First 9mm BLOWOUT !!

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Thanks to all you guys for your comments. I am just beginning to load 9mm, so this is good information to know. I've loaded lots of 38spcl, 357, and 45 ACP with no problems, but now I'm thinking about potential faulty cases. I already have a Wilson case gauge for the 9 on order, so I feel better about that. I really like ballman6711's advice.
 
Case head expanded. Overcharge. Get an RCBS Lock-Out die and start looking in every case after charging the case.
Out of battery will blow out the side.
Never saw a case head expanded like that where an overcharge or severe bullet set-back wasn't the issue.
For all cartridges, but 9mm Luger in particular, ALWAYS push down on a seated bullet with thumb/finger pressure and reject any cartridge where the bullet moves.
 
Although rare note the inherent danger with "balloon head" cases!
No manufacturer produces ammo that is meant to be reloaded! here's proof!

Baloon head case.jpg

Smiles,
 
Or for 9mm you could get this Lyman gauge. It's what I use for my loaded rounds. This is a loaded .380 that got through my LNL-AP undetected.
View attachment 961160
All my loaded rounds go through this. As you can see you can also compare round to round because all eight holes are the same caliber.
My Grandson recently found a 9 Makarov among my loaded rounds last week end.
View attachment 961165
This is a 9mm Makarov which isn't as obvious. I like these gauges and all my loaded 9mms goes through it. Really speeds things up.

Nothing ruins a 9mm PCC Match like a 9X18 MAK! The round chambered but ahead of the extractor! I missed the 9X18 MAK in my case gauge because it only checks COL and doesn't seat on the case mouth apparently!

All the best,
 
That Armanov logo is a straight up copy of the PNW arms old logo. They are out of business now so I don't think they care, but it's identical!.
QUOTE="BreechFace, post: 11734980, member: 262706"]Take a look at these, just ordered one for 9mm to up my game, before I lose fingers.

[/QUOTE]
 

So, I'm just wondering here - the crimp dimensions seem a little too tight at .3785 to me.

If memory serves, Berry's is .356 rather than .355 and that makes it a little harder to get to .380 crimp.

I would suggest pulling a bullet to see if the case has engraved into the shank.

I'm not saying this is the cause. My first thought went to a round seating too high in the chamber. My second was an overcharge. I get really picky when I'm loading fine grain powders - it's easy to get a good deal of flux.

Just for giggles, I just went out and mic'd the crimps on a bunch of factory FMJ I have:
  1. Winchester white box - .379
  2. UMC - .382
  3. Federal - .380
  4. Amerian Eagle - .381
and then I dragged out:
  1. Rem Golden Sabre - .382
  2. Fed HST - .381
  3. Fed Hydra Shok - .381
  4. Win Ranger T - .380
I'm with Walkalong, and suggest the use of a case/cartridge gauge. I have both Wilson and Hornady.
 
Nothing ruins a 9mm PCC Match like a 9X18 MAK!

Buy a Mak, after looking for your Mak brass in all the 9X19 laying about you learn to spot them!

After looking for Mak brass spotting other guys .38 Super Comps scattered about in the 9mm is easy:D

(and I'm getting blind in my old age)
 
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Walkalong said: Agreed

So, I'm just wondering here - the crimp dimensions seem a little too tight at .3785 to me.

If memory serves, Berry's is .356 rather than .355 and that makes it a little harder to get to .380 crimp.

I would suggest pulling a bullet to see if the case has engraved into the shank.

I'm not saying this is the cause. My first thought went to a round seating too high in the chamber. My second was an overcharge. I get really picky when I'm loading fine grain powders - it's easy to get a good deal of flux.

Just for giggles, I just went out and mic'd the crimps on a bunch of factory FMJ I have:
  1. Winchester white box - .379
  2. UMC - .382
  3. Federal - .380
  4. Amerian Eagle - .381
and then I dragged out:
  1. Rem Golden Sabre - .382
  2. Fed HST - .381
  3. Fed Hydra Shok - .381
  4. Win Ranger T - .380
I'm with Walkalong, and suggest the use of a case/cartridge gauge. I have both Wilson and Hornady.

I agreed to a post about pressure and cases.

I set up the crimp die on 9MM to completely remove the flare on the shortest cases, which means the longer ones get a bit more. I don’t care what the measurements are. I never have any issues there, the only issues I have ever had were near the base on cases that resisted sizing and were too fat.

The first time I ever measured at the crimp was to answer a question here.

The last time I loaded 9MM for me it was all the same headstamp and I tweaked the crimp die for that brass.
 
If you think 9mm is bad, you should have a .308 blow out on you...

View attachment 961078

View attachment 961079

I think in instances like this, outside of an OOB detonation... it has to be the brass. There are a number of things that can weaken brass, and there is always the unseen quantity of a bad lot or piece of brass.
Damn, I would have to pass on that !
So, I'm just wondering here - the crimp dimensions seem a little too tight at .3785 to me.

If memory serves, Berry's is .356 rather than .355 and that makes it a little harder to get to .380 crimp.

I would suggest pulling a bullet to see if the case has engraved into the shank.

I'm not saying this is the cause. My first thought went to a round seating too high in the chamber. My second was an overcharge. I get really picky when I'm loading fine grain powders - it's easy to get a good deal of flux.

Just for giggles, I just went out and mic'd the crimps on a bunch of factory FMJ I have:
  1. Winchester white box - .379
  2. UMC - .382
  3. Federal - .380
  4. Amerian Eagle - .381
and then I dragged out:
  1. Rem Golden Sabre - .382
  2. Fed HST - .381
  3. Fed Hydra Shok - .381
  4. Win Ranger T - .380
I'm with Walkalong, and suggest the use of a case/cartridge gauge. I have both Wilson and Hornady.
Good info. I've always stayed in the .3785-.3790 range, BUT maybe its too tight. I will pull the 10 other rounds I have made and see what the bullet says, I was looking at the target I was shooting earlier this evening and there was a couple of holes that were not the normal 9mm hole. Thats either low powder or too tight crimp. My powder was dead nuts 5.45gr's so you are more than likely correct. I use Wilson and Dillon case gauges on every round. Like the Armanov blocks now too. Just always thought one-at-a-time was more proficient. Going to order one tonight. Thanks for the reply
 
Damn, I would have to pass on that !

Good info. I've always stayed in the .3785-.3790 range, BUT maybe its too tight. I will pull the 10 other rounds I have made and see what the bullet says, I was looking at the target I was shooting earlier this evening and there was a couple of holes that were not the normal 9mm hole. Thats either low powder or too tight crimp. My powder was dead nuts 5.45gr's so you are more than likely correct. I use Wilson and Dillon case gauges on every round. Like the Armanov blocks now too. Just always thought one-at-a-time was more proficient. Going to order one tonight. Thanks for the reply

I just take the flare out and try for .380. I'm really happy with my accuracy.

SAAMI specs say .382 is the chamber dimension, but if you look down at the notes for the chamber, they state that "unless otherwise noted all diameters +.004". I've never swaged my pistol barrels so I have no idea how they compare to that. Maybe I'll do that during COVID for giggles.

On .380 pistol brass and using .357 lead, I've had cases bell out under the bullet while trying to get a .380 crimp. It's thin brass. Using a Wilson Pistol Max gauge as a safety check, I brought the crimp out to .382 and stopped having problems.

I was on the Castboolits site the other day and saw that they are using lead bullets up to .358 for 9mm. Most said .357 lead gave them the best accuracy. Lots of good stuff there.
 
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