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Glock 20 polymer80 pf45 build. Tips?

Discussion in 'Handguns: Autoloaders' started by Sharps403, Feb 9, 2019.

  1. Sharps403

    Sharps403 Member

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    Hey guys, just finished building a glock 20 polymer 80 in 10mm and am encountering some problems maybe some of you have encountered? Sorry if this is long, there's alot to explain. I assembled the lower with the parts provided by polymer 80, that went smooth. Put a ghost guns glock 20 trigger kit into the lower to finish it off, that also went great, of course with tight fitting pins. I put a lone wolf glock 20 threaded stainless slide assembly on the frame and had problems getting That to fit with the front slide rails. After some minor filing and polishing, the rails accepted the slide just fine. But now I'm running into the problems with the trigger resetting, and when I disassemble the pistol, the slide travels forward about an inch then stops. I have to press down on the chamber portion of the barrel to get it to unlock in order to take the slide off. First time owning a glock, and even I know this is not normal haha! I haven't seen guys encountering this issue on any threads or videos I've watched. Any tips?
     
  2. gpb

    gpb Member

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  3. Sharps403

    Sharps403 Member

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  4. Sharps403

    Sharps403 Member

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    Unfortunately the input on that thread did not reflect any of the issues I'm having. Thought I'd at least give it a shot. I got the reset fixed up with an OEM glock trigger spring. But the awkward unconventional take-down technique still looms..
     
  5. crestoncowboy

    crestoncowboy Member

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    The barrel has to move rearward a fraction of an inch because the takedown lever (correct term? ) mates to the barrel slightly via a lip. As soon as the slide retracts and the barrel come out of battery, the lever is free to come down. Then, assuming you removed the magazine, the slide should come off freely in battery.
     
  6. Sharps403

    Sharps403 Member

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    The standard take down procedure your referring to is what I've been trying. That should be the case, but I have to take my thumb over the chamber, press down to disengage the lockup of the barrel from the block, and then and only then will it come off.
     
  7. 460Shooter

    460Shooter Member

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    Have you tried asking this question on Glocktalk, or some other Glock based forum?
     
  8. Sharps403

    Sharps403 Member

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    No, I haven't. I figured glocks are popular and plentiful enough that any firearms forum member might have encountered the same thing.
     
  9. Sharps403

    Sharps403 Member

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    No, I haven't.
     
  10. 10mm Mike

    10mm Mike Member

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    I didn't even know they were making large sized Glock frames. Sorry I don't have any tips to offer, but thanks for the heads up about large frame Glock kits being available.

    edit: I found these kits on MidwayUSA and it looks like you aren't the only one with problems. Sounds like you may need to contact Polymer80 for assitance, based off of what some of the reviewers have said: https://www.midwayusa.com/product/9...me-kit-glock-20sf-21sf-textured-polymer-black
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2019
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  11. Sharps403

    Sharps403 Member

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    Haha, happy to help man. They literally just became available a few weeks ago. Happy building buddy
     
  12. JohnKSa

    JohnKSa Moderator Staff Member

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    Pressing down on the chamber end of the barrel doesn't disengage anything. With the slide even as little as half an inch forward of the normal battery position, the lugs on the barrel are already well forward of the locking block.

    My guess is that the back end of the recoil spring assembly is hanging up on something inside the dustcover and when you press down on the barrel, it moves the recoil spring assembly down as well and that clears it from whatever it's catching on.
     
  13. crestoncowboy

    crestoncowboy Member

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    But pressing down should make anything bind worse against the frame. Makes no sense to me, and I have built quite a few race guns using glock frames. Never an 80% though.

    My only other thought is the slide binding on the frame. Does pushing on down on the rear of the slide also free it up. Or do you have to push directly on the chamber/ locking portion

    Hold the slide lock down and see if you feel the slide hit it? Should be able to tell if that's what is binding

    Also, with the gun fully into battery, try to pull down the slide lock and see if the barrel is engaging it properly. It shouldn't go down.
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2019
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  14. Sharps403

    Sharps403 Member

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    Yeah I have to push down directly over the chamber portion. I relieved the area for the recoil spring plenty wide enough to clear, so that wouldn't be it. Every over method to disassemble it doesn't work, unless I press down on it. Really weird.
     
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