DIY Portable Target Stand
- Thread starter *NOVA*
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I had to build my own several years ago when the gun club I shoot at stopped providing target boards. I did H-frame wood ones (from 2x4s) initially, but got tired of lugging them back and forth. I ended up using spiral fishing rod holders and 1x2's. The 1x2's have to be cut down at the bottom to fit the spiral, but I've been using the same 1x2's for years. Just staple cardboard to the uprights. If your ground is soft enough to push spikes down into, these are as cheap/portable as it gets.
Mine are simple, I salvage the materials from construction sites. I can make these to any width and height depending on the material scrounged 
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*NOVA*
Member
That's what I like about these forums! The easiest, cheapest solution - great idea!I had to build my own several years ago when the gun club I shoot at stopped providing target boards. I did H-frame wood ones (from 2x4s) initially, but got tired of lugging them back and forth. I ended up using spiral fishing rod holders and 1x2's. The 1x2's have to be cut down at the bottom to fit the spiral, but I've been using the same 1x2's for years. Just staple cardboard to the uprights. If your ground is soft enough to push spikes down into, these are as cheap/portable as it gets.
jmorris
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I built this one that uses 1x2's and you can make it just about any size you want. Also use 1x2's for the feet to make it so wind can't blow it over if you have hard ground.
It's at 300 yds in this photo 3 ft tall and 6 ft wide with half a dozen targets on it. In conjunction with a spotting scope, saves trips down range.
The other stands are one piece but they do nest so they stack well.
It's at 300 yds in this photo 3 ft tall and 6 ft wide with half a dozen targets on it. In conjunction with a spotting scope, saves trips down range.
The other stands are one piece but they do nest so they stack well.
243winxb
Member
I wish more shooters would bring there own target holders for use at 7 yards. They walk up to the target holders at 25 yds & I cant shoot. Nice holders.
Fella's;
I've built several of my own design, and they're permanent. I use 3/8" rebar, though if I were to build another it'd probably be 1/2", and have it bent into a flat-bottom U two feet in width. The legs extend down as far as you want, buy the rebar to length, about 12 feet in most cases I'd think. Acquire 6 feet of 2" heavy angle iron, cut into two 3' lengths, & bore holes a sixteenth larger than rebar diameter in both pieces 2 feet apart.
To assemble, put the upper angle iron with the lip up into the U, weld to legs, & you should have a 2-foot square target frame. At the bottom weld the angle iron lip down about 8" from the bottom of the legs. The lower stiffens the legs & provides a pair of pounding points should the ground be hard.
Common office bulldog clips then retain the cardboard background material to the frame & staple the target to the cardboard. These can withstand some rifle round hits & most common pistol round hits. If the legs are long, they can be a PIA to lug around, but they aren't heavy, just cumbersome. I'm fortunate enough to have my own range & just drive them out to distance in the pickup & set them up. Most of the time the 3/8" rod can just be stomped in with foot pressure, but when the ground is dry, half-inch legs are better for hammering them in. The heavier duty the angle iron is, the better for two reasons. One, if it's hit by a bullet it doesn't deform as much. And two, if you do have to pound the target in, the beefier angle iron holds up better.
Why 12' of rebar? Because two feet at the top of the frame leaves two 5-foot legs. The bottom of the frame, 2-foot square remember, then leaves the legs three feet long below the frame square. That's a good overall height in most cases.
900F
I've built several of my own design, and they're permanent. I use 3/8" rebar, though if I were to build another it'd probably be 1/2", and have it bent into a flat-bottom U two feet in width. The legs extend down as far as you want, buy the rebar to length, about 12 feet in most cases I'd think. Acquire 6 feet of 2" heavy angle iron, cut into two 3' lengths, & bore holes a sixteenth larger than rebar diameter in both pieces 2 feet apart.
To assemble, put the upper angle iron with the lip up into the U, weld to legs, & you should have a 2-foot square target frame. At the bottom weld the angle iron lip down about 8" from the bottom of the legs. The lower stiffens the legs & provides a pair of pounding points should the ground be hard.
Common office bulldog clips then retain the cardboard background material to the frame & staple the target to the cardboard. These can withstand some rifle round hits & most common pistol round hits. If the legs are long, they can be a PIA to lug around, but they aren't heavy, just cumbersome. I'm fortunate enough to have my own range & just drive them out to distance in the pickup & set them up. Most of the time the 3/8" rod can just be stomped in with foot pressure, but when the ground is dry, half-inch legs are better for hammering them in. The heavier duty the angle iron is, the better for two reasons. One, if it's hit by a bullet it doesn't deform as much. And two, if you do have to pound the target in, the beefier angle iron holds up better.
Why 12' of rebar? Because two feet at the top of the frame leaves two 5-foot legs. The bottom of the frame, 2-foot square remember, then leaves the legs three feet long below the frame square. That's a good overall height in most cases.
900F
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rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Those steel Real Estate and Campaign signs work for me!
