First time mounting a scope, have questions.

[show_me_2nd]

Santa brought me a Millett DMS-1 and Millett one piece cantilever scope mount for my LE6920. I want to install the gear myself. I'm thinking I should use use some locktite blue on the 8 screws that hold the half moon tops of the rings to the base but I'm wondering if there are any torque requirements or if locktite blue is the best thing to use.
The base locks into the picatinny with a single screw / bolt head type deal. Also thinking some locktite on that would help? Kicking myself in the head that I did not ask for a QD type mount.
Heading out to the LGS today to look for a laser bore sight and some kind of leveling device to help with alignment. Hoping I won't need to think about lapping, thinking that's more for long range precision work and I'm not there yet.
Thanks in advance for helpful advice / suggestions.

 

[G.barnes]

There's no need for locktite. Just tighten them down evenly until they don't move anymore. Two fingers are all the torque you need. Using locktite will just make things harder to get apart if you ever decide to change things.

 

[Fredericianer]

I use the blue Loctite. I'm not really sure that it's necessary, but better safe than sorry!

 

[urbaneruralite]

You can bore sight by looking through the bore at a distant object. Just pull the bolt and lock the rifle down. Eyeball the object while centered in the bore and adjust the crosshairs until they meet up.

Lapping is to prevent damage to the scope. With the unitized mounts it's usually unnecessary. For leveling, you can get started by using a standard carpenter's level across the receiver to level the rifle. Then hang a weight by a cord in the distance. Just make the vertical crosshair parallel to the cord and it'll be squared away. That is unless the reticle is not square to the turrets. That's only an issue if you're going to dial for holdover and holdoff. Doesn't sound like you intend to go long like that.

There was a long discussion on loctite or not on here recently.

 

[Zerodefect]

Lapping is to prevent damage to the scope. With the unitized mounts it's usually unnecessary. For leveling, you can get started by using a standard carpenter's level across the receiver to level the rifle. Then hang a weight by a cord in the distance. Just make the vertical crosshair parallel to the cord and it'll be squared away. That is unless the reticle is not square to the turrets. That's only an issue if you're going to dial for holdover and holdoff. Doesn't sound like you intend to go long like that.

That's the best way to get a scope level I've ever heard.

Best bore sighter I've used:


I just set my laser a hair low, but centered. Works every time.

 

[Skylerbone]

I always use Blue LocTite after degreasing screws and threads. Never had a problem removing mounts or rings in 20+ years of doing it myself. Torque should be specified by the manufacturer, if not you'll need to know screw size and material (aluminum or steel) and use the Google.

Ditto on using a level and plumb bob, nearly fool-proof 'cept I use a magnetic torpedo level which is shorter and stays put (on steel).

 

[jlr1962]

s m 2, if all else fails, read the instructions. You can find lots of good info on the midwayusa website as well.

Looking through the bore is easiest way to boresight a rifle if it will work with the gun.

You need to know how to do this stuff so you don't find yourself using a setup that doesn't quite fit you just right. What is the saying.... Why buy milk when you have a cow at home? No not that one. Fishing is..., bird in the

 

[Skylerbone]

I believe you mean "Give a man a fish and he'll eat all your cookies too, Teach a man to fish and he'll raid your tackle box; either way you're scre..." Maybe "Luck favors the prepared man".

Whatever you do, don't try to estimate torque on screws or close the ring gap. One other thing I do on certain rings like Leupold that "snap on", is take an emery board to the sharp edges so as not to mar the scope minute one.

If your AR has a collapsible stock you should make sure the mount offers adequate eye relief before going too far, that is, if you shoot nose to charging handle.

 

[Dentite]

Good advice has been given. If you really want a QD setup, then get one and mount your scope when you get it. If you are going to have the rifle for a long time you might as well get it set up the way you want it.

I use a level on the rifle and then do the plum bob technique to get my reticle lever.

I do lap rings but I found that when using a one piece mount like the Larue Tactical one I have on my 6920 it was good out of the box and lapping only slightly improved it.

I wouldn't use locktite on your scope rings. I have used it to secure a base to a rifle, but not scope rings.

Hope that helps.

 

[carbine85]

I never use anything on the threads. I have a inch torque wrench and properly torque the screws. Use a feeler gauge to make sure your rings are tightened down properly.
As mentioned above use a level on your action and scope to level everything and visually bore sight it to get it on paper.
IMHO the laser bore sighters are a waist of good money for the limited amount of use.

 

[X-Rap]

Magnetic levels won't work on your gun
I wouldn't worry about the locktite
You'll have to pull the upper to bore site and some method of clamping will help
You can use building corners, window frames, telephone poles, or fence posts as a visual point to level your scope in the mounts
With an adjustable stock your going to have to set the eye relief to the point you are going to shoot from the most

 

[show_me_2nd]

Thanks much for the great advice. I have a project for today, well, maybe tomorrow.

