned that the Hornady had a benefit in that you could just change the metering insert when changing calibers vs. changing or resetting the powder measure on the Dillon. True, but you can also just change out pre-set powder measure bars on the Dillon measure as well. I have a 550, not the L-n-L (I pussed out and went blue a year ago since all my friends that load progressively use Dillon... built-in local support network). I haven't really gotten to where I'm happy w/ it for precision long range rifle, at least not running progressively. Even with short extruded powders like Varget, RE-15, & N-140 I'm not happy w/ the consistency of the measure. I'm probably either going to get a Hornady or RCBS powder measure + case activated powder drop and go that route. Either that or get a L-N-L for .223 Rem/9mm, the two calibers I load in volume.

YMMV,

Monte
 
I ran into this when I got into shotshell reloading, which set-up to get???, it's like this, get one and never look back. woulda'-coulda'-shoulda' never got a single piece of brass reloaded with bullet,powder and primer. BOTH machines work great, it really is a matter of personal preferance. I have hornady stuff, including a (now obsolete by hornady) APEX 3.1 w/gass assist. Was told it was a POS. NOT, that POS has loaded in excess of 10k rounds with steelshot. I was appaled at hornadys (un)support of this reloader, but it worked out fine and I still use it. I personally would get the Lee (pistol) and a rockchucker( rifles AND shotshells-dies are for sale) for starters. It will be awhile before you recover from the expense of all the bullets and powders you WILL buy. Saving $5 ain't worth it if you have to wait- using locally /readily available tools is so much better. For instance, I use snap-on tools at work, but home depot tools around the house ('cept the screwdrivers:rolleyes: ) because I can go get one replaced alot faster if needs be.
 
Wow talk about picking fly sh1t out of pepper! So the Hornady press requires a specialized (shorter) $14 die in station 5. Boy that is going to break the bank for those that don't want to grid an 1/8" of of their current die. When it comes to the total amount of money you have to outlay initially for either the 650 or the Hornady AP the small difference in price between the conversions is insignificant. It's like those people, yes I mean some of you, that buy $30K-$40K for trucks and SUV and then complain about the cost of the fuel to run it. Well my advice to you is don't buy it if you can't afford to run it. When I bought my Hornady AP I bought all the options for three calibers, added a low primer alarm, and a digital case counter and the total cost was only $90 less then the 650 set up the same way. So if you go with Dillon you have to buy a $70 conversion kit and a $21 toolhead, well if you buy a Hornady you may have to buy a $14 taper crimp die, but you do have to buy a $27 shell plate, $15 for bushings and maybe $9 for a powder die expander.

I really like my Hornady AP, but I would have been just as happy with the Dillon 650 they are both excellent presses. My real b1tch is the recent cost of components. My Nosler ballistic tips have went from $28 to $38 for 250; my primers went from $18 to $21 a 1,000. In the last two months I have spent over twice as much in components then what I spent on all my reloading equipment combined, now that is what we should be complaining about!:fire:
 
In the last two months I have spent over twice as much in components then what I spent on all my reloading equipment combined, now that is what we should be complaining about!

Yes it is
No matter what the price is for a press you will get the money back sooner or later. But when the componets gets expensive it will take longer if ever.

Is factory ammo going up to?
 
The price of factory ammo right now will give you a heart attack. I was going to buy myself some milsurp .223, shoot it as plinker, then reload. The 300 bucks a cases delivered kinda put a damper on that. Now I'm looking at ordering brass, bullets, etc. and reloading my own.

Dave
 
Idano, did you put a Dillon low primer alarm on your LnL??? I always wondered if that would work. And where did you find the digital round counter?? How did you install it??
If you have a picture that would rock!!!!

-thanks :)
 
Blue vs Red...

Ford vs Chevy...:banghead:


I'll stick with my old Dillon 450. I don't know that there's an equal that I can compare it to. That is, at times, comforting.

All this banter bout caliber conversion and the ease, or lack of ease with either brand/model. Fact is, when you're changing caliber, more often than not, you're gonna change powder too. So, with the presses that have interchangable tool heads, it's best that you set dies up, powder drop/case expander, specific on multiple tool heads. You don't have to. But if you don't, you're pulling the powder drop off anyway. What's one more adjustment or funnel change at that stage anyway? I read some of the ealier posts. Ya'll are knit-pickin this to death.

If you want ultimate in simplicity and convenience- IT'S GOING TO COST YOU!

Whether you're using a Dillon 550/650 or an LNL.

