FACE-OFF: Heavy-duty 6" 357

Which one?

  • S&W 686

    Votes: 38 44.7%

  • Ruger GP100

    Votes: 40 47.1%

  • Skip 357 and get a used, long-barreled 38

    Votes: 7 8.2%
  • Total voters
    85
  • Poll closed .
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Smaug

Smaug

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Apr 18, 2004
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You're in the market for a new range revolver at or under $1k. You're a handloader.

If it helps in your decision, your other revolvers are:
  • 2" LCR in 38
  • 3" SP-101 in 357
  • 4" S&W 19 (357)
  • 7.5" Redhawk in 44
  • 5.5" S&W 625 (45 ACP)
  • 4.75" Cimarron P (45 Colt)
I figure the choices below are fair. The 686 and GP can handle more juice, but lack a bit of class compared to a classic. The new ones are less risky, in terms of finding something wrong, but will have a worse trigger to compensate.

On the other hand, what's the point in 357 if it's not going to be used for defense or hunting? Maybe go with a 38 instead?
 
If you're stuck on 357 Magnum then get a S&W 627 (8-shooter)

If I was buying a GP100 I would do 10mm. Moonclips rule!

Since moonclips rule, you could do a 929 and have a moonclip fed 9mm 8-shooter.

If you're going to back down to 38 Special then you need a model 10/64 with a 4-inch heavy barrel and get some good robust fixed sights on a finely balanced revolver.
 
I vote GP100. I have a 686 and it's a nice piece. I had a couple 586's back when they first came out and managed to shoot them both out of time with a steady diet of heavy loads. I like S&W's and have a safe full, but the Ruger's are built stout (Have a few of them, too).
 
Man, you recommended EVERYTHING but what I asked about! :D

mcb said:
If you're stuck on 357 Magnum then get a S&W 627 (8-shooter)
Click to expand...
Not interested in cleaning 8 chambers!

mcb said:
If I was buying a GP100 I would do 10mm. Moonclips rule!
Click to expand...
That's tempting, but I'm already set up to load 357 Mag and 44 Mag. If I want 10 mm power level, I'll just load the 44 Mag down a bit.

mcb said:
Since moonclips rule, you could do a 929 and have a moonclip fed 9mm 8-shooter.
Click to expand...
I agree that moon clips rule. I really like using them with my S&W 625. (45 ACP)

mcb said:
If you're going to back down to 38 Special then you need a model 10/64 with a 4-inch heavy barrel and get some good robust fixed sights on a finely balanced revolver.
Click to expand...
That's not much different than my 4" Model 19. I was thinking 6" because:

  • I don't have one yet
  • It has a longer sight radius than 4", but maybe without being too muzzle heavy like my 7.5" Redhawk is
 
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I have an old, blued, half lug GP100. Had it many years and the round count with standard .357 loads is astronomical (unknown, but a lot). Still tight and accurate after all these years.

Finish is worn almost completely away, dinged, scratched, and battered from heavy use in gun finish hostile, back country areas.

I take good care of it, but it always goes with me on outdoor adventures since the mid 80's.
 
I have a GP100 and a 686+. Both are stainless, full lug 4" (approx) barrels, with adjustable sights. The 686+ has 7 chambers and the GP has 6. The 686+ still weighs more than the GP empty.

But it's not enough to matter. My point is that the "beef" isn't a weight issue. It's just part of the design. And they are designed very differently.

I think the GP is a more robust design. The 686+ has a shorter trigger stroke and reset. That doesn't mean the trigger on the GP is bad, it's just longer. If I could only keep one, it would be the GP.....but it's hard call.
 
Keep your options open, look for both and make your best deal. They are very comparable handguns, and you can't go wrong with either.
 
the GP100 is a good revolver, the 686 is an excellent revolver

forged is stronger than cast
Click to expand...
Since neither revolver is known for the frames failing, the method of manufacture of the frames is moot. To the extent that one of the revolvers is actually practically stronger than the other, the issues are design differences, not how the frames are formed.

The "revolverburger" picture is misleading. I'm kind of surprised it's still circulating after all these years. The 686 and the GP100 weigh the same and fit in the same holsters.
 
GP100 357 but I like the balance of a 5" vs 6". The advantage of 357 vs 38 in a range gun for a reloader is you can load 38spl, 38+P, full house 357 Magnum or anywhere in between.
 
Last edited:
My FiL has a 6" GP100. I have a number of medium-framed S&W revolvers. My FiL's GP100 happens to have a nice trigger, and it's every bit as accurate and nice to shoot as a similar S&W. Between the two, I would choose the one that fit my hand best and pointed the best for me.

N-frames seem to have better triggers. I've never shot any other 357 revolver that's as easy to shoot as my Model 28.

Nice old S&W revolvers are nicer than any of the modern ones, IMHO.

38's are fine. As the years go on, that's what I mostly shoot out of my 357's anyway.

As my eyesight keeps going downhill, I'm glad that I bought good revolvers with adjustable sights when I was younger. Adjustable sights are much bigger and easier to see as you age.

Smith And Wesson Model 28

Smith And Wesson Model 28

 
With so many postive comments, it would appear that you couldn't err by buying either one. I dont own either so i can't advise you regarding which one to bring home. But, i will say that once you make your decision, don't second guess yourself. That will bring unnecessary misery. Enjoy your new firearm and keep us posted.
 
For a heavy duty .357 range revolver, I'd skip both and go with a Ruger Blackhawk- with first preference going to the smaller flattop frame.
 
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