The mount and scope didn't come with much direction on how to install same, other than something like "proper mounting is important to accuracy, do it right".

 

[Skylerbone]

The previously mentioned thread on LocTite: http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=766130&highlight=LocTite

 

[Inebriated]

I use Loctite. Equal torque on each screw is ideal. Best way I know to do it without a torque wrench is to just turn the allen wrench by the short end. As much torque as you can get with just the short end is plenty. As far as making sure it's level, anything straight off in the distance will work... You can take the upper off and set it on a counter you know to be level, then look through the scope at anything straight and get the crosshairs lined up.

As for bore sighting, while the upper is off the lower, remove the BCG and look down the barrel at something 25-50 yards away, and adjust the scope on until the crosshairs are looking at the same thing. You'll be on paper when you go to the range and just need to fine tune.

 

[show_me_2nd]

Thanks all!

 

[Sav .250]

U-Tube should have a tutorial on the subject.

 

[Grumulkin]

Wheeler Engineering make a level kit for mounting scopes. You put one on a flat part of the rifle and the other on the top turret. When the bubbles on both levels are centered, you crosshairs are properly aligned.

As for Lock Tite, you don't need to use it on any part of the rings. If you're attaching a base to your rifle you should use it.

I've mounted a bunch of scopes in the past few years even on big bore so called elephant guns.

 

[redneck2]

+1 on the Wheeler. That's what I use

 

[Sniper66]

My brilliant gunsmith, now deceased, never used LockTite after years of dismantling guns that had been assembled using it. He said it is a real nuisance and unnecessary. Instead he used resin and light yet firm torque. I've mounted several scopes using nothing but good mounts and appropriate torque. I've never had a problem.

 

[Skylerbone]

Bedding a mount to the receiver is not at all the same as using the appropriate strength LocTite to prevent screws from backing out. It confounds me that so many are suspicious of a product that does what it claims to do and nothing more. Sure, choosing the wrong strength can lead to problems just as loading .308s in your 30-06 will even though they fit.

Spend the $3, glue a small nut to a piece of wood (degrease the threads first), put a dab of blue on a corresponding machine screw and screw it in. Come back the next day and back the screw out. It won't need gorilla force or a heat gun and it won't snap off at the head unless you used a defective screw.

I've seen a number of rings come loose even when torqued within spec and the ammo wasted, not to mention the frustrated shooter was far costlier than LocTite.

 

[Inebriated]

^+1

 

[Doc7]

I typically boresight by looking through the bore at a lightswitch across the room, centering the object as best as I can with sandbags and lining up the scope. I've not yet ran into any trouble sighting in a firearm once at the range so I don't think I will overthink it any more.

 

[ISChief]

Screw drivers and Firearms

I learned this the hard way years ago:

Don't use a worn "high mileage" phillip screw driver bit or your daddy's flat blade either. Buy the magnetic 1/4" hex drive handle from Lowe's, the one that goes for around $5.00 near the single replacement socket wrenches and a set of the Stanley tips that run about $6.00 bucks that come in a rubbery retainer that has about 16 tips in it.

Once a phillip bit slips toss it and get new one, even better if the tip gets a shine replace it before it slips and scratches your baby or boogers up the screw cross corners. Replacements by DeWalt come in 50 packs for around $6.00 and are cheap insurance. They are not made to last forever.

As for flat blade screw drivers hold up your regular ole' Stanley like your going to poke the ceiling look at the narrow edge from the side. You will notice it tapers, it will cam out of your beautiful slotted screw booger the slot and really gouge something. The change tip slotted screw drivers are radius-ed and will stay in the slot if you hold it square while twisting.

If you can sandblast the tips of both styles they will grip even better for awhile. Sanding won't work.

Something else to consider with your scope mount as far as level is concerned. Make certain the rear and front are the same height (square) on a level receiver by laying the edge of a steel ruler or something similar across the receiver mount halves.

Look to see if the ruler lays flat across both mounts without gaping on the front or rear of the mounts.

If there is a gap it will be on the same side of both mounts. If the gap is to the front the front mount is higher than the rear. If the gap is to the rear of both then the rear is high.

This means the receiver may not be flat. Use the strait edge to check for gaps the same as you checked the mounts.

This condition will flex or preload the scope and cause zero problems especially in variable power scopes where mounts are directly on the receiver.

Correct the condition by shimming the low mount or grinding or filing the high mount where it contacts the receiver, but keep the grinding (filing) surface square.