-Steve
 
Again, I have the LNL and the 550. I load all but one pistol cartridge on the LNL.

The use of a second crimp die is unnecessary in most cartridges when loading jacketed bullets. It is advantageous to seat lead or plated bullets, then add a crimp later. This prevents any lead shaving or pushing of the brass into the bullet, and greatly increases accuracy.

When loading lead on many of my lesser used pistol cartridges, I load them with only the tiniest bit of the bell showing. I then simply remove all dies and measures (takes 10 seconds) except the crimper. I turn up the seating stem to the top, and turn the die down to desired crimp, and run the batch. On my high volume loadings , I have a Lee FCD in station 5, which I ground down in 20 seconds to avoid the “wire”.
 
Someone (empyrean?) mentioned that the Hornady had a benefit in that you could just change the metering insert when changing calibers vs. changing or resetting the powder measure on the Dillon. True, but you can also just change out pre-set powder measure bars on the Dillon measure as well.

The hornady measure allows changing metering inserts without emptying the measure, and allows draining and changing powders without removing the measure from the press. Probably a minor difference when running long batches, but handy when running several different rifle loads for the same caliber. That to me seems a big strength of the LNL; changing powders, charges, bullet seaters, or between neck, full length, partial full length, body-only, or small base sizing, and rattling off a bunch of each.

Andy
 
"The hornady measure allows changing metering inserts without emptying the measure, and allows draining and changing powders without removing the measure from the press."

I'll have to admit, that would be a nice feature.

I guess, I don't understand something- And maybe I should start another thread , Not to hijack this one, asking, How often do you change caliber through reloading sessions?

I mean, outside the winter months, I shoot pretty regularly, (I should be reloading more during the winter stocking up for Spring and Summer!), But I'll reload a bunch of one caliber. Not like 45acp on Monday, and .357mag on Wednesday, and .44mag on Friday. But more like one caliber all week. My .45acp dies have been on my D450 for four months.

I don't own a 9mm any more. Never did like the .40.

-Steve
 
Idano, did you put a Dillon low primer alarm on your LnL???

Plastic Cowboy

Actually, I have the RCBS low primer alarm that my friend bought for me on eBay for $6, but it is made by the same people that build the one for Dillon. The Dillon will fit on the primer tube perfectly with no modification.

I keep count by counting the primer trays 1 tray = 100 rounds.
Why would one want a digital counter????

Master Blaster

I use the counter on two occasions. First I always deprime, resize clean the primer pockets, and inspect all my brass separately before reloading. The counter helps keep track of how much brass I loose during a night of shooting since I clean and prep 100 -200 cases two nights of week Secondly, I always check my powder drop every 25 rounds just to ensure that everything is correct. Granted these two steps may be deemed not necessary by many loaders, but I was trained old school.

The Hornady measure allows changing metering inserts without emptying the measure, and allows draining and changing powders without removing the measure from the press.

BigJakeJ1s

This is something I just found out the last few days reading this post and the other one on the Hornady L-N-L . Until now I thought the benefit of the L-N-L busings was the removal of the powder measure for dumping out the powder, learn something new every day. If I ever use my Hornady powder measure I am going to give it a try. See I have been using a RCBS Uniflow with RCBS CAPD I originally bought for my Lee LoadMaster that the Hornady AP replaced. I have the Uniflow setup for pistol with the small rotor and with a powder baffle it doesn't even toggle my digital scale 0.1 gr from drop to drop with spherical or ball powder and only occasionally toggle my digital scale 0.1 gr from drop to drop with flake powders. Until I start loading something that requires more then 40 grs the Hornady Powder measure is just sitting up on the shelf, but it is ready to go and has it's own powder baffle. I do say I like the the way Hornady designed the removal of the micrometer with just a button I just wish they would have anodized the drum and micrometer.

How often do you change caliber through reloading sessions?

JackOfAllTradesMasterAtNone

I personally change calibers twice a night two times a week. I shoot between 100 and 200 rounds between my .40 S&W and my 9mm a night twice a week. While I am cleaning my guns I tumble the brass which takes about 2 hours, usually have a Ruger MKII to clean too. When I am done cleaning guns restocking ammo in my range bag I deprime, resize, and clean the primer pockets of both calibers before I call it a night. When I do reload I use a universal decapping die just to be safe make sure there isn't any media in the flash hole. Looks like gun preference we are just opposite, I dumped my 1911 for my Beretta 92FS, however I did keep my 1917 S&W but I don't shoot it anymore. My preference is my Colt Anaconda I group it tighter then any auto I have ever owned or shot.
 
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