Glock 34 tungston guide rod

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R. Deckard

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I installed a T.H.E. accessories tungston guide rod in my Glock 34 and the slide will not cycle properly. I am shooting reloads (147 grain molycoated bullet with 3.4 grains WST) and have been told I need a lighter recoil spring, but if my reloads function properly with a stock guide rod and stock recoil spring would adding the tungston guide rod make it need a lighter weight spring. Any one have any experience with this?
 
I would actually think the opposite, but lemme tell you in advance that I ain't no smith or armorer. Seems to me that the added weight of the guide rod would in effect cause the slide to cycle faster than normal, as the frame is now more rigid and also more stationary due to the extra mass. I think a heavier spring would be better than a lighter one, but I also think that the easiest fix would probably be to increase the poundage on your magazine springs. Your slide is probably cycling too fast for the mag springs to feed properly. If you get some that can "keep up", your problem might go away.

Remember though, my advice is probably worth exactly what you paid for it. :D

Jason
 
-I installed a T.H.E. accessories tungston guide rod in my Glock 34 and the slide will not cycle properly.

I have heard several respected instructors say that just about the only time they see Glocks fail is when people install after market stuff.

I saw one course description where listed under the stuff to bring was "all the original parts so you can put them back when the ninja crap you put on it fails."

And lastly, if it was cycling properly with the original why would you replace it?

I have 3 Glocks and a hard and fast rule: nothing goes in them except original Glock manufactured parts. If you have hand loads that won't cycle your gun then fix the load, there's nothing wrong with the gun.

Again, just my opinion, no better or worse than any. But, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
 
And lastly, if it was cycling properly with the original why would you replace it?
In his defense, I have seen a Glock fail due to the flange on the end of the plastic guide rod breaking off and jamming up the slide.

That being said, I would go for steel rather than tungsten personally.

R. Deckard, were you able to find any info anywhere else on how to fix this (aside from putting the plastic guide rod back in)?

Jason
 
I have not found a solution to the problem yet. I installed the tungston guide rod because my stock plastic one broke. I wanted the heavy weight tungston to help reduce muzzle flip.
 
How much is a steel guide rod? It'll be lighter than the tungsten, and I bet will fix your stoppages. Of course, I think the mag spring change would achieve the same thing if you wanted to keep the tungsten. You might ask around on that Glocktalk forum.

Jason
 
I don't see how the tungsten rod would make it worse... it should make it cycle better even with the stock spring on there. I had issues with my stock guide rod on my G34, and a glockmiester stainless rod with stock spring fixed it.

Maybe there is something on the rod hanging it up?

the only time they see Glocks fail is when people install after market stuff.
That just isn't true. I have seen numerous reports in which the plastic rods break at the muzzle end. Not to mention that they bend and flex causing added friction.
I know that Glock likes to parade themselves as "perfection", but the fact remains that there is room for improvement.
All 3 of my Glocks have steel rods and aftermarket night sights installed. None of them have ever failed.
 
I've used the T.H.E. extended, uncaptured guid rod on a G-34 and G-17L.

The 34 needed a 15 pound spring for practice ammo, and the standard 17 pounder for hollowpoints.

For some reason my 17L will run fine with a 20 pound recoil spring, go figure. (I use a 17 pounder normally)

Maybe the spring weights aren't exactly the same from brand to brand, or there is some other mechanical factor, it doesn't really matter. Try a 15 pound spring, I always used ISMI flat springs from Custom Glock Racing. They have some tech articles there on spring weights that is very informative.

How far was your brass being ejected with the stock spring? I suspect your load is not the hottest, and they were just getting out of the gun with the stock spring.



My longslides run real smooth with the tungsten, and it seems to reduce recoil as well. Don't tell anyone, but occasionally I use a recoil buffer too. (and a brass slug in the grip, shhhhhh....)
 
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