Flash hole deburring

[Walkalong]

243winxb:

I hope so.

With a 40X I would assume so, and did. That comment was to the general public.

I do not know if squaring case heads really caught on or not. I know I scoffed at it, and I was doing some serious prepping on cases.

I particularly paid attention to neck tension and anything that (hand) seated a hair different was shot on the sighter target or below the target for my one fouling shot.

It would take a great shooter, shooting many aggregates, to see if uniforming/deburring flash holes helped your brass shoot better.

So, until you and your gun can shoot at a very high level, consistently, worry more about reading conditions and gun handling. (Again, talking to the general readership)

And so again, I agree with Slamfire1:

I am going to say that whatever accuracy increase primer hole reaming might give, it is in the noise level.

Just too many more much more important things that can ruin your group/POI.

That said, will I uniform/deburr flash holes on brass where I am looking for all I can get? Yes, yes I will.

 

[Offfhand]

Quoted from above post:
"Is your bolt face perfectly square with the bore?"

Mr. Walkalong make a vital point here. Unless lugs, bolt face and related elements are square there is no point in squaring case heads. But by same token, unless rifle is similarly refined there there is little point in bothering with deburring and uniforming flash holes and other such tricks. And especially wasting time weighing cases.

 

[Walkalong]

But by same token, unless rifle is similarly refined there there is little point in bothering with deburring and uniforming flash holes and other such tricks.

Very true.

 

[Legionnaire]

It's a one-time step. I don't know if it really makes a difference, but I do it with my once-fired brass. I figure it can't hurt.

 

[fguffey]

Looks like a problem looking for a new tool.

I have flash hole de-burring and hanging chad removers, I keep them in the JIC drawer, as in 'just in case' I need them. I like the idea the primer flash has drive, if I bevel the flash hole I loose flash drive.

F. Guffey

deburring and uniforming flash holes and other such tricks.

There are a very few reloaders that have flash hole gages. the gage is not a tool that is used obsessively, but when developing loads the diameter of the flash hole can be tracked. To be effective the reloader must measure the diameter of the flash hole before and again after firing.

F. Guffey

 

[Walkalong]

I like the idea the primer flash has drive, if I bevel the flash hole I loose flash drive.

If overdone I agree, just remove the burr and very lightly chamfer, as posted earlier. of course, nothing wrong with only removing the burr. That is the real problem that we want to eliminate. A slight chamfer doesn't bother me. No big deal either way though, as long as the flash hole diameters are uniform and with no "hanging chads"

If you over chamfer, and in the pic it is (IMHO), it will change the blast of the primer, giving it a wider and shorter flash, theoretically anyway. Works for rocket ships.

 

[243winxb]

First Attempt- Turned tool till cutting stopped.

This was my first attempt. I turned the Lyman tool clockwise until i felt the cutting stop, usually
after two or three turns. Members of another forum http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=553086 didnt think it removed enough of the burr. The other photo with the deeper cut ,when measured, is about .010" deep as per instructions on how to adjust the tool. Both may work as the "hanging chads" seem to get removed. Lyman does need better instructions. I did a lot of 243win brass years ago. I have no idea what they look like inside. I just went to the cutting stopped, and locked the adjustment.
http://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/case-prep/pdf/LyC_CPT_Tool_FHU.pdf As been said, there are other things more important .

 

[Walkalong]

Well, it hasn't removed all the burr. That's a poor flash hole indeed.

I imagine the jury is still out which way works better, minimal cutting, or more. longer skinnier blast or shorter wider one. I don't know, I only know how I did it.

 

[murf]

deburring the flash hole is a one-shot-deal. i always do it. more important, though, is flash hole diameter. i have a drill bit on the reloading bench that gets run through the flash hole of every sized case. i want the cases all the same. (i won't mention the primer pocket reamer)

murf

 

[fguffey]

(i won't mention the primer pocket reamer)

Looks like a problem looking for a new tool.

I have two tools I did not make that works faster and better. Problem, the two tools are not listed under a list of approved tools by reloaders for fixing a perceived problem.

F. Guffey

 

[MtnCreek]

Ever removed primer crimps w/ a Dillon swager? Take a look at the flash holes afterwards. Chances are you'll eventually see a flash hole that's blocked (at least partially) by the burr that was left when the hole was punched. Also, the burr (or inconsistencies of the burrs) effect the amount of pocket swaging. Just another reason someone might want to deburr.

 

[243winxb]

Different Brand - Different Cut ?

Walkalong, what brand do you have. Thanks. The K & M looks like a better tool then my old wood handled Lyman. The cut may be different?? https://www.kmshooting.com/catalog/flash-hole-uniformer-tools/flash-hole-uniformer_professional-standard_0080.html

My old Lyman-

 

[Walkalong]

I think mine is a K&M. It looks like the K&M in the pic with a different style stop, but the cutter is like the Lyman in the second pic. It will over chamfer if not careful Adjusting the stop is critical. It looks like the new one has an adjustable shroud over the cutter. Smart. Better than a stop on the stem. I like it.

Sounds like it too.

3. Uniforms to pre-set, controlled depth (Independent of case length)

I have a K&M neck turner, as well as K&M LR primer pocket uniformer. They make good stuff. My small primer uniformer is a Whitetail Design carbide tool.

 

[243winxb]

No, not worth doing.

Now ahead by 2