Fighting knife characteristics

[Valkman]

Right - I forgot to mention we did collaborate on a smaller blade which was a hunting Landshark made more "tactical" with rubber handles and a coating of Alumahyde II, although the coating wound up coming off LOL. Good luck with that knife!

 

[ArfinGreebly]

Landshark

You know, one of these days . . .

The actual model I was originally hoping to get (before you decided to wrestle with a toothy spinning disk) was a Landshark.

I'll just have to keep my eyes peeled.

 

[Valkman]

I've got a lot of boxes that have been packed for over a year since we thought we'd have to move - no telling what's in them! LOL

 

[Slamfire]

I have one of Don's knives, it is a real cutter. Sharp and slices well.

Don will probably cringe, but I have been using my in the kitchen on vegetables, fruit, and meat.

Can't take it with you

 

[Valkman]

Use it like you stole it!

 

[baylorattorney]

To each his own I guess. However, the topic is specific to knives. I choose this one over a stick any day. Case XX USMC Semper Fi.

This is not disrespecting the above opinions in any way, it's just mine and I like it bc I'm confident with my knife. I do carry a couple of cowsticks (one cane shaped ((for removing lassos)) the other about a five foot stick for poking) and understand their advantages in hand to hand combat situations. Heck, they've stopped 1/2 ton livestock from running me over and are a good deterrent. However the other sort of attackers we have contacted don't understand deterrent or less lethal. They are bad bad guys and need this in their liver or brain to understand.

These days down here in deep South Texas I wish to the heavens I had more occasion to carry an umbrella. Lol.

 

[baylorattorney]

@Gordon. Wow! Those are some good looking fighting knives.

 

[JShirley]

baylor, it is an effective-looking knife: it's just bigger than a deployed combat troop can reasonably carry, and smaller than I would want if I didn't have a firearm.

John

 

[22-rimfire]

Use it like you stole it!

Good line. I wish I could live by that motto with my knives. Sometimes I just can't bring myself to mark them up.

A good classic fighting knife is worth nothing relative to it's purpose if you leave it home in the safe. But I have never been in a real fight in my life; not even a fist fight.

I believe a larger knife is the answer if you can choose to or able to carry a larger knife. For me a 5" > 7" bowie style blade is pretty "large". But usually it is the knife you have with you regardless of its design or size.

JShirley you have some great comments based on experience.

 

[baylorattorney]

or a good Bowie.

baylor, it is an effective-looking knife: it's just bigger than a deployed combat troop can reasonably carry, and smaller than I would want if I didn't have a firearm.

John

I hear you. I'd like an Arkansas toothpick or my bolo over this KBar in a fight.

 

[baylorattorney]

I carry it upside down on the suspender of my web gear Vietnam style.

 

[JShirley]

Okay, needs to be said: "Now, that's a knife!"

I carry my 'shark upside down on my nondominant side. That way, a strong pull will unsheath it. If I can't use my right hand, I can still draw it.

 

[Gordon]

Interesting. I use the Mad Dog Voodoo Hound (7 inch) in a Dundee rig which is used Sam Browne style on a War Belt. It stabilizes (keeps from sliding off my butt) the weight of the belt so I don't notice the knife's 11 Oz weight.
I have used the Dundee rig to discreetly carry large knives under jackets. The draw stroke is ambidext reaching around back of strong hip and pulling down and out.Actually better for weak hand.
Ya know this thread started off with what is a fighting knife?
To me that was a 7+" Randall because WW2 vets told me that a knife that size was the schizzle to actually do the deed on an enemy in combat. It certainly severed tendons in a bayonet fight for me, and opened ammo crates and C rats and...
So for the new millenium I thought I'd bring my "fighting" knife up to speed

 

[hso]

Ek, Randall, and Murphy all made knives carried by U.S. troops in harms way in WWII. Ek and Randall continued putting knives in the hands of troops going into combat for decades. Their knives looked somewhat different but had the same basic characteristics, point aligned with axis of a full sized grip for thrusting for vitals and a sharpened edge for slashing.

All the parameters for combat knives for troops do not match those for the street since we don't carry openly like troops in combat. Our goal is self defense where tropes in combat have different needs.

 

[Gordon]

What is thop knife? A Murphy? Gotta have one , for collection!

 

[Readyrod]

Ok, I'm back. I really appreciate the responses. I'm going to quote what seems to be good advice, please correct me if you want.

