Flash paper and revolver cartridges

[.38 Special]

I have tried paper cartridges made with rolling papers and end papers, both nitrated and untreated, and have not been satisfied - they all leave paper and/or ash in the chambers. I have heard of people using magician's flash paper for the purpose, and it appears to me that the paper supplied for cartridge making by H&C in France is essentially flash paper.

I also have seen some cautions about the stuff by people claiming it is unstable or that it degrades over time. Is there anyone here who has experience with it?

 

[rodwha]

I’ve used American Spirits papers (flax paper) and have also noted the paper shards left behind. Eventually I left them there to see if they caused issues. I only went through 3 more cylinders but noted it made no difference. Maybe further shooting would have shown something.

I tried nitrating some but the mess and additional time turned me off.

How much does flash paper or these papers cost compared to cigarette papers?

 

[.38 Special]

Flash paper is the most expensive option by far. The cheapest I have found is $7 for four notebook-sized sheets.

 

[rodwha]

Wow! That sure is costly.

Did you have issues with the paper shards left behind?

 

[TheOutlawKid]

Mr.38 special...i have had very a successful run with paper cartridges... I did a small last minute write up on request by another forum member... Maybe it will help? Heres the thread..
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/31-36-and-44-ammo-box-labels.859019/

 

[.38 Special]

Wow! That sure is costly.

Did you have issues with the paper shards left behind?

Well, I suppose that is a very good question. In truth I did not and was only worried that I might. The idea of a cartridge igniting as I rammed it home terrifies me. I have not heard from anyone who has had that problem. I assume they are all dead.

 

[DocRock]

Are you planning on engaging in combat with your percussion firearms?

Because unless you are, running a bronze brush into the chamber between firing removes the very limited residue of paper cartridges quite handily. And I have fired four paper cartridges from the same chambers in an Uberti 1858 NMA and two Euroarms Rogers & Spencers and no cleaning out the paper residue, without misfire.

Seriously, paper cartridges work well.

 

[TheOutlawKid]

I never have unburnt remnants left over from my paper carts and i use straight walled, not tapered, cartridged. They fit better and there is an even burn of powder and paper..while tapered cartridges smash into the cylinder unevenly and bunched up paper doesnt burn evenly and also leaves pockets of space/air sometimes...small pockets but pockets none the less. These are my carts.. With and without bullet.. For a write up on the specifics of them look at the link i posted earlier in this thread

 

[Jimster]

I use the beauty supply shop papers for my .54 Sharps rifle. A little paper is sometimes left in the chamber but I just blow it out before reloading. I realize this info is probably no help to you but there you go.

 

[TheOutlawKid]

Mr.jimster....that info is always valuable to someome reading. I use those perm papers as well and i use a coat nitrocellulose glue at the base where there percussion cap flame hits and the flame consumes the entire paper. I use Deco cement for glue. Best for making cartridges and as a binder for my DIY percussion caps

 

[rodwha]

I never have unburnt remnants left over from my paper carts and i use straight walled, not tapered, cartridged. They fit better and there is an even burn of powder and paper..while tapered cartridges smash into the cylinder unevenly and bunched up paper doesnt burn evenly and also leaves pockets of space/air sometimes...small pockets but pockets none the less. These are my carts.. With and without bullet.. For a write up on the specifics of them look at the link i posted earlier in this threadView attachment 877715 View attachment 877716 View attachment 877718 View attachment 877719 View attachment 877720

Like you I make mine straight walled as well.

 

[TheOutlawKid]

Mr.rodwha....great minds think alike eh?

 

[snubnose57]

I use tea bags. Unlimited supply from my wife. So far, no chamber residue.

 

[TheOutlawKid]

Mr.snubnose57, i second that comment about tea bags. Ive used them as well and no residue. They work great too...but can be a little tedious to make into paper cartridges if you arent as precise with your hands and fingers. I find that the hair curler/perm papers work the same and are almost of the same , yet stronger, material. When i used tea bags i bought a cheap bulk pack at wal-mart for like two bucks. Just unfolded the tea packet/bag and dumped the tea but kept the paper. Well worth the small investment.

