Frozen C-Lect Choke

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BaltimoreBoy

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I've come by an old Mossberg/Western Field 12 ga with a C-Lect Choke that doesn't want to move.

Being of the "don't force it if it doesn't want to move" school, is there a good technique for loosening it up?

I've thought of just soaking the end of the barrel in oil and/or trying pliers and cloth padding.

Thoughts? Success stories?
 
I had a Rem-Choke that was well stuck in a barrel and simply wouldn't come out using a choke wrench.
I soaked the end of the barrel in "Marvel Mystery Oil" over 48 hours attempted again to remove it, then applied some heat with a heat gun and ended up repeating the process 3 times.
In the end with about three repeats of the entire process, I ended up using a breaker bar in the choke wrench, along with soaking and heat (never over 200 degree's) and a well padded vise on my work bench to finally get it to let go.
I think to be successful, you really need to know when to say "enough" and let it soak for a while longer.
In you case, I would do all of the above and use a quality strap wrench instead of a choke wrench.

As Attila said "Patience is the essential virtue."
 
Before you try any heat or other method that could damage it, try soaking it a good penetrating oil or even in diesel fuel. If by chance it is frozen due to dried out oil or grease, you can soak it in acetone, however you need to seal it up with tinfoil (standing the barrel up in a container) so the acetone doesn't evaporate as fast. Acetone is good at dissolving lots of stuff, plastic, the finish on gun stocks, paint etc.
 
OP,
I've never had a gun with a C-Lect choke so I can't address that specific issue, but I have used PB Blaster on frozen and seized up items with good results. It just requires patience and an easy does it attitude.
 
OP...padded vise to hold barrel JUST below the choke, and a good strap wrench...like the kind that you use to change your oil. If you go the oil wrench type then you will need a breaker bar. Don't get too crazy with pressure though because this is obviously the weak point of the barrel. I will pull mine out of the safe and take pics so you can see what your dealing with inside.
 
Three steps to loosening anything rusted or stuck, perform in this order:

1: Soften or remove corrosion.

2: Apply torque with correct tools.

3: Heat as required *as you apply torque* (does two things: Reinforces (1) above, and also mechanically changes dimensions of the heated metal as it expands faster than the substrate material to which it's adhered either by corrosion or by mechanical friction).

So for the corrosion:

Take a 50/50 mix of Coca-Cola (use the real stuff, not "diet") and diesel fuel, and soak it overnight muzzle down in a cup. The tiny amount of phosphoric acid in the Coke dissolves any rust, and the penetrating qualities of the diesel will get the solution in where it counts. This is an old trick used afloat on boats, and I've found it VERY useful in mechanical work as well. Give it a shot and I'd bet that it'll free up. Give it a 24 hour soak.

Other stuff works too... automatic transmission fluid and acetone, Kroil, PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, a mixture of citric acid and diesel, "pick whatever". Coke and Diesel is pretty gentle and is cheap.

THEN:

Naturally you will need to apply torque using correct tools and a vise, as described above. Wood blocks carved to fit the diameter of the barrel and clamped in a vise if needed, dusted with rosin if needed, etc. Just use good normal mechanical techniques.

And there's no harm in heating it with a torch, either.



"In the end with about three repeats of the entire process, I ended up using a breaker bar in the choke wrench, along with soaking and heat (never over 200 degree's) and a well padded vise on my work bench to finally get it to let go."


The reason you struggled is that 200 degrees of heating didn't do squat. You might as well have stuck it in ice water for all the good that did. You need *heat*, as in "use a propane torch without worry" and "use an oxy-acetelyne torch if you know what you're doing".




Willie

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Here is what you need. A cheap spray bottle (you probably have an empty one laying around). In this bottle mix a 50/50 mix of 100% acetone and dextron/mercron automatic transmission fluid. The two fluids will separate like oil and vinegar so you have to shake the bottle well before spraying.
Stuff works in 15-20 minutes.
 
Know anyone with a sonic cleaning tank? If the barrel comes off and you can get it in a position in the tank so as to not damage the finish, that would help loosen the internal crud that is jamming it up. I've never used on e on a gun, but that method works well with other things like engine parts.
 
I've used Kroil for this very issue. I meant to soak the barrel for a full day, but got got called out of town for three. The barrel was a Remington, and the wrench had a 3/8" recess that accepted a 3/8" drive swing bar that I used as breaker. I applied steady pressure and the choke finally gave up the fight. The barrel was held in a vise, well padded and immobile. I never tried heat or cold on it, but that was next if the Kroil failed me.
 
Another vote for acetone and auto trans fluid.
A totally rusted up black powder revolver responded after letting it soak in this mix for a solid week.
 
stuck c-lect

I have a Mossberg 500 with that type of choke.....bought it back in the 70's....if it was mine...I would take the barrel off - set the barrel muzzle down in a can of oil deep enough to immerse the entire choke body, let it sit for a few days or a week and in all probabibility you will be able to turn it w/o going to extremes.
 
Thanks for all the replies.

This one didn't turn out to be too difficult.

A serious soaking over a couple of days with penetrating oil and a moderate use of force managed the issue.
 
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