Critical characteristics are for the knife to have a good grip that won't slip when wet and has some sort of protection to keep your hand from sliding down onto the edge. The point should be fine enough for easy penetration, but not so fine as to be weak to break or bend easily. The blade doesn't have to be heavy or thick, but it shouldn't be so thin as to bend or break easily. It can be straight edged, bellied or recurved depending upon how it will be used. Bigger is better, but only so far as you can carry and use it.

You need a blade that won't break during the fight, and be able to thrust as well as slashThe grip must prevent your hand from slipping up onto the blade during the fight, and expect that hand to be slippery with blood, yours or the opponent's. A grip that protrudes beyond the hand so that you may deliver a pommel blow is gravy (imho).

The length needs to be long enough to reach vital organs from the front of the body (most of these are located to the back of the rib cage btw)

Once again for thrusts a 6" blade is minimum and 7+" has been considered for a LONG time as a good length. Double edge is OK in a attack type blade but I really prefer a slim straight spine fishbelly knife about 9 or 10" long to stick pigs with. Any curve in the point area tends to "cam" away from the centerline of a hard thrust deep in a body. A sharpened false edge is ok as long as the false edge has little or no no curve to it , the spine should be straight with a slight positive included angle droop. Harpoon or big steps to a flat thick spine suck real bad! 1/4" blade thickness is good in a knife this size if properly flat ground to remove alot of excess. 3/16" can be very nasty on stuff shorter than 9" if done by a master

1. Tough - I made these for soldiers and wanted it strong enough to do any job that came up. If it broke under ANY circumstances I'd consider it a failure.
2. Versatile - I gave it 6" of grip and 2 choils so it could be gripped in a number of ways, however the job at hand demanded. Also perfect for gloved hands, important for soldiers.
3. Size - I know some feel a smaller knife is better for soldiers but I gave most of these 6" blades and they were 12" overall. Not small but hopefully valuable enough to carry. I also made some 5" Fighters with the same 6" handle and they were pretty sweet.
4. Thickness - I made these out of 3/16" steel as I felt 1/4" was too heavy. 3/16" would still be tough enough for any job.
5. Handle - Sand blasted Micarta all the way for soldiers. I had civilians order all kinds of different handles and that's fine because then they're not really for fighting anyway, right? The micarta was perfect for gloved hands and very grippy.
6. Top Edge - I left it unsharpened unless the customer requested otherwise. It's illegal in too many places to have as "stock" and not really needed anyway.
7. Steel - Only the best so I used D2 or CPMD2 mainly with some CPM154. Combined with Paul Bos Heat treat these were the best combinations I could come up with

Looks good. I got the idea. I do realize that the longer knives are less practical to carry but at least I now have a good idea of what a fighting knife looks like. And thanks for all the other advice. That said I don't want to get in a knife fight. I too prefer the cane idea. One of the high schools I work at has a kendo club that I can go to if I ever find the time. I'll have to try this winter.
I was thinking that while thrusting is deadlier, slashing, or threatening to, might be better for defense, seeing as you would be better off avoiding the fight.

 

[hso]

Kendo won't do you a bit of good.

 

[Readyrod]

Kendo won't do you a bit of good

Ok, just out of curiosity why not?

 

[hso]

It's sword, not knife, so the techniques are different.

 

[Readyrod]

Sorry I wasn't clear, I meant kendo for using a cane.

 

[geologist]

Gerber MK II. I carried it in the highlands of Papua New Guinea for 5 years. It impressed some of the locals who had bone knives. Some made from human femurs.



I also carried this 18" machete, sharpened on both sides.

 

[JShirley]

I personally think quality sword instruction would be very helpful. Not for the techniques, but for timing and distance skill. Those are more important than specific techs.

 

[Readyrod]

So I checked out some 7" knives the other day and they were big. I could see a soldier carrying one but it would be hard for me to do it. Guess I'll have to look for a folder. At least I now know what a good fighting knife should look like. Thanks everyone for the info.
RR

 

[Ole Coot]

I can't carry my K-Bar or EK edge and 1/2 like I used in the '60s so I go with a SOG Flash II carried behind my belt buckle for either hand access. You just don't want to be in a knife fight period. In the States it won't be seen only felt by an attacker. I had a decent amount of experience with one so get a decent reality check before carrying one, it's nasty and messy. I would use a cane, the only true legal weapon everywhere.

 

[bikerdoc]

Coot and I think alike on a lot of things.

Since I was born in WV maybe we are related.