Just replace the add with cardboard or thin plywood and stick them in the ground.
rc
Just replace the add with cardboard or thin plywood and stick them in the ground.
rc
oneounceload
member
^^^ That or find some store going out of business and find some form of display rack that comes apart easily. I have one that becomes small enough to go in the back of a MINI along with big range box etc.
bob4
Member
Someone is always gonna try PVC. This is 1.5 inch scraps with 2 "T"s in them for stakes to attach a piece of wood or card board. I have a total of .25 man hrs in this. 
No, they don't hold up great when shot. But most of mine is rifle and they last a long time.
RetiredUSNChief
Member
Here's what I use any more:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_236805-37672-844496_0__?productId=3027085
The Hillman Group 19.25" by 24" blank sign, only $5.98 at your local Lowes.
$5.38 with a 10% discount, if you're military or retired military.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_236805-37672-844496_0__?productId=3027085
The Hillman Group 19.25" by 24" blank sign, only $5.98 at your local Lowes.
$5.38 with a 10% discount, if you're military or retired military.
I don't mean to knock any of the designs shared here, but for cheapness, portability, and versatility, I think I win so far.
I typically staple an NRA D1 target to a pair of these with a 1x2 from Lowes/Home Depot cut in half to make the two uprights.
The only thing I've done that's even more portable is string with paper plates hung using binder clips and varying lengths of UHaul paper packing tape (lengths vary to compensate for the sag in the string). That requires you have two suitable points you can span with a length of string in front of the berm.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
It don't get any cheaper then a campaign yard sign stand they never bothered to come back and get after an election went south on them!!!
After about a month?
Just cleaning up roadside litter as a public service is the way I look at it!!
rc
After about a month?
Just cleaning up roadside litter as a public service is the way I look at it!!
rc
RetiredUSNChief
Member
Heck, if you want cheap...just shoot at all the orange clay pigeon fragments on the berm at the range.
danez71
Member
I agree!
That's what did and hang bowling pins using eye bolts and S hooks. The one I got is made of welded angle iron and can be pounded into the ground if needed.
There's actually a law here that says the campaign signs are supposed to be taken down with in 30 days of an election or be fined per sign left up.
Leave the Dem's sign up and hope they get fined
I really like the spiral fishing pole holders idea too. Super portable and lite.
Here are a couple more sites with good plans for stands, about $10 each.
http://firespeedtactical.com/diy-pvc-portable-target-stands/
http://www.theboxotruth.com/educational-zone-24-homemade-target-stand/
Gota love the Box-o-Truth
Supplies:
• PVC Primer and Glue – Don’t glue the vertical pieces for easy transportation.
• 1 piece of 1½″ PVC - Pipe, 10ft.
• 2 pieces of 1½″ PVC - Tee.
• 2 pieces of 1½″ PVC - Elbow, 90 degree.
• 2 pieces of 1½″ PVC - End Caps, Optional.
• 1-2 pieces of 1″x2″ - Wood, length is your call depending on what height you wish to make your targets and what will fit in your car. 4ft works well for me.
Cut your 10ft PVC pipe into 16″ sections.
16″ width of the stand is appropriate for silhouette targets.
Or make the middle section as wide as the cardboard you have ready access to, up to 24″.
Glue all the parts but NOT the uprights to allow breakdown for transportation.
Also keep in mind precision is not the end all in this project.
Bring a staplegun.
http://firespeedtactical.com/diy-pvc-portable-target-stands/
http://www.theboxotruth.com/educational-zone-24-homemade-target-stand/
Gota love the Box-o-Truth
Supplies:
• PVC Primer and Glue – Don’t glue the vertical pieces for easy transportation.
• 1 piece of 1½″ PVC - Pipe, 10ft.
• 2 pieces of 1½″ PVC - Tee.
• 2 pieces of 1½″ PVC - Elbow, 90 degree.
• 2 pieces of 1½″ PVC - End Caps, Optional.
• 1-2 pieces of 1″x2″ - Wood, length is your call depending on what height you wish to make your targets and what will fit in your car. 4ft works well for me.
Cut your 10ft PVC pipe into 16″ sections.
16″ width of the stand is appropriate for silhouette targets.
Or make the middle section as wide as the cardboard you have ready access to, up to 24″.
Glue all the parts but NOT the uprights to allow breakdown for transportation.
Also keep in mind precision is not the end all in this project.
Bring a staplegun.
If you want a bunch of the political signs, contact the loser of the next primary if local office, or just pickup the regional/national candidates signs.
By the way if you want to reuse a sign they can be cleaned using acetone or maybe mineral spirits. Handy for a yard sale or the kids paint them for school spirit signs for the big ball game.
By the way if you want to reuse a sign they can be cleaned using acetone or maybe mineral spirits. Handy for a yard sale or the kids paint them for school spirit signs for the big ball game.
Chuck R.
Member
I went a head and welded up some steel stands (8) for my IDPA targets out of some scrap steel tubing. I did have to pay for some tube for the 1x2 holders. One is seen here strapped to my moving target:
They're pretty light, portable, and stack easily in my target shed.
Also by putting the brace on top of the legs they slide under which makes it easier to set up hostages and no shoots:
Chuck
They're pretty light, portable, and stack easily in my target shed.
Also by putting the brace on top of the legs they slide under which makes it easier to set up hostages and no shoots:
Chuck
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