 

[rodwha]

Are these tea bags the same as the bags you use for loose tea? It’s been some time (I like Earl Grey), but as I recall they seem very different than something like Lipton tea bags.

I have a bunch of American Spirits papers still but now I’m a bit curious.

 

[TheOutlawKid]

American spirits will work fine. I use RAW brand...its a thin, yet strong, rolling paper. Its also unbleached which i prefer natural tan/brown color. Burns really clean too.

 

[rodwha]

American spirits will work fine. I use RAW brand...its a thin, yet strong, rolling paper. Its also unbleached which i prefer natural tan/brown color. Burns really clean too.

I’ve been more than pleased with how the AS papers have worked. Despite being thing they are sturdy. And for my NMA cartridges (33 weighed grains of Olde E - 30grn volume) I can get two out of each paper. Not so for my 35 grn volume charges for my ROA.

I’ve contemplated trying them in my muzzleloader for fun. I have plastic premeasured tubes that fit in the holders on my sling so I don’t see much point for a rifle where I’m not likely to shoot more than once a day anyway. If I tagged it and it runs the Ruger will come out to play with a 195 grn WFN.

 

[TheOutlawKid]

I get 3 paper carts for my navies at 20 grains each per single rolling paper. Im frugal and dont like to waste lol

 

[misskitty2]

flash paper is the best .no residue

 

[Brutuskend]

Flash paper is just gun cotton paper. Nitrocellulose. You can make the paper yourself. It's sulfuric acid or hydrochloric acid and nitric acid. Basically you can just mix up the stuff and dip the paper in and then let it dry.

Gun cotton was "discovered" by accident when someone spilled the two acids and then cleaned up the mess, put the cotton he used to mop it up on his wood stove to dry and POOF.

This is something I have been toying around with the idea of doing myself. Though reg. paper would work, I'm thinking rag paper made from cotton may work better.

https://www.thoughtco.com/make-nitrocellulose-or-flash-paper-608269

 

[Brutuskend]

However, on further reading, .....

This is a VERY VERY good read, even if you don't plan on doing what I just suggested which in hind site is probably a really bad idea!!
Gun cotton led to the advent of smokeless powder, and like smokeless powder, it is MUCH "stronger".
https://www.historynet.com/clearing-fog-war.htm

 

[.38 Special]

In the end, flash paper was quite difficult to use. It is delicate, does not like to be shaped into cylinders and end caps, and doesn't stick to itself very well, even with the glue sold for the purpose.

It certainly does burn completely, and actually is the only thing I have found which does. Every other paper I have used - which includes just about everything I have seen suggested, nitrated and not - leaves behind residue. Whether that is important or not is open to question. As I continue to not blow myself up, I am more inclined to believe that it may not be worth worrying about.

 

[LST-1185]

I have been using nothing but paper cartridges for the past several years using thin rice rolling papers made by Elements. I roll them into a straight walled case, super glue a felt wad on one end, fill with powder, twist into a tail the other end and cut off at the base with a small drop of Duco cement to hold. At the range I shoot about 150 to 200 rounds in a day and between loading each cylinder I use a can of Dust Off to blow each chamber out. A 10 ounce can will last about 600 rounds. So far I have not had any problems using this method. Best regards.

 

[electricfactory]

I wonder what type of residue ( if any) original Civil War 1860 Army and 1851 Navys experienced from their paper cartridges ?

In the end, flash paper was quite difficult to use. It is delicate, does not like to be shaped into cylinders and end caps, and doesn't stick to itself very well, even with the glue sold for the purpose.

It certainly does burn completely, and actually is the only thing I have found which does. Every other paper I have used - which includes just about everything I have seen suggested, nitrated and not - leaves behind residue. Whether that is important or not is open to question. As I continue to not blow myself up, I am more inclined to believe that it may not be worth worrying about.

 

[woodnbow]

The original Colts cartridges were made of nitrated paper. This according to Charles Pate’s excellent book on the 1860 New Model Army. No mention of residue that I have seen so far.