Fixed it, untill.....

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just for fun

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May 11, 2007
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Fixed it, till it broke! The correct setup for the perfect trigger pull on a glock pistol is a very subjective manner. Getting more than a handful of people to agree on one combination of parts would entail more luck than anything.
Add to this the increasing number of companies offering the ultimate trigger package and it quickly becomes what are you satisfied with. Price range for any of these aftermarket triggers range from just under one hundred dollars to one hundred and eighty dollars plus for the complete package. On these very pages I’ve read where other posters have purchased as many as three/four aftermarket triggers, looking for the “best” one.
In the event that you happen to be a competition shooter who makes his/her livelihood shooting this would be a valid endeavor. From my prospective I cannot justify that kind of expense on a five hundred dollar gun.
Of late my personal “best” setup has comprised of a four pound striker spring, a six pound trigger spring, utilizing a stock connector and trigger housing. Results were- firm wall and a little lighter than stock trigger pull. When I was headed to the range I would replace the stock connector with a factory minus one. This connector was installed in a Lone Wolf adjustable trigger housing. (Mushy trigger but tighter groups!) For me the one shortfall would still be the factory trigger. To be more specific the knife edge trigger safety.
There is better “out there”, but which one? Overview of the Apex trigger for S&W MP pistols has resulted in stellar results. Deciding factor was the lack of “adjustment” screws. (Been there, done that and was lucky enough to get back a full refund. Adjustment screws would not keep a set and trigger safety spring broke!)
Apex has just started making their trigger for glocks and Brownell’s had them in stock. A few days later in was installed in my g32. I guess a guy on youtube describes the change it made, best. He said it’s much better than stock, but hard to put into words how and why. For me, with the stock connector the trigger travel from wall to striker release was shorter and lighter. It is my belief the lighter comes from the trigger design itself. Where the sides of the factory trigger are rounded the Apex is flater, stock trigger is curved the Apex is straighter. I liken it to the trigger “shoes” for S&W revolvers back in the 70’s.To me it is money well spent.
Never willing to leave good enough alone, I installed minus connector in a stock trigger housing and got a striker reset-sometimes! There were zero issues till I installed the (-) connector. Cycling the slide would work three out of ten times. Well that left room for improvement! Installed a stock trigger spring and (what do you know) everything worked as advertised. Yes, the wall was gone and of course the pull was lighter, still the mush in the trigger travel was not as pronounced. From my prospective, very workable.
With that behind me, I was looking forward to installing my range setup and changed out the aftermarket six pound trigger spring for a stock one. Now the only difference would be the LFD trigger housing. Didn’t work out! Trigger would not reset at all. Backed out the adjustment screw a quarter of a turn and still nothing. This trigger housing has a 9MM GEN4 30274 extractor installed in it so I stalled it into a stock trigger housing and all is well!
Bottom line, besides the new Apex trigger the only aftermarket part left in the weapon is the four pound striker spring. Oh ya, did I tell you it is perfect? Well, at least for now!!
My son will be coming home for Thanksgiving and will any luck we should be able to get out to the range for a few hours. Normally that will amount to putting somewhere around 400 rounds through it. At that time, I’ll have a better assessment of this new trigger